TRIPOLI 

THE  MYSTERIOUS 


BY 


MABEL  LOOMIS  TODD 
(MRS.  DAVID  TODD) 

Author  of  "Total  Eclipses  of  the  Sun,"  "Corona  and 
Coronet,"  "A  Cycle  of  Sunsets,"  etc. 


•*  ,%  "  >       '"e/>0,      »'?       *';       > 


BOSTON 
SMALL,  MAYNARD  AND  COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 


COPYRIGHT,   191* 
BY  SMALL,  MAYNARD  AND  COMPANY 

(INCORPORATED) 


Entered  at  Stationer?  Hall 


THE    UNIVERSITY    PRESS,  CAMBRIDGE,    U.  S.  A. 


FOREWORD 

The  "  skirmishes  in  Tripoli "  alluded  to  cas- 
ually by  newspapers  in  late  September  of  1911 
soon  developed  into  full-fledged  war  of  inter- 
national significance. 

To  an  English  friend  resident  there,  the  first 
intimation  of  trouble  came  in  the  early  morn- 
ing of  September  26,  when,  from  his  summer 
residence  at  Shara  Shat,  he  and  his  family  saw 
unexpectedly  arrive  in  the  harbour  a  two-fun- 
neled  steamer  (Derna),  laden  with  arms  and 
ammunition  which  she  began  at  once  to 
discharge. 

Next  day  his  little  daughter,  attending  an 
Italian  school  in  the  city,  heard  a  sudden  com- 
motion with  much  loud  talking,  in  the  midst 
of  which  the  Italian  cavasse  and  one  of  the 
Consulate  staff  came  into  the  school-room, 
counseling  immediate  departure  of  mistresses 
and  children,  most  of  whom  embarked  at  once 
on  the  Hercules. 

During  the  latter  part  of  that  afternoon  a 
three-funneled  battleship  arrived,  her  stately 
approach  watched  with  much  excitement  by 


250642 


FOREWORD 

all  the  inhabitants ;  Turkish  officers  and  Arabs, 
however,  expressing  the  utmost  confidence  that 
the  Italian  reception  would  be  both  warm  and 
brief. 

The  Hercules,  filled  from  stem  to  stern  with 
Italian  subjects,  sailed  next  day;  and,  late  on 
September  28,  thirteen  battleships  came  into 
the  harbour,  one  after  the  other,  in  stately  line, 
each  proudly  flying  the  Italian  flag,  and  all 
brought  into  spectacular  relief  by  brilliant 
African  sunshine  lighting  the  magnificent  array 
with  its  level  westering  beams.  The  sight 
created  a  profound  impression,  not  only  upon 
native  and  Turkish  inhabitants,  but  upon  the 
few  remaining  Europeans  as  well. 

Next  day  the  Turkish  soldiers  retired  to 
Boumilliana;  during  the  following,  a  sort  of 
panic  ensued  among  the  Maltese,  who  rushed 
en  masse  on  board  the  Castle  garth,  —  loading 
esparto  in  the  roadstead,  —  and  thenceforth 
disappeared  from  the  scene.  On  October  i 
Italians  cut  the  cable,  about  three  miles  from 
shore. 

Naturally  these  swift  events  produced  the 
greatest  excitement;  consular  meetings  were 
held  night  and  day  at  all  hours,  advising  and 
counseling  the  Governor-General,  and  Arif 

vi 


FOREWORD 

Bey,  political  agent ;  but  long  parleying  finally 
exhausted  the  Italian  Admiral's  patience,  and 
October  3  notice  was  given  to  all  Consuls  that 
bombardment  would  take  place  at  noon.  Many 
trying  even  then  to  flee  found  that  Arab  boat- 
men had  drawn  their  craft  up  on  shore,  and 
refused  to  take  any  one  off  to  any  steamer. 

The  wife  of  our  friend,  who  kept  an  in- 
teresting diary  of  these  thrilling  events,  writes 
that  thereupon  "  a  panic  ensued,  people  rush- 
ing about  the  streets  as  though  they  had  lost 
their  senses."  Many  sought  refuge  in  their 
house,  —  Netherlands  subjects,  Arabs,  Turks, 
Greeks,  indiscriminately,  until  courtyard,  gal- 
lery and  rooms  could  hold  no  more. 

When  bombardment  finally  began  the  noise 
was  terrific,  houses  shaking  as  if  in  earthquake, 
refugees  crying  with  grief  and  terror.  Our 
English  friends,  however,  were  not  daunted, 
and  going  to  the  Telegraph  Company's  house 
on  the  water  front,  they  obtained  from  its  bal- 
cony a  superb  view,  remaining  until  a  shell 
dropped  into  the  sea  about  twenty  yards  away, 
shrapnel  began  to  burst  all  around  and  break 
over  them,  and  it  seemed  prudent  to  retreat 
to  the  kiosk  on  their  own  roof  terrace,  — 
slightly  more  protected,  but  still  offering  a 

vii 


FOREWORD 

splendid  prospect.  At  six  o'clock  firing  ceased, 
when,  gathering  up  the  bits  of  fallen  shrapnel 
(not  less  than  twenty  pounds),  they  retired  to 
their  populous  rooms  below. 

The  following  day  fire  was  opened  upon 
Shara  Shat  with  an  awful  roar  of  shells  trav- 
eling through  the  air,  followed  by  the  terrific 
vibration  of  their  bursting.  A  mistake  of  the 
Shara  Shat  fort  in  firing  upon  a  torpedo  boat 
supposedly  flying  a  white  flag  was  the  imme- 
diate cause  of  this  second  fusillade,  which 
ceased  upon  explanation  —  but  not  until  the 
country  house  was  partially  demolished.  In 
the  following  weeks  it  was  completely  looted 
and  left  open  to  all  the  winds  of  heaven. 

During  this  day  the  gens  d'armes  and  police 
who  had  been  on  guard  were  withdrawn,  and 
there  was  much  apprehension  that  the  city 
would  be  overwhelmed  by  the  onrushing 
Arabs.  Hassuna  Pasha,  the  Mayor,  a  Prince 
of  the  famous  Caramanlis,  however,  himself 
patrolled  the  town  all  night  on  horseback,  with 
a  few  police,  keeping  at  bay  the  oncoming 
hordes.  Rifle  shots  and  shouts  kept  sleep  from 
every  house. 

On  October  5  a  white  sheet  was  hoisted  on 
the  Castle  flagstaff,  the  Italians  landed,  and 

viii 


FOREWORD 

soon  it  was  replaced  by  a  large  flag  of  their 
country.  Safety  returned  to  the  harassed  in- 
habitants, and  the  city  was  soon  being  regu- 
larly patrolled  by  marines. 

Later,  when  Italians  blew  up  the  Gil  Gursh 
fort,  the  city  shook  to  its  foundations  and  our 
friend's  fine  collection  of  Roman  antiquities 
was  strewn  in  fragments  on  the  floor.  By  the 
end  of  October  cholera  had  broken  out,  which 
added  new  terror  and  confusion.  Mosques 
were  filled  with  poor  Arabs  from  the  oasis, 
ordered  evacuated  by  General  Caneva,  the 
Governor.  Dead  bodies  were  picked  up  by 
carts  at  morning  and  evening  and  carried 
away  for  burial. 

A  heavy  fight  occurred  November  10,  a  day 
also  memorable  for  the  appearance  of  a  great 
yellow  balloon  carrying  two  Italian  officers 
making  observations.  Next  day  the  Italian 
King's  birthday  was  celebrated  by  salutes, 
"  dressed "  ship,  a  shell  or  two  whizzing 
through  the  air,  and  an  official  reception. 

The  new  year  saw  more  battles,  and  a  vast 
change  in  the  sleepy  Tripoli  of  our  memory. 
Italian  soldiers  now  fill  the  streets ;  horses,  car- 
riages, motor  cars  (with  no  speed  limit!),  offi- 
cers on  horseback,  and  all  the  accompaniments 

ix 


FOREWORD 

of  modern  seaport  life  have  completely  changed 
the  old  dream-city,  now  forever  of  the  past. 

No  more  at  twilight  are  Arabs  sitting  in  the 
sand  against  mosque  walls  like  a  line  of  ghosts 
in  the  still  evening,  waiting  for  the  call  to 
prayer.  The  "  gate  of  slaves,"  one  of  Tripoli's 
ancient  names,  will  never  more  open  its  por- 
tals for  that  picturesque  if  ungodly  trade; 
dwellers  in  Ghadames,  making  business  to  the 
heart  of  Ethiopia  all  their  own,  and  allied 
with  the  fanatical  Tuaregs,  those  unconquer- 
able "pirates  of  the  Sahara,"  will  have  new 
laws  to  consider. 

But  in  dreaming  upon  the  delicious,  sleepy 
days  of  past  years,  the  cordial  faces  of  many 
friends  beam  from  the  white  city's  every  arch- 
way and  patio,  smile  upon  us  from  roof  and 
garden  —  even  from  dusky  mosque  and  heaven- 
ascending  minaret. 

To  them  all,  loved  and  remembered,  English, 
Turkish,  Italian,  French,  Arab  —  I  dedicate  my 
little  story  of  the  now  vanished  life  we  knew 
together,  affectionately  theirs  as  well  as  mine. 

M.  L.  T. 

OBSERVATORY  HOUSE, 

AMHERST,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

March,  1912. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I     INTRODUCTORY i 

II  TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS     .     .     .    ,«  5 

III  AN  ECLIPSE  TRIP  TO  TRIPOLI    .     .  •*  • »  8 

IV  ARRIVAL 14 

V  THOROUGHFARES    .    /»(    »    %    *    .     .  18 

VI  A  LITTLE  HISTORY     .     .     .     t    ;.     t  32 

VII  TRIPOLI  AND  THE  UNITED  STATES    .     .  39 

VIII  THE  PASHA'S  CASTLE 43 

IX  INHABITANTS,  OCCUPATIONS,  SCHOOLS  .  47 

X  THE  BRITISH  CONSULATE-GENERAL      .  55 
XI  THE  ROMAN  ARCH  AND  ANCIENT  RE- 
MAINS        67 

XII  To  THE  CAVES  ........  74 

XIII  WELLS  AND  GARDENS       ..."..  80 

XIV  HAREMS  AND  COURTYARDS    .     .     .     .  87 
XV  ARAB  WEDDINGS  .     .     .     ...     .  92 

XVI  WEDDING  PRELIMINARIES     .     .     .     .:  103 

XVII  ANOTHER  MOHAMMEDAN  WEDDING     .  108 

XVIII  A  JEWISH-ARAB  WEDDING    .     .     .     .  113 

XIX  THE  ECLIPSE  OF  1900      .     .     .    ;,,     .  119 

XX     PIANURA  MARKET 129 


Xll 

CHAPTER 

XXI 

XXII 

XXIII 

XXIV 

XXV 

XXVI 

XXVII 

XXVIII 

XXIX 

XXX 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS 


PAGE 

'34 
141 

146 


BREAD  MARKET  AND  CARAVANS  . 
Music  AND  MUSICIANS  .... 
TURKISH  EXILES  AND  OTHERS 

MOSQUES 153 

FUNERALS 162 

AN  ARAB  LUNCHEON 167 

ECLIPSE  PREPARATIONS 174 

THE  ECLIPSE  OF  1905 182 

THE  DESERT 195 

B'  SALAAM  A  .  202 


INDEX 209 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

This  enthralling  though  tragic  coast  of  northern 

Africa Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Italian  pharmacy 4 

Compulsory  service  in  the  Turkish  army  ....  6 
Near   neighbor   to   countless    sand-blown    ruins  12 
One's  first  walk  is  a  revelation  of  Oriental  possi- 
bilities      18 

The  two-wheeled  araba  was  a  very  gay  little  cart  .  22 

Pale  blue-wash  tinted  many  of  the  arches     ...  24 
A    great    rallying-point  .  .  .  was    the    Turkish 

fountain *   .   ., 26 

Some    vague    feeling    for    European    boulevard 

effects .'...-,   .   .  28 

From  the  roof  of  the  French  Consulate     ....  32 

Tajura *.....  34 

Camels  bathing  .   .   .    .   .   ...   .   .  ..,  ....  38 

Houses  were  shown  me  where  the  captives  were 

confined 40 

Drill  of  Arab  regiment *  -  42 

His  Excellency  Redjed  Pasha,  former  Governor 

of  Tripoli 44 

Turkish  and  Arab  celebration      .   .   .   .   •   .   .    .  46 

Inky  Sudanese  abounded      48 

A  Turkish  school  for  boys 50 

xiii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 


Bellows  .  .  .  exactly  like  those  in  use  for  centuries      52 
Sandstone  steps  worn  into  hollows  by  the  feet  of 

a  hundred  and  fifty  years 56 

The  seventeen-domed  mosque  stood  out  whitely, 

even  in  that  city  of  whiteness 64 

The    most    superb    relic  ...  is    the    four-sided 

triumphal  arch 68 

The  ruins  of  Leptis  Magna 72 

Into  the  sand  of  the  "Tunis  road"  we  plunged    .       74 
a.  Marabout  and  palm.     b.  One  of  the  caves  at 

Ghirgarish 76 

Some  of  the  caves  of  natural  origin,  others  .  .  .  old 

quarries 78 

Every  garden  had  its  well 80 

Lanes  and  roads  leading  out  of  the  city     ....       84 

Returning  sunset  drives 86 

Many  of  the  harem  courtyards  were  well-paved,  ^ 

the  wainscot  also  of  handsome  tiles 88 

Sudanese  village,  Tripoli  across  the  bay    ....       90 
Street  of  arcades,  Castle  in  background     ....       94 

Sudanese  hut 102 

All  the  instruments  were  in  readiness  on  the  Con- 
sulate roof-terrace 118 

A  telegram  from  Georgia 120 

The  tiny  crescents  revealed  by  its  foliage  during 

the  partial  eclipse 122 

a.  An  anxious  mother,    b.  Straw  covers  .  .  .  pro- 
tection to  the  precious  cus-cus 130 

a.  Camel  laden  with  esparto  grass,    b.  By  noon 

the  crowd  disperses      132 

Bread  market 134 

xiv 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Word  came  .  .  .  that  about  three  hundred  men 

and  camels  were  just  ready  for  departure  .  .  138 
a.  Bales  still  covered  the  ground,  b.  The  leader, 

a  racing  camel  with  high  Tuareg  saddle  ...  140 

An  inflated  skin  with  primitive  mouthpiece  ...  142 

Taking  her  station  against  some  white  wall  ...  144 
The  Pasha  confessed  that  he  was  deeply  curious 

about  the  telescopes 146 

One  of  these  .  .  .  was  still  trying  to  find  out  why 

he  was  exiled 148 

...  his  chaotic  house,  full  of  curios 150 

From  any  roof  terrace  in  Tripoli  a  dozen  minarets 

could  be  seen 152 

Where  constantly  sat  a  melancholy  leper,  awaiting 

possible  alms 154 

Several  imposing  officers  with  yards  of  sword  .  .  158 
Two  domes  on  the  headland,  conspicuous  as  the^ 

harbour  is  entered 162 

d.  In  the  garden,  Shara  Shat.  b.  On  the  gallery  164 

A  homeward  ambling  camel 172 

a.  Eclipse  preparations,  b.  A  spectral  array 

...  set  to  catch  a  shadow  ..,„....  174 

Etim  Bey,  a  Turkish  exile  1  .  .  .' 182 

The  fine  Gurgeh  minaret  .  .  .  was  filled  with 

white-robed  Moslems,  gazing  skyward  ...  188 

Evenly  developed  all  around 192 

A  string  of  camels  moved  off  across  the  illimitable 

sand 196 

A  well  of  sweet  water  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  .  198 

The  sunset  glowed  and  burned 200 

Upward-springing  minarets  ....  V  «...  202 

Once  more  I  shall  see  that  noble  bay 204 

xv 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 


INTRODUCTORY 

Properly  to  write  the  wonderful  story  of 
Tripoli,  daughter  of  sea  and  desert,  one  must 
be  not  only  an  accomplished  historian,  a  cul- 
tivated archaeologist  and  an  expert  in  ethnol- 
ogy, but  profoundly  versed  in  Arabic  and  in 
the  fundamental  beliefs  and  general  practices 
of  Mohammedanism,  as  well  as  the  local  cus- 
toms of  that  great  religion,  coloured  as  it  is 
by  differing  environment.  If  one  aims  to  give 
a  clear  exposition  of  this  enthralling  though 
tragic  coast  of  northern  Africa,  he  must  be 
a  thorough  student  of  political  economy,  too, 
with  a  world  outlook  on  cause  and  effect  in 
government. 

Tripoli  of  the  West  enjoys  the  protection 
of  a  natural  rocky  breakwater,  obvious  proof 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

that  a  city  has  always  been  there,  ever  since 
the  earliest  voyages  of  Phoenician  navigators. 
Conquered  by  Rome,  and  held  in  splendid  pros- 
perity until  the  seventh  century  of  our  era, 
inundated  by  Moslems,  prey  of  Vandals,  cap- 
tured by  Charles  V,  ruled  by  native  Pashas, 
seized  by  Turkey,  bombarded  by  Italy  —  who 
has  the  ethical  right  to  Tripoli  to-day? 

The  exciting  events  of  1911  have  directed 
more  popular  attention  to  Tripoli  than  she  had 
enjoyed  for  over  a  century.  She  will  never 
be  wholly  forgotten  again.  Why  the  fasci- 
nating oriental  city  had  been  so  ignored  is 
difficult  to  see;  but  repeated  visits  there  for 
astronomical  purposes  had  revealed  a  charm 
of  living  and  a  wealth  of  history  that  years 
of  study  and  observation  could  not  exhaust. 

Among  the  most  scholarly  men  in  Tripoli 
were  certain  Jewish  rabbis  whose  minds  were 
storehouses  of  information.  As  they  spoke 
only  Hebrew  I  conversed  with  them  through 
interpreters,  but  a  rich  field  of  investigation 
here  awaits  translation  to  the  general  student. 


INTRODUCTORY 

If  we  of  the  English-writing  world  are  able 
to  speak  French  and  German  fairly  well,  we 
feel  more  or  less  equipped  for  cosmopolitan 
living;  with  a  smattering  of  Spanish  and 
Italian  in  addition  we  are  thought  unusual  lin- 
guists, quite  competent  to  conquer  the  world. 
But  what  of  the  other  well-nigh  countless 
tongues  of  millions. 

Even  the  small  boys  of  Tripoli's  narrow 
streets  can  use  interchangeably  all  the  lan- 
guages current  there.  Americans  would  be 
quite  at  sea  in  that  whirlwind  of  dialect. 

A  daughter  of  the  Consul-General  of  Great 
Britain  illustrated  the  true  cosmopolitan,  at 
home  in  the  world  at  large:  many  an  after- 
noon have  I  seen  her  dispensing  tea  to  half 
a  dozen  nationalities,  addressing  each  in  his 
own  language,  turning  instantly  and  gracefully 
from  one  to  another  with  English,  French, 
Turkish,  Italian,  Arabic,  modern  Greek,  Mal- 
tese—  on  the  tip  of  her  clever  and  fluent 
tongue. 

Only  by  such  versatility  and  flexibility  of 
3 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

make-up  can  one  cope  with  the  endless  and  com- 
plicated problems  of  such  a  racial  composite. 

In  view  of  the  far-reaching  nature  of  Tripoli 
and  her  story,  I  will  only  add  that  this  book 
does  not  even  touch  upon  a  thousand  and  one 
delightful  aspects  of  the  white  city  which 
might  be  brought  out.  In  spite  of  months  of 
residence  there  and  constant  eagerness  for  all 
its  enchanting  phases,  I  bring  only  an  incom- 
plete picture  of  the  extraordinary  region  as 
I  saw  it,  though  drawn  with  a  loving  and  ap- 
preciative hand. 


»<    <  <    '<•'.•<• ' ;  *     '   .'. 

.«'«.*•'»••• 


II 

TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 

With  her  feet  in  the  blue  Mediterranean, 
"her  head  in  the  fire  of  heaven"  and  her 
back  against  the  yellow  silence  of  eternal 
Sahara,  Tripoli  waits  her  latest  destiny. 

However  diplomatic  complications  may  be 
solved,  lethargic,  oriental,  half-mediaeval  Trip- 
oli will  be  no  more.  The  old  walled  city  of 
Roman,  Arab  and  Turk  must  awake  at  last 
and  take  her  place  in  the  procession  of  the 
modern  world. 

For  years  hinted  foreboding  and  prophecies 
of  change  were  quietly  pervasive.  While  much 
of  its  trade  was  in  the  hands  of  Jews  and 
Maltese,  Italy,  having  other  large  interests  in 
the  region,  had  practically  absorbed  the  ship- 
ping. "  Sometime  Tripoli  will  be  Italian  "  was 
whispered  in  many  tongues. 

'5 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Compulsory  service  in  the  Turkish  army 
was  not  wholly  to  the  liking  of  independent 
native  tribes,  and  despite  faith  in  one  prophet, 
a  sort  of  watchful  neutrality  characterized  the 
Arabs,  perhaps  even  more  marked  than  in 
usual  relations  of  the  conquered  to  their  "  pro- 
tectors." At  all  events  a  certain  restlessness 
was  obvious  among  Maltese,  Italians,  even  in 
calmer  sons  of  the  desert,  and  no  one  who 
knew  Tripoli  city  could  have  been  surprised 
at  the  seemingly  sudden  coup  d'etat  of  her 
nearest  European  neighbor. 

One  of  the  last  regions  in  this  over-traveled 
world  not  only  unswamped,  but  even  unno- 
ticed by  tourists,  the  old  Tripoli  of  Punic  and 
Roman  days  and  of  later  Mohammedan 
supremacy  can  never  again  retreat  into  the 
obscurity  of  centuries. 

It  has  been  said  that  Tripoli  stands  as  a 
sort  of  buffer  between  Tunis  and  Egypt.  Both 
France  and  England  would  seem  to  have 
looked  indifferently  upon  her  unproductive 
wastes;  but  the  position  of  Italy,  alive  to  her 

6 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

value,  is  somewhat  different,  and  in  the  eyes 
of  many  careful  observers  it  has  been  consid- 
ered the  European  power  most  likely  some- 
time to  conquer  and  govern  the  desert  prov- 
ince. Rome  once  reigned  supreme  over  north- 
ern Africa.  Why  not  claim  again  a  part  of 
her  early  heritage?  Natural  outlet  for  the 
wealth  of  Africa,  Tripoli  might  be  made  a 
place  of  especial  importance  in  judicious  hands. 

The  battles  of  1911  seem  almost  contradic- 
tory when  we  consider  that  Mohammedans  are 
fatalists :  all  Arabs  say  "  Fate  is  irrevocable, 
and  to  oppose  destiny  is  sacrilege."  Perhaps, 
however,  the  Tripolitan  mind  was  not  wholly 
certain  as  to  just  what  constituted  its  decreed 
destiny. 

More  picturesque  under  Ottoman  rule  than 
it  can  ever  be  again,  —  dreamy,  dirty,  sor- 
did, exquisite,  noisy,  enthralling,  beautiful, 
unsanitary,  —  the  strange  city  gripped  one's 
affections.  Into  the  heart  it  came  to  stay. 


Ill 

AN  ECLIPSE  TRIP  TO  TRIPOLI 

Twice  the  alliterative  delight  of  "  an  eclipse 
trip  to  Tripoli "  has  been  ours.  In  May  of 
1900  the  sun's  anticipated  darkening  brought 
us  to  those  dazzling  shores;  and  again  in 
August,  1905,  by  a  coincidence  unique  in  as- 
tronomical annals,  another  eclipse  track  crossed 
the  former  one  exactly  over  the  same  popu- 
lous city.  Knowing  its  limpid  skies  and  free- 
dom from  cloud,  the  Astronomer  and  his  reti- 
nue once  more  set  forth  for  this  far  shore. 

If  "  science  acquaints  us  with  strange  bed- 
ifellows,"  eclipse  paths  are  responsible  for  en- 
ticing their  followers  into  remote  and  untrav- 
eled  ways  which  are  extremely  likely  to  prove 
mines  of  heretofore  unsuspected  wealth,  in 
landscape,  ethnology,  picturesque  history  and 
customs,  and  all  the  charm  of  unspoiled 
humanity. 

8 


AN   ECLIPSE   TRIP   TO   TRIPOLI 

This  was  emphatically  true  of  Tripoli,  Tra- 
blus  el-Gharb  (Tripoli  of  the  West),  that 
famous  Oea  of  the  ancients,  whose  long  and 
troubled  history  began  in  the  mists  of  Phoeni- 
cian founding,  ran  through  the  splendid  period 
of  Roman  rule,  saw  all  its  previous  glory 
wiped  out  and  rendered  naught  after  the  Hejira 
in  A.  D.  622,  when  Islam  overran  the  whole 
North  African  coast  like  an  irresistible  tidal 
wave,  and  in  1835  reduced  it  to  the  fate  of 
a  Turkish  vilayet.  All  the  charm  of  all  these 
varied  fates  hung  about  its  narrow  streets, 
impassive  white  walls,  arcaded  thoroughfares, 
headless  statues  and  whitewashed  tiles,  its 
bubbling  domes  and  sky-piercing  minarets. 

The  advent  of  an  astronomer  and  his  ap- 
paratus had  excited  more  intense  interest  than 
Arab  imperturbability  would  allow  to  become 
apparent.  That  he  had  come  across  far  seas 
for  an  eclipse,  whatever  that  might  be,  was 
an  event  of  amazing  import. 

During  my  frequent  visits  to  harems  I 
heard  much  speculation,  curiosity,  and  not  a 

9 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

little  fear  expressed,  as  to  some  event  ap- 
proaching both  strange  and  portentous.  An 
old  man  near  the  sea-gate  gave  out  that  he 
retained  a  memory  of  such  an  occurrence 
years  before.  But  that  darkening  was  made 
by  Allah.  Of  this  new  kind,  produced  by  a 
kafir,  he  could  know  nothing,  nor  ought  it  to 
be  countenanced.  Others  scouted  the  idea  that 
a  kafir  could  accomplish  it. 

While  Arabs  were  among  the  first  to  tell  the 
world  of  astronomy,  this  science  seems  prac- 
tically unknown  to  the  inhabitants  of  Barbary, 
who  cannot  calculate  eclipses,  and  believe  they 
always  bring  or  foretell  evil.  In  some  quar- 
ters of  the  city  it  was  asserted  that  enormous 
balloons  had  been  brought  as  essential  parts 
of  the  outfit,  and  that  when  the  appointed  day 
should  come,  the  Astronomer  would  ascend 
straight  into  the  "eye  of  the  sun,"  there  to 
discharge  five  hundred  pounds'  worth  (ster- 
ling) of  spirits  of  wine,  which  in  evaporating 
would  cause  thick  darkness  and  eclipse.  Some 
of  the  more  intelligent  having  been  asked  to 

10 


AN   ECLIPSE   TRIP   TO   TRIPOLI 

draw  the  corona,  replied  that  it  was  forbidden 
to  gaze  upon  such  a  thing,  much  less  attempt 
to  depict  it,  and  would  be  followed  by  certain 
disaster. 

On  our  second  visit,  wonder  and  suspicion 
had  changed  to  friendliness,  and  no  evil  was 
prophesied  from  our  manipulation  of  the 
heavens. 

iAs  before,  by  courtesy  of  H.M.  repre- 
sentative, the  Astronomer  had  established  his 
observing  station  on  the  roof-terrace  of  the 
British  Consulate-General,  soon  again  popu- 
larly known  as  the  "  royal  observatory,"  where 
telescopic  groves  grew  apace,  to  the  wonder- 
ment of  upward-gazing  multitudes  from  lower 
roofs. 

But  the  whole  region  was  pregnant  with 
absorbing  interest,  quite  detached  from  as- 
tronomy; and  while  my  husband  was  con- 
stantly engaged  with  his  apparatus  and  eclipse 
preparation,  in  the  intervals  of  such  minor  aid 
as  I  might  render  in  the  preparations,  I  found 
every  moment  occupied. 

ii 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

With  the  blue  sea,  sands  and  city  dazzling 
white,  Arabs  and  Bedouins  baffling  and  mys- 
terious, relics  steeped  in  half-forgotten  his- 
tory, every  fallen  stone  full  of  suggestion, 
near  neighbour  to  countless  sand-blown  ruins, 
each  with  its  dumb  story  awaiting  interpre- 
tation, Tripoli  offered  unimagined  material  to 
artist,  archaeologist  and  historian,  as  well  as 
to  delvers  into  racial  problems,  and  linguistic 
students  of  many  dialects. 

To  revisit  any  spot  once  loved  and  deserted 
has  been  called  by  Lafcadio  Hearn  a  danger- 
ous experiment.  But  our  return  to  these  fair 
shores  did  not  disenchant.  Potent  even  in 
absence,  the  fascination  only  increased  as  the 
sight  of  her  sunny  whiteness  grew  again  into 
actual  vision,  and  became  one  with  memory. 

And  now  again  the  story  of  Tripoli  changes. 
But  whatever  the  outcome,  she  will  have  still 
her  limpid  skies,  her  air  like  wine,  and  a  cli- 
mate where  it  is  a  sin  to  acknowledge  an  ache 
or  a  pain,  old  age  or  unhappiness.  The  charm 
of  Orient  and  Islam  may  be  less;  but  I  can 

12 


AN    ECLIPSE   TRIP   TO    TRIPOLI 

never  cease  to  be  grateful  that  I  knew  Tripoli 
in  the  days  when  to  breathe  her  atmosphere 
and  revel  in  her  sunshine  meant  joy,  not 
only,  but  when  crowding  nationalities,  Babel 
tongues,  mediaeval  streets,  brought  such  vivify- 
ing interest  that  all  the  years  thereafter  have 
been  richer,  more  satisfying,  and  fuller  of  the 
intoxicating  wine  of  life. 


IV 

ARRIVAL 

In  childhood  we  all  learned  the  "  four  Bar- 
bary  States,  —  Morocco,  Algeria,  Tunis  and 
Tripoli/'  Perhaps  in  after  years  some  of  the 
little  pupils  who  recited  that  list  so  glibly  may 
have  seen  Morocco  or  Algiers,  perhaps  even 
Tunis;  but  it  is  safe  to  say  that  few  ever 
saw  Tripoli,  to  other  lands  a  name  only  for 
many  generations. 

The  province  of  Tripoli  contains  practically 
everything  for  eight  hundred  miles  between 
Djerba  and  Tobrook,  from  Tunis  to  Egypt, 
and  southward  to  Fezzan,  the  town  of  Gha- 
dames  and  the  oasis  of  Ghat.  The  island  of 
Djerba  was  the  scene  of  terrible  conflict  be- 
tween Moors  and  Spaniards  during  the  Sara- 
cenic wars  of  the  Middle  Ages.  There  are 
traces  upon  the  north  coast  of  a  pyramid  built 

14 


ARRIVAL 

of  the  skulls  of  Christians,  as  a  warning  not 
to  attempt  another  subjugation  of  the  island. 

Methods  of  reaching  Tripoli  are  leisurely. 
From  Naples  a  line  of  comfortable  Italian 
steamers  runs  to  Messina,  and  down  the  beau- 
tiful coast  of  Sicily,  with  unhurried  stops  at 
Catania  and  Syracuse,  thence  across  to  Malta, 
where  one  has  hours  for  Valetta  and  its  sub- 
urbs. Early  morning  arrival  in  the  sparkling 
harbour  of  Tripoli  was  an  almost  theatrical 
vision  of  strange  craft  flying  Greek,  Turkish, 
Italian,  French  flags,  and  small  native  boats, 
fishermen,  sponge-divers  and  all  the  curious 
life  of  a  peculiarly  non-European  community. 

Another  route  to  the  same  bourne  is  by 
French  steamer  from  Marseilles  to  Tunis. 
Full  of  interest  in  itself,  this  French-Arab  city, 
glowing  and  enticing  on  the  far  shores  of  its 
salt  lagoon,  is  actually  less  vital  with  all  its 
abounding  life  than  the  near-by  site  of  ancient 
Carthage  alive  with  memory.  Over  the 
wrecked  beauty  and  splendour  buried  in  the 
yellow  earth,  a  gleaming  little  Arab  village 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

lies  asleep  in  the  sun,  prone  upon  the  hillside. 
From  Carthage  eastward  along  the  curving 
coast-line,  the  steamer  stops  at  Mehdia,  Sousse, 
Sfax,  Gabes,  full  of  superb  relics;  dim  Afri- 
can mountains  brood,  a  swarming  Moslem  life 
fills  pier  and  promontory,  until  all  is  crowned 
at  last  by  the  white  flash  of  Tripoli,  dazzling 
in  hot  sunshine  —  the  ideal  Africa  of  one's 
imagination. 

Many  Arabian  authors  have  described  this 
ancient  city  from  the  sea  with  all  the  wealth 
of  fancy  and  richness  of  imagery  they  knew 
so  well.  But  the  beauty  of  that  spectacle 
could  not  have  been  exaggerated. 

The  old  wall,  the  Pasha's  Castle,  the  ex- 
quisite rounded  mosques,  many  a  minaret  hold- 
ing aloft  its  golden  pinnacles  and  crescent, 
feathery  palms,  a  green  band  separating  sea 
from  sand  dunes  and  desert,  and  two  lovely 
domed  tombs  standing  alone  on  a  little  point, 
all  made  a  vision  of  ethereal  loveliness.  The 
ancient  lighthouse  seemed  not  an  extraneous 
structure,  but  an  integral  part  of  the  tide- 

16 


ARRIVAL 

washed  rocks  from  which  it  grew;  and  be- 
yond, in  the  city,  flags  of  many  countries 
seemed  keeping  perpetual  holiday.  Above  the 
official  residence  of  the  British  Consul-Gen- 
eral  the  national  emblem  waved  silent  wel- 
come, only  next  in  affection  to  the  stars  and 
stripes  which  nowhere  appeared.  Oriental, 
mediaeval,  picturesque,  unthought  of  by  the 
traveler,  unvisited  by  the  tourist,  Tripoli 
seemed  left  behind  in  the  breathless  rush  of 
modern  life. 

The  whole  impression  of  a  first  arrival 
soon  became  separated  into  component  parts. 
Greek  sponge  boats,  hauled  up  high  and  dry 
on  the  beach  for  repairs,  the  sea-gate  (Bab  el- 
Bahr)  open  for  the  day,  Turkish  officials  idling 
and  smoking  on  benches,  Greek  sailors  pulling 
at  narghiles,  Arabs  taking  cups  of  black  coffee 
in  a  dozen  corners  —  sharp  contrasts  filled  this 
strange,  fascinating  city  of  the  prophet. 


V 
THOROUGHFARES 

One's  first  walk  is  a  revelation  of  oriental 
possibilities. 

"Balik!  Balik!"  One  jumps  aside  at  the 
sudden,  harsh  cry;  and  a  tiny,  overloaded 
donkey  trots  by  patiently,  its  little  hoofs  sound- 
less on  the  white  and  powdery  street.  Gen- 
erally weighed  down  with  grass  panniers  hold- 
ing huge  earthern-ware  water-jars,  often  the 
carcass  of  a  sheep  or  lamb,  and  perhaps  his 
owner  in  addition  (sitting,  however,  mercifully 
well  back  upon  the  little  animal's  haunches, 
unless  he  is  walking  behind,  the  better  to  goad 
the  hurrying  flanks),  countless  numbers  of  the 
pathetic  little  beasts  trot  eagerly  along,  help- 
less ears  wagging  to  and  fro,  always  humble, 
always  sad,  with  woes  which  never  rise  to  the 
dignity  of  genuine  sorrows. 

But  no  warning  shout  gives  notice  of  the 
18 


.T5 

'i 

a 


THOROUGHFARES 

camel's  stealthy  approach.  His  padded  feet 
move  on  like  fate.  No  other  traveler  has  any 
rights  which  he  is  bound  to  respect,  and  a 
scornful  face  with  indescribably  contemptuous 
and  curling  under  lip  may  be  thrust  over  one's 
very  shoulder  from  the  rear,  without  other 
notice  than  his  unannounced  proximity. 

For  many  reasons,  indeed,  one  must  be  wary 
in  the  narrow  streets.  It  is  the  pedestrian's 
own  fault  if  donkeys,  goats,  camels  or  the 
occasional  two-wheeled,  canopied  araba  run 
him  down.  Caution  is  soon  learned.  After 
all,  the  camel  does  not  seem  to  feel  the  same 
lively  enmity  to  Caucasians  so  openly  evinced 
by  the  sinister  water  buffalo  of  the  Philip- 
pines. His  lofty  hauteur  is  too  great  to  admit 
so  personal  a  sensation  as  dislike. 

And  he  has  a  variety  of  voices. 

During  one  of  my  first  nights  in  the  white 
city,  when  awakened  by  a  prolonged  and 
screaming  cry,  I  thought  sleepily  of  a  loco- 
motive in  trouble.  A  slight  accession  of  con- 
sciousness showed  the  impossibility  of  hearing 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
railway  sounds  through  several  hundred  miles : 
it  was  merely  the  night  call  of  the  domesti- 
cated camel,  trumpeting  his  perennial  discon- 
tent to  some  fellow  sufferer;  or  perchance 
dreaming  of  free,  windblown  desert  spaces, 
no  more  home  for  his  longing  feet.  With  Kip- 
ling we  came  to  feel  that  — 

"  'E  's  a  devil  an'  a'  ostrich  an'  a*  orphan  child  in  one." 

In  the  narrow  thoroughfares  he  passes  with 
infinite  disdain;  but  in  one  wide-open  room, 
with  its  arched  ceiling,  another  camel,  blinded 
by  oval  baskets  tied  over  his  eyes,  used  to 
tread  his  monotonous  round  year  after  year, 
grinding  corn  between  upper  and  nether  mill- 
stones. Centuries  of  habit  lay  behind  the 
primitive  appliances. 

Slightly  at  one  side  of  the  thronging  high- 
ways, in  corners  and  niches  here  and  there,  a 
bundle  of  rags  appeared  to  have  been  thrown, 
carelessly;  to  one's  surprise  these  huddled 
masses  once  in  a  while  sat  up,  peacefully  ad- 
justed themselves,  and  stalked  away,  dignified, 

20 


THOROUGHFARES 

fully  dressed  Arabs.  The  barracan,  indeed,  is 
apt  to  be  costume  by  day,  bed,  pillow  and 
cover  by  night. 

The  chorus  of  street  cries  was  singularly 
varied.  Potatoes,  oranges,  fish,  peculiarly 
white  eggs  sold  by  jet  black  men,  —  each  ar- 
ticle was  accompanied  by  its  special  tone  and 
tune,  language  or  dialect. 

In  front  of  their  open  shops  devout  Arabs 
read  the  Koran  in  apparent  absorption;  never 
so  far  removed  from  this  world's  affairs,  how- 
ever, as  to  forget  the  additional  price  for  their 
wares  reserved  for  Christians. 

Bakers  without  warning  pulled  out  from 
their  ovens  huge  shovels  full  of  yellow  loaves, 
until  the  long  iron  handles,  reaching  nearly 
across  the  street,  proved  a  sudden  stumbling- 
block  to  the  unwary.  This  sulphur-tinted 
edible  is  more  decorative  than  hygienic.  But 
it  must  be  distinctly  convenient  to  use  the 
street  as  a  sort  of  supplementary  bake-shop, 
when  one's  own  premises  are  too  small  for 
manipulating  the  long-handled  implements  of 

21 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

trade;  and  no  less  easy  and  pleasant  to  strew 
one's  loaves  along  the  highway,  where  cus- 
tomers here  and  there  can  pick  up  those  most 
to  their  liking,  drop  an  infinitesimal  Turkish 
coin,  and  pass  silently  onward. 

In  the  street  of  potters  pretty  Jewish  boys 
made  and  sold  jars  identical  in  shape  with  the 
Roman  amphorae  of  two  thousand  years  ago, 
still  frequently  unearthed  when  wells  were 
dug,  or  a  new  garden  made.  Digging  for 
relics  per  se  was  forbidden  by  the  Turkish 
government;  but  among  those  interested  in 
antiquities  many  wells  seemed  an  imperative 
necessity.  The  modern  copies  were  still  car- 
ried off  to  small  inland  villages,  as  they  had 
been  since  the  dawn  of  history,  over  roads 
and  scarcely  discernible  pathways  of  immemo- 
rial age,  quite  as  bad  as  when  first  trodden. 

The  city  streets  were  no  better;  and  for 
considerations  of  cleanliness  walks  were  gen- 
erally taken  in  the  morning.  Small  boys  went 
about  at  sunrise,  sweeping  with  the  bushy  part 
of  the  date  palm,  and  collecting  accumulated 

22 


THOROUGHFARES 

rubbish  in  baskets,  took  it  to  the  beach  for 
burning.  During  the  day,  however,  house- 
keepers gradually  threw  out  into  the  street 
augmenting  piles  of  everything  discarded  — 
decaying  vegetables,  fruit,  bones,  eggshells, 
fish,  all  imaginable  refuse  —  so  that  toward 
sunset  walking,  at  all  times  precarious,  was 
but  divided  pleasure. 

The  two-wheeled  araba  was  a  very  gay  little 
cart,  with  bright  awnings  and  blue  paint,  deco- 
rated with  fancy  designs,  as  well  as  red  cur- 
tains against  the  blinding  sun.  But  it  had  no 
springs,  and  the  axle  lay  uncovered  on  the 
floor,  inconveniences  scarcely  compensated  on 
unpaved  thoroughfares  by  a  string  of  merrily 
jingling  bells  around  the  horse's  neck.  Later 
the  use  of  these  conveyances  had  been  forbid- 
den by  the  Pasha,  who  insisted  upon  fine  vic- 
torias drawn  by  two  horses.  Donkeys  and 
camels  as  means  of  locomotion  had  no  serious 
rivals  in  those  early  days. 

Along  the  narrow,  tunnel-like  thorough- 
fares, all  occupations  seemed  to  be  going  on 

23 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

in  the  face  and  eyes  of  the  public.  Pale  "  blue- 
wash  "  tinted  many  of  the  arches,  or  pink  or 
yellow,  yet  hardly  affecting  the  general  white- 
ness of  effect.  Sometimes  the  streets  were 
roofed  with  matting  to  keep  off  the  scorching 
sun;  or  treated,  pergola- fashion,  with  grape- 
vines hanging  their  clusters  overhead,  above 
the  hurrying  throngs. 

Weaving  with  the  most  primitive  of  looms 
went  on  in  one  street,  each  occupation  having 
its  own  quarter  where  all  shops  and  houses 
were  devoted  to  a  particular  industry.  Red 
and  yellow  cotton  plaids  made  dusky  interiors 
almost  gay  as  old  women  bent  above  their 
tasks,  throwing  shuttles  and  pulling  threads 
in  unconsciously  picturesque  attitudes,  while 
barracans  grew  visibly  under  their  swiftly 
flying  fingers.  But  far  more  beautiful  were 
the  soft  white  fabrics  of  camel's  hair,  some- 
times earners  hair  and  silk  together,  more 
rarely  silk  alone,  making  a  garment  of  most 
poetic  quality. 

Farther  on  was  the  arcade  of  metal-workers, 
24 


Pale  blue-wash  tinted  many  of  the  arches 


THOROUGHFARES 

where  pliable  native  gold  and  silver  were 
beaten  and  cut  and  hammered  clumsily  into 
shape;  bracelets  of  incredible  weight  and 
flexibility,  golden  sequins  hung  upon  chains 
yards  in  length,  odd  ornaments  for  a  people 
left  over  from  mediseval  times,  knowing  and 
using  nothing  different  from  those  of  genera- 
tions ago.  The  silent  workers  glanced  up  in- 
curiously at  the  passer,  and  bent  once  more 
to  their  tasks.  With  the  street  throngs  it 
was  quite  different;  closing  in  about  us  in 
a  tightly  wedged  crowd,  dozens  of  personal 
articles  were  proffered  at  double  their  value. 

Over  every  shop  was  painted,  carved  or 
otherwise  indicated,  the  hand  which  averts 
the  evil  eye  quite  as  effectively  as  unclosing 
fingers,  extended  towards  dangerous  persons, 
and  accompanied  by  the  universal  "hamsa! 
hamsa!" 

Round,  rectangular  or  oval  leather  cushions 
were  found  in  another  quarter,  decorated  in 
rough  patterns,  the  outlines  burned  to  a  deep 
brown,  the  colouring  soft  reds  and  yellows  with 

25 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

more  or  less  black.  Rugs,  too,  were  woven 
in  similar  colours,  but  small,  without  pile,  and 
not  always  straight  or  symmetrical;  these 
could  be  well  seen  and  stuctfed  in  the  bazars 
which  contained  many  products  of  the  region, 
where  African  ethnology  became  an  absorbing 
subject. 

But  in  a  city  devoid  of  tourists  nothing  was 
arranged  with  an  eye  to  captivate  foreign  at- 
tention, and  one  needed  to  search  and  inquire 
for  wares  which  in  more  sophisticated  Tunis 
or  Algiers  would  be  alluringly  displayed.  By 
effort,  however,  dusty  shelves  and  unsuspected 
corners  could  be  made  to  reveal  beautiful  old 
brass  lamps,  manifestly  Grecian  and  Italian, 
candle-sticks,  door-knockers,  handles,  all  black 
with  age  and  neglect,  but  graceful  and  ar- 
tistic. 

A  great  rallying  point  in  the  city  was  the 
Turkish  fountain,  erected  in  honour  of  the 
present  Sultan's  predecessor,  and  always  sur- 
rounded by  a  varied  throng  at  all  hours.  One 
passed  it  in  most  of  the  drives  or  rides  out- 

26 


THOROUGHFARES 

side,  along  the  mud-walled  lanes  leading  to  the 
great  desert  where  eternity  waits. 

A  few  carvers  of  ivory  were  still  found 
here  and  there,  and  by  giving  the  design  and 
carefully  indicating  shapes  and  uses,  fairly 
good  work  was  obtained.  Upon  urgent  re- 
quest, parasol  handles  of  ivory  with  ingeni- 
ously sliding  rings  were  made,  even  a  mono- 
gram carved,  although  the  artisan  had  not  the 
faintest  knowledge  of  the  letters  or  their 
significance. 

One  old  man  continued  to  make  grass  and 
palm  fans  in  shape  like  a  square  flag,  ordi- 
narily with  carved  olive  wood  handles;  but 
very  sumptuous  ivory  handles  could  be  sub- 
stituted by  giving  detailed  orders,  and  one's 
initials  could  be  neatly  woven  into  the  fan 
itself.  A  little  carving,  too,  was  done  by  na- 
tives on  ostrich  eggs,  but  better  work  in  this 
line  was  shown  by  Italians.  Ostrich  feathers 
from  the  interior  were  still  exported  to  some 
extent,  sorting  of  the  dull,  brownish  plumes 
as  to  size,  fulness  and  other  qualities  being 

27 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

entrusted  to  Arab  and  Jewish  boys  under 
watchful  direction. 

In  1900  the  city  was  heavily  walled.  The 
small  English  colony  had  constructed  tennis 
courts  in  a  convenient  angle  outside  the  great 
barricade,  and  afternoon  tea  was  served,  fol- 
lowing the  vigourous  games  every  day.  At  six 
o'clock,  when  sunset  was  beginning  to  flush 
all  the  white  masonry  with  a  delicious  pink, 
the  ponderous  gates  were  closed  to  all  out- 
siders, and  no  one  went  or  came  through  again 
until  morning. 

When  the  great  gates  swung  together,  they 
met  on  a  brass  plate  in  the  street.  Whoever 
in  departing  from  the  city  should  unwittingly 
step  on  it  was  destined  to  return.  That  was 
my  happy  fortune  in  1900  and  lo !  I  once  more 
saw  the  desert  city  five  years  later,  but  by 
that  time  the  gates  and  part  of  the  wall  had 
been  removed.  Some  vague  feeling  for  Euro- 
pean boulevard  effects  had  dawned,  and  a 
street  along  the  water  was  laid  out  with  a 
sea  wall  and  railing.  But  no  paving  had  been 

28 


THOROUGHFARES 

attempted,  and  alternate  hill  and  valley  still 
made  progress  in  any  wheeled  vehicle  an  im- 
possible torture. 

One  lovely  May  morning  I  was  awakened 
very  early  by  droves  of  goats  passing,  their 
little  hoofs  making  a  chorus  of  clicks  on  the 
road;  and  apparently  they  were  attached  to 
a  cavalcade  of  bells  which  rang  with  continued 
insistence  as  if  intentionally  awakening  the 
city. 

Later  in  the  day  a  street  fight  occurred  be- 
tween a  jet-black  vendor  of  bottles  carried 
about  in  a  little  push-cart  and  a  lighter  col- 
oured, befezzed  person,  which  gradually  col- 
lected a  crowd  of  all  the  nations  of  the  earth, 
among  them  a  man  with  a  table  on  his  head. 
It  sounded  as  if  they  were  going  to  tear  each 
other's  eyes  out,  but  Arabic  is  curiously  em- 
phatic, and  the  voices  were  hoarse  and  loud 
at  best;  after  all,  it  turned  out  to  be  a  fairly 
amiable  encounter.  In  the  midst,  a  procession 
of  children  in  all  varieties  of  supposed  Euro- 
pean clothes  came  by,  convoyed  by  two  or 

29 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
three  pale  and  anxious-looking  Roman  Catho- 
lic Sisters.    Then  appeared  a  heavily  turbaned 
Turk  in  a  gorgeous  red  robe;   then  a  brown- 
vestured  Franciscan  Brother. 

Sponge  boats  were  often  anchored  at  the 
Marina,  where  we  sometimes  took  afternoon 
coffee.  Old  men  weaving  coarse  baskets  sat 
about  in  corners,  and  mountains  of  water- jars 
of  all  conceivable  sizes  and  shapes  were  piled 
here  and  there.  In  the  fish  market  were  bril- 
liant scarlet  and  bright  blue  fish.  Near  by  on 
several  occasions  I  saw  a  holy  dervish  with 
bushy,  curly  hair  and  beard,  the  head  quite 
bare  of  fez  and  barracan,  a  look  of  strange 
abstraction  in  his  piercing  eyes.  Marabouts, 
holy  men,  passed  now  and  then,  reverently 
saluted  on  every  hand. 

Enormous  door  keys  were  carried  conspicu- 
ously by  Arabs  around  the  street.  In  Morocco 
and  Algiers  the  same  habit  has  been  noted; 
but  there  it  probably  has  a  different  signifi- 
cance, as  a  belief  still  exists  that  the  Moors 
driven  from  Granada  will  one  day  return  to 

30 


THOROUGHFARES 

the  homes  of  their  ancestors;  and  the  huge 
keys  so  cherished,  sometime  to  be  used  again, 
are  the  actual  ones  belonging  to  those  houses, 
which  their  grandfathers  brought  away  when 
sadly  turning  their  faces  from  that  fair  and 
beloved  land  in  1492. 

Except  Italian,  few  languages  that  one 
might  naturally  be  supposed  to  have  studied 
were  any  help  in  the  white  city.  Unless 
Turkish,  Arabic,  Maltese,  modern  Greek  or 
desert  dialects  were  part  of  one's  mental  equip- 
ment, communication  proceeded  chiefly  by 
pantomime.  There  were  French,  Italian  and 
English  Consulates,  the  only  European  nations 
having  permanent  officials  in  Tripoli;  but  in 
the  Babel  of  nationalities  overwhelming  one's 
arrival  no  familiar  word  was  distinguishable. 


VI 

A  LITTLE  HISTORY 

Varied  experience  has  been  the  portion  of 
Tripoli  almost  since  history  began.  One  of  the 
oldest  cities  in  the  world  and  combining  ancient 
Oea  with  Leptis  Magna  and  Sabrata,  it  became 
Tripolis,  "  three  cities,"  the  "  triple  town." 
Possibly  founded  by  Phoenicians  several  cen- 
turies before  Christ,  little  can  be  traced  of  its 
early  glory,  one-time  capital  of  Syrtica  Regio. 
As  Sir  Lambert  Playfair  picturesquely  re- 
marks, "All  that  now  remains  of  the  three 
eastern  Barbary  states  is  a  bibliography."  In 
those  early  days  its  great  bay,  the  Syrtis  Major, 
was  considered  dangerous  to  navigation,  while 
beyond  lay  Ceyrari  Barka,  that  "  road  of  whirl- 
winds "  from  Cyrenaica  to  Egypt,  scarcely  less 
threatening  in  its  different  menace. 

Barbary  as  a  name  was  thought  by  Gibbon 
to  be  merely  continued  from  the  time  of  its 

32 


A   LITTLE   HISTORY 

Roman  conquerors,  who  called  barbarian  every- 
thing outside  of  their  own  environment.  Other 
writers  think  it  a  repetition  of  the  Arabic  word 
bar,  meaning  desert ;  or  perhaps  from  Berbers, 
shepherd  dwellers  the  most  ancient  of  its  in- 
habitants. However  the  name  or  country 
originated,  it  had  a  fluctuating  and  bloody  his- 
tory for  centuries. 

In  A.  D.  146  the  Emperor  Lucius  Septimius 
Severus  was  born  in  Tripoli  province  at  Leptis 
Magna  (afterward  called  Lebda  by  the  Arabs), 
when  Punic  was  still  the  language  of  the  coun- 
try. Severus,  that  military  despot  who  toler- 
ated no  tyranny  but  his  own,  was  the  first 
Roman  emperor  who  learned  Latin  as  a  for- 
eign tongue. 

It  has  passed  from  Rome  to  Moslem;  from 
building  splendid  works  of  art  to  beheading 
statues  and  throwing  them  to  the  ground ;  from 
being  itself  victim  of  Vandals  in  the  fifth  cen- 
tury to  its  rescue  by  the  Byzantine  general  Beli- 
sarius  a  century  later.  Yet  in  641  (following 
the  Hejira  of  622),  when,  like  a  cyclone,  Mos- 

33 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
lems  and  their  religion  swept  from  Mecca  and 
Modena  along  the  African  coast,  obliterating 
all  traces  of  Christianity  in  their  irresistible 
progress,  Tripoli  has  not  been  allowed  to  re- 
main an  unharried  stronghold  of  the  prophet. 

The  Arabs  ruled  to  787  A.  D.,  after  that  be- 
coming for  a  time  subject  to  the  rulers  of 
Tunisia.  In  1352  an  appeal  was  sent  to  Abu 
'Ainan,  King  of  Morocco,  for  fifty  thousand 
pieces  of  gold  to  be  used  as  ransom  from  the 
Genoese  —  which  he  dispatched  in  five  loads. 
During  the  reign  of  Ferdinand  V  "  the  Catho- 
lic "  a  Spanish  fleet  sailed  into  harbour  in  1510 
and  captured  the  city  in  one  night.  Among  the 
people  of  Tripoli  is  a  tradition  that  the  ruins 
of  a  fort  standing  opposite  the  Catholic  ceme- 
tery known  as  Borg-bu-lela  (father  of  night) 
are  the  remnants  of  a  fortress  erected  by  the 
Spanish  during  that  remarkable  night.  The 
better  classes  in  the  city  refused  to  recognize 
Spanish  supremacy,  and  leaving  their  homes 
many  took  refuge  in  near  oases,  especially 
Tajura,  which  became  an  important  center. 

34 


A   LITTLE   HISTORY 

Later,  about  1528,  the  ubiquitous  Charles  V 
yielded  Malta  to  the  Knights  of  Rhodes,  and 
with  it  the  government  of  Tripoli,  which  they 
held  until  1553,  but  were  expelled  by  the 
famous  Turkish  corsairs,  Dragut  the  great,  the 
terrible,  and  Sinan.  The  original  city  walls 
were  attributed  to  the  redoubtable  Dragut.  He 
especially  knew  well  why  walls  were  desirable. 
Some  authorities  believe  they  were  erected  by 
the  Knights,  aided  by  Arab  prisoners,  and  per- 
haps rebuilt  by  the  corsair.  Dragut  and  Bar- 
barossa  scoured  the  seas  with  their  ships; 
Dragut,  who  died  fighting  for  the  possession 
of  Malta,  is  supposed  to  be  buried  in  or  near 
one  of  the  Tripoli  mosques  which  he  founded. 
As  a  center  for  piracy,  Tripoli  was  a  great 
success. 

A  century  later  Cromwell,  viewing  with 
watchful  eye  the  increased  strength  of  Barbary 
and  the  scourge  of  her  pirates,  sent  in  1655  his 
Admiral  Blake  to  this  troublous  region,  and 
heavy  chastisement  was  distributed  impartially. 
Revolts  and  clashings  of  different  interests  and 

35 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
nations  kept  the  states  in  a  turmoil  for  genera- 
tions. One  of  the  Caramanli  princes  became 
governor  about  1710.  Growing  ambitious,  he 
attempted  to  become  practically  independent  of 
Constantinople,  but  fearing  certain  officers, 
too  loyal  to  the  Sultan,  the  story  goes  that 
Ahmed  Pasha  invited  them  all  on  one  occasion 
to  a  great  banquet  —  from  which  they  never 
returned.  His  successors  continued  to  rule  as 
Bey  for  over  a  century  thereafter,  the  only 
period  approaching  a  "  golden  age  "  which  poor 
Tripoli  has  ever  known.  The  last  Caramanli 
governor,  and  probably  most  famous,  was 
Jussuf  Pasha. 

In  1825  a  disagreement  with  Sardinia  took 
place,  and  such  was  the  arrogance  of  Jussuf 
Pasha  that  a  fleet  was  dispatched  to  reduce  him 
to  terms;  he  finally  submitted,  and,  in  the 
words  of  Dr.  Ayra,  "  meantime  the  flag  of 
Savoy  was  hoisted  at  the  Consulate,  and  was 
saluted  by  artillery  from  the  forts  of  Tripoli, 
and  men  were  taught  to  respect  the  banner 
which  not  long  after  was  destined  to  float  over 

36 


A   LITTLE   HISTORY 

the  capital,  a  symbol  of  Italian  unity  and  lib- 
erty." So  the  autumn  of  1911  was  not  the  first 
time  that  Italy  was  conqueror. 

The  central  fort  and  lighthouse  were  built 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  bastion,  now  called 
Bur j  el-Trab,  "  earth- fort." 

A  picturesque  incident  is  related  of  Abd-el- 
Mumin,  who  was  hoping  to  reign  after  his 
master,  Ibn  Tumart.  He  taught  a  lion  to  fol- 
low him  like  a  dog,  and  a  bird  to  say,  "  Victory 
and  power  belong  to  thee,  khalifa  Abd-el- 
Mumin."  While  the  Muwah  Hadi  council  were 
deliberating  on  a  successor  to  Ibn  Tumart,  this 
lion  came  rushing  in,  apparently  from  the 
wilds,  and  crouched  at  the  feet  of  Abd-el- 
Mumin.  Later  the  bird  appeared  and  shrieked 
out  its  lesson.  The  effect  was  magical ;  opposi- 
tion vanished,  and  this  clever  aspirant  was 
triumphantly  elected. 

But  again  the  country  was  conquered.  Un- 
der the  plausible  wish  of  putting  an  end  to 
disorders  occasioned  by  the  ambitions  of  two 
brother  princes,  sons  of  Jussuf  Pasha,  Turkey 

37. 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

took  possession,  turning  Tripoli  into  a  province 
or  vilayet  of  her  own  in  1835. 

Since  then  Tripoli  has  practically  done  noth- 
ing to  foster  trade,  to  im(prove  agricultural 
methods,  to  extend  irrigation,  to  enlarge  com- 
merce or  modernize  any  art  or  inSustry.  The 
Turkish  government  has  been  described  as 
more  inexorable  than  the  wall  of  China;  and 
paralyzed  by  all  these  conditions,  Tripoli  has 
waited,  beautiful,  picturesque,  glowing,  but  as 
it  were  in  a  state  of  suspended  animation,  hold- 
ing her  breath  for  the  next  stage.  And  so  the 
city,  oriental  in  every  detail,  has  been  unspoiled 
by  the  tourist,  anil  despite  loss  of  trade  and  im- 
portance was  still  the  metropolis  for  many 
hundred  miles  of  sparsely  inhabited  coast  line, 
Mediterranean  gateway  to  the  Sahara. 


VII 
TRIPOLI  AND  THE  UNITED  STATES 

The  concern  of  Americans  with  this  far- 
away coast  began  in  1784,  near  the  close  of  the 
Revolution,  when  pirates  were  making  life 
miserable  to  the  newly  fledged  republic.  Our 
craft  and  our  diplomatists  have  not  loved 
Tripoli  for  more  than  a  century. 

The  first  aggression  by  Barbary  powers 
against  the  United  States  and  its  commerce 
appears  to  have  been  in  October  of  that  year. 
Presumably  we  were  sufficiently  wearied  and 
harassed  by  our  own  Revolution  to  fall  easy 
victims  in  the  Mediterranean  to  the  corsairs 
who  swept  the  seas  with  the  greatest  danger 
and  loss  of  our  shipping,  to  say  nothing  of  our 
sailors  and  officers,  many  of  whom  were  im- 
prisoned, enslaved  and  most  cruelly  treated, 
in  spite  of  the  subsidy  paid  for  protection. 

39 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
Treaties  were  made  and  broken,  and  one  of 
the  old  pamphlets  of  the  time  quaintly  remarked 
that  Tripoli 

"  has  now  f ome  trade  in  afhes,  oftrich  feathers  and 
fkins ;  but  they  gain  more  by  the  Chriftians  taken  at 
f ea,  for  they  either  f  et  high  ranf oms  on  them,  as  we 
fhall  fee  in  the  fequel,  in  the  cafe  of  our  own  unfor- 
tunate countrymen  who  have  unluckily  fallen  into 
their  hands,  or  elfe  fell  them  for  flaves." 

Our  officers  made  gallant  records  in  these 
troubled  years  —  Preble,  Bainbridge,  Decatur 
and  others  —  but  the  loss  of  our  frigate,  the 
Philadelphia,  was  a  severe  blow  at  a  time  when 
we  needed  all  our  naval  resources.  Peace  was 
greatly  delayed  by  this  catastrophe,  and  the 
large  number  of  prisoners  complicated  the 
whole  question  very  seriously.  Stories  of  the 
imprisonment  of  our  officers  in  Tripoli  are  occa- 
sionally told  there  even  yet,  and  picturesque 
incidents  still  recounted.  Houses  were  shown 
me  in  which  the  captives  were  confined,  though 
there  was  manifest  reluctance  to  talk  upon  vari- 
ous aspects  of  this  period  by  the  descendants 
of  those  concerned. 

40 


Houses  were  shown  me  where  the  captives  were  confined 


TRIPOLI  AND  THE  UNITED  STATES 

In  1804  Tripoli  was  blockaded  by  our  ships 
under  Commodore  Preble,  after  the  loss  of  the 
Philadelphia,  and  he,  with  Bainbridge,  con- 
ceived the  plan  of  again  destroying  the  frigate, 
which  had  been  raised  and  put  in  commission 
by  the  Pasha  and  his  officers.  The  destroying 
expedition,  in  charge  of  Decatur,  was  splendidly 
carried  out.  The  Philadelphia,  a  floating  mass 
of  fire,  her  guns  discharging  as  the  flames 
reached  them,  finally  sank  in  shallow  water  near 
the  shore,  a  complete  wreck.  Her  charred  re- 
mains could  be  seen  on  any  quiet  day  beneath 
the  clear  waters  of  the  bay,  and  a  piece  of  her 
historic  keel  now  lies  on  my  desk. 

This  brilliant  enterprise  added  much  to  the 
prestige  of  our  navy  and  was  called  by  the 
great  Nelson  "  the  most  bold  and  daring  act 
of  the  age."  A  more  perfect  outcome,  of 
course,  would  have  been  the  capture  and  tow- 
ing away  of  the  Philadelphia,  once  more  to  re- 
join our  own  squadron,  but  the  orders  of  the 
admiral  were  explicit.  Risks  in  trying  to  escape 
with  her  were  too  great. 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Peace  was  finally  restored,  and  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  Barbary  corsairs  ended.  Turkey 
became  once  more  paramount  in  1835,  and 
Tripoli  has  since  stood  still. 


42 


VIII 
THE  PASHA'S  CASTLE 

Once  an  ancient  fortress,  this  official  resi- 
dence of  the  Governor  was  almost  a  small  city 
in  itself.  Access  to  its  outer  passages  was  a 
simple  matter  for  the  inhabitants,  who  thronged 
its  white  entrances  with  petitions,  requests  or 
business  they  thought  important,  awaiting  with 
stolid  patience  the  time  when  Turkish  soldiers 
and  guardians  would  admit  them  to  its  inner 
courts.  Many  of  them  probably  never  reached 
those  desired  precincts  —  but  they  made  a  pic- 
turesque crowd,  kept  in  orderly  shape  by  strict 
authority. 

The  chief  government  offices  were  located 
here,  the  law  courts,  prisons,  warehouses  and 
military  stores.  There  was  also  a  barrack  for 
infantry.  Cavalry  and  artillery  were  housed 
farther  out  of  the  city.  A  sort  of  town  council 

43 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

(beledia),  chosen  by  the  Pasha,  had  its  meet- 
ings here.  Town  finances,  street  cleaning  (the 
latter,  as  an  Italian  writer  naively  remarks, 
"  a  function  often  merely  nominal  ")  and  light- 
ing were  considered  at  these  times,  as  well  as 
other  city  interests.  Lighting  was  not  an  ex- 
traordinarily complicated  matter ;  faint  lamps, 
fed  by  petroleum,  were  set  here  and  there  in 
gloomy  corners. 

The  huge  structure  contained  two  large 
courtyards,  and  was  so  firmly  planted  on  natural 
rock  that  now  and  again  ledges  came  to  the 
surface  in  walls  and  bastion ;  a  few  stones  with 
Roman  inscriptions  occupied  corners. 

If  those  dumb  walls  could  speak,  centuries 
of  history,  unwritten,  unremembered,  but  full 
of  the  passion  and  patriotism,  cruelty  and 
treachery  of  life  would  be  revealed.  On  one 
visit  to  the  Pasha  he  proposed  to  show  us  the 
castle,  sending  two  richly  dressed  officials  as 
guides.  We  were  not  slow  to  take  the  implied 
suggestion  of  looking  only  at  what  was  espe- 
cially designated.  It  was  all  intensely  inter- 

44 


His  Excellency  Redjed  Pasha,  former  Governor  of  Tripoli 


THE   PASHA'S    CASTLE 

esting,  from  the  Pasha's  modern  drawing- 
rooms  where  delicious  coffee  and  Turkish 
refreshments  were  served,  to  the  roof  terrace 
offered  as  headquarters  for  our  observations 
overlooking  bay  and  shipping  and  sands. 

On  September  i  the  anniversary  of  the  Sul- 
tan's accession  was  celebrated  with  much  pomp. 
Processions  and  Turkish  ceremonies  filled  the 
day.  In  the  evening  the  Pasha  gave  a  brilliant 
reception.  We  drove  to  the  Garden  gateway 
over  Pianura  sands,  full  of  huddled  Arabs  and 
sleeping  camels.  The  great  pavilion  sparkled 
with  lights  and  decorations,  and  the  Turkish 
band  was  playing  as  we  entered.  Scarlet  and 
white  hangings,  divans  and  embroideries  made 
a  gorgeous  effect. 

Only  a  few  especially  invited  guests  were  re- 
ceived within,  the  immense  crowd  remaining 
respectfully  outside.  We  were  greeted  first  by 

H Bey,  resplendent  in  state  uniform,  and 

passed  on  through  lines  of  waiting  attendants 
from  one  officer  to  another,  and  finally  to  the 
Pasha  himself,  who  insisted  upon  our  occupy- 

45 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

ing  his  own  special  divan  and  kept  us  by  his 
side  for  the  remainder  of  the  evening. 

Beyond  was  a  private  and  enclosed  garden, 
where  the  band  was  stationed.  Ices  and  coffee, 
sweets  and  cake  were  immediately  served,  the 
Pasha  chatting  volubly  to  us  in  Turkish,  which 
was  put  into  excellent  French  by  one  of  his 
staff.  So  the  evening  passed  brilliantly,  and  the 
holiday  closeS  with  remarkable  fireworks  as  the 
band  played  its  final  tribute  to  the  Sultan. 


46 


IX 

INHABITANTS,  OCCUPATIONS,  SCHOOLS 

Its  forty  thousand  or  more  inhabitants  were 
hard  to  disentangle  ethnologically ;  also  a  reli- 
able census  is  almost  impossible,  for  under  cer- 
tain interpretations  of  the  Koran  its  principles 
oppose  such  accuracy.  Less  than  five  thousand 
Europeans,  chiefly  Maltese,  were  actual  resi- 
dents. The  original  stock  is  probably  repre- 
sented by  Berbers,  but  to  the  onlooker  the  dis- 
tinctions between  Arab,  Moor  and  Bedouin  are 
slight.  A  few  persons  descended  from  a  Turk- 
ish father  and  an  Arab  mother  are  termed 
Corugli  or  Colugli.  So  much  intermingling  of 
races  by  marriage  as  the  city  showed  made 
still  more  difficult  the  task  of  recognizing  na- 
tionalities. Many  families  were  crossed  Arab- 
Italian,  in  such  cases  usually  Mohammedan  in 
belief. 

Fezzani  and  inky  Sudanese  abounded,  many 
47 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Jews,  Italians  and  Maltese,  Albanians  in  baggy 
trousers,  Greek  sponge-divers,  Sicilians,  whirl- 
ing dervishes  and  holy  marabouts.  Turkish 
soldiers,  lounging  in  barracks  or  over  the  mud 
walls  of  their  gardens,  showed  the  most  diver- 
sified rags,  and  while  utterly  unkempt  anil 
dirty,  had  generally  boyishly  honest  and  ami- 
able faces.  Ten  thousand  troops,  chiefly  in  and 
near  the  city,  added  to  its  motley  and  bewilder- 
ing masses.  Only  sixteen  English-speaking 
persons  lived  permanently  in  Tripoli,  and  there 
was  no  United  States  Consulate,  though  one 
was  established  in  1910;  but  the  British  Con- 
sul-General was  a  host  in  himself,  looking  out 
impartially  for  the  welfare  of  the  most  ignorant 
Maltese,  for  the  extensive  English  interests  in 
esparto  grass  and  other  trade,  and  for  Ameri- 
can eclipse  expeditions  as  well.  Three  post- 
offices,  Turkish,  French  and  Italian,  should  have 
given  a  wonderful  ease  in  transmitting  mails. 
The  Italian  office  served  the  postal  affairs  of 
England.  Turkish  money  being  almost  hopeless 
of  understanding,  our  financial  transactions 

48 


Inky  Sudanese  abounded 


INHABITANTS 

were    generally    conducted    in    lire,    though 
French  francs  were  warmly  welcomed. 

The  numerous  esparto  funduks  are  character- 
istic, and  we  spent  entertaining  afternoons  at  a 
large  one  owned  by  an  English  friend.  Piles  of 
sweet-smelling  grass  lay  ia  tons  around  the  high 
wall,  where  an  army  of  black  men  in  all  stages 
of  picturesque  rags  were  picking  out  dead  roots 
and  other  drawbacks  to  first  quality.  Huge 
piles  on  their  heads,  wonderfully  balanced,  after 
this  process  of  separation,  were  carried  to  a 
machine,  dumped  into  a  sort  of  iron  box,  into 
which  two  men  jumped,  packing  it  hard  and 
solid.  Turned  by  machinery  under  a  steam 
press,  six  steel  binders  were  clamped  about  it 
until  a  neatly  packed  bale  ready  for  shipment 
finally  emerged.  Negroes  with  hooks  rolled  it 
off  through  a  gate  and  up  a  narrow  lane  to  the 
storehouse.  Tripoli  was  said  to  make  more 
than  a  million  francs  a  year  by  this  export.  On 
its  arrival  from  the  interior,  the  Arab  bringing 
it  was  paid  for  weighing  and  storing,  as  well 
as  the  government  tax. 

49 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
Formerly  corn  was  extensively  exporteS,  but 
when  different  causes  combined  to  reduce  de- 
mand, the  natives  settled  down  to  raise  and 
grind  only  enough  for  their  own  small  uses. 
In  various  lines  much  greater  activity  and 
prosperity  prevailed  in  earlier  times. 

Daily  life  presented  a  moving  picture  of 
nationalities  well-nigh  unmatched  by  any  other 
region.  Arabs  were  pervasive,  omnipresent; 
ghostly  dream  figures  muffled  in  white  barra- 
cans silently  traversed  the  streets  of  a  pale 
city  equally  spectral,  the  women  completely 
shrouded  except  one  bright  black  eye,  the  men 
showing  swarthy  faces  of  inexpressible  sober- 
ness and  dignity.  Hurrying  Jews,  pasty-faced 
Maltese  —  the  women  in  the  national  faldetta 
—  and  overrunning  desert  nations  filled  the 
highways,  in  every  shade  from  yellow  to  deep- 
est brown,  thence  to  dead  black  like  ebony 
matching  their  wool,  or  polished  black  like 
patent  leather  —  Berbers,  negroes,  Fezzani, 
Sudanese,  in  a  "  fluid  panorama." 
!A  so-called  Turkish  college  was  conducted 
50 


INHABITANTS 

in  the  city,  but  the  boys  had  to  complete  any 
course  of  study  satisfactorily  in  Constanti- 
nople, especially  if  intended  for  a  military 
career.  There  was  a  French  school  for  boys 
conducted  by  the  Marianiste  Brothers;  also  a 
girls'  school  and  an  asylum  were  carried  on  by 
the  Sisters  of  S.  Vincent;  and  there  were  in- 
stitutions in  charge  of  the  Jewish  Union. 

A  fine  collection  of  meteorological  apparatus 
for  use  during  the  1905  eclipse  was  installed  by 
Professor  Palazzo  of  Rome  on  the  roof  of  the 
Italian  school  for  boys.  Italy  carried  on  two 
elementary  schools  for  boys  and  for  girls,  a 
kindergarten  and  a  technical  commercial  school 
with  the  meteorological  observatory  attached. 
The  late  director  of  foreign  instruction,  Sig. 
Giuseppe  Ayra,  has  given  the  general  meteoro- 
logical history  of  Tripoli  in  a  little  volume  pub- 
lished in  Turin  several  years  ago.  The  ob- 
servatory established  by  Italy  in  1892  was  the 
only  one  between  Tunis  and  Alexandria  anil 
held  a  very  important  position. 

The  technical  school  for  poor  and  orphaned 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

children  was  housed  in  a  new  building,  where 
we  were  greeted  by  the  grave  and  competent 
principal.  In  the  bare  reception  room  Turkish 
coffee  was  immediately  served.  Through  many 
other  apartments  we  were  escorted,  where  boys 
were  working  at  turning-lathes,  and  making 
furniture,  machinery  and  shoes,  weaving  silk 
into  barracans,  dress  materials  and  curtains. 
The  blacksmith  shop  was  equipped  with  bellows 
and  other  appliances  exactly  like  those  in  use 
for  centuries,  and  three  men  were  pounding  an 
anvil,  making  a  favourite  Arab  tune.  All 
colours  worked  peacefully  together,  blacks 
from  the  Sudan,  browns  from  Misrata  and 
Gabes,  lighter  tinted  Arabs  —  all  races  with- 
out distinction  were  amicably  friendly. 

Across  a  hot  garden,  past  a  paddock  full  of 
rams  and  goats  (once  an  old  Arab  cemetery), 
we  reached  the  building  where  girls  were  busy 
at  rug-making,  and  where  a  demure  jet-black 
maiden  had  to  go  ahead  to  warn  the  school  of 
our  coming,  that  the  little  girls,  some  of  whom 
were  old  enough  to  be  attractive,  might  adjust 

52 


INHABITANTS 

their  barracans  over  their  faces  before  the  head 
of  the  school  and  the  foreign  gentleman  should 
arrive.  Under  ten  years  the  children  remained 
uncovered. 

All  turned  and  saluted  us  with  a  charming 
manner,  and  at  a  signal  turned  again  to  their 
weaving,  which  they  did  with  great  speed,  copy- 
ing a  design  prepared  by  some  supposable 
artist.  Workmanship  was  very  beautiful,  pat- 
terns very  bad  —  flags,  patriotic  insignia  and 
the  map  of  Africa,  with  hard  outlines  and 
crudely  brilliant  colours. 

Outside  the  city  are  few  large  centers,  and 
practically  none  in  the  interior.  Benghazi,  cap- 
ital of  Cyrenaica,  near  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Hesperia  (later  Berenice),  had  practically  ten 
or  twelve  thousand  beside  the  Turkish  garri- 
son. But  there  was  no  regular  communication 
either  with  Europe  or  Tripoli,  sometimes  nearly 
two  months  elapsing  without  this  possibility. 
Its  Governor  was  of  a  lower  rank  than  the 
Pasha  of  Tripoli,  but  still  independent  of  him. 
Cyrenaica  had  only  about  two  hundred  thou- 

53 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
sand  inhabitants,  and  the  Italian  post-office  had 
often  to  hold  mail  for  a  month  or  more  before 
any  means  of  forwarding  presented  itself, 
English  tramp  steamers  or  Turkish  transports 
being  the  only  possible  carriers. 

At  Jebel  Gharian  a  few  poor  villages  clus- 
tered about  two  Turkish  fortresses  with  their 
garrisons,  Kars  el-Gharian  an'd  Kars  el- Jebel. 
Zentan  is  the  center  of  an  actual  troglodyte 
colony.  The  inhabitants  of  these  subterranean 
villages  live  in  shelters  cut  in  the  living  rock, 
leaving  them  only  for  purposes  of  labour  and 
harvesting. 


54 


X 

THE  BRITISH  CONSULATE-GENERAL 

One  of  the  oldest,  largest  and  most  interest- 
ing dwellings  in  the  city  is  the  official  home  of 
England's  representative.  Built  in  1744,  a 
hundred  feet  square,  it  surrounds  the  usual 
central  courtyard  and  was  constructed  with 
reference  to  repelling  a  siege.  Almost  a  for- 
tress in  itself,  it  had  served  purposes  of  defense 
and  refuge  for  early  dwellers  in  the  uneasy  city 
many  times  before  the  English-speaking  resi- 
dents flocked  to  its  shelter  in  October  of  1911. 
In  peaceful  times  its  complicated  entrances  were 
occupied  only  by  dozing  Arab  servants,  one  of 
whom,  the  majestic  cavasse  and  interpreter 
Mufta,  would  conduct  in  the  expectant  visitor 
whose  reason  for  coming  was  satisfactory. 

Off  the  court  were  offices,  kitchens  and  serv- 
ants' quarters;  a  huge  old  tree  lifted  its 

55 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
branches  far  above  the  roof  terrace;  blossom- 
ing shrubs  in  gracious  abundance  and  the 
welcome  tinkle  of  water  gave  a  cool  and  home- 
like effect  to  the  shady  enclosure.  Around 
and  above,  a  gallery  was  reached  by  a  lovely 
wrought-iron  stairway  with  sandstone  steps, 
worn  into  hollows  by  the  feet  of  a  hundred 
and  fifty  years.  Inviting  doorways  led  to  the 
drawing-rooms  and  bedchambers,  dining-room 
and  boudoirs  of  the  household. 

On  the  gallery  wall  hung  the  old  national 
coat-of-arms  of  Denmark,  formerly  adorning  its 
own  Consulate,  afterward  abandoned  —  of  es- 
pecial interest  in  recalling  stories  of  the  humane 
conduct  of  a  certain  Danish  Consul  toward 
American  prisoners  during  the  wearisome  war 
with  Tripoli  over  a  century  ago.  The  insig- 
nia of  Norway,  also  weatherbeaten  and  time- 
worn,  from  another  Consulate  now  no  more, 
hung  beside  the  Danish  emblem;  the  slight  in- 
terests of  those  countries  in  this  remote  Turkish 
vilayet  were  being  faithfully  looked  after  by 
the  Consul-General  for  Great  Britain,  who  also 

56 


Sandstone  steps  worn  into  hollows  by  the  feet  of  a  hundred  and  fifty 
years 


BRITISH    CONSULATE-GENERAL 

represented   the   few   Americans   occasionally 
seeking  the  shores  and  sands  of  Barbary. 

Numerous  Roman  amphorae  and  bas-reliefs 
unearthed  from  the  encroaching  sands  enriched 
drawing-rooms  and  gallery;  plants  in  lavish 
abundance,  bamboo  seats  and  tea-tables  made 
an  atmosphere  of  delightful  hospitality. 

In  its  library,  a  charming  place  for  browsing 
about,  the  archives  were  rich  in  ancient  books 
and  manuscripts.  I  one  day  came  across  the 
quaintly  entertaining  volume,  "  Narrative  of  a 
Ten  Years'  Residence  in  Tripoli  in  Africa. 
From  correspondence  in  possession  of  Richard 
Tully,  London,  1816."  The  amusing  story  told 
in  this  old  book,  of  which  later  editions  have 
been  issued  but  often  without  the  very  funny 
colored  plates  of  the  earlier,  is  contained  in 
letters  supposedly  written  by  the  wife  of  a 
British  Consul-General  to  Lady  Mary  Wortley 
Montagu.  Many  valuable  and  now  all  but  for- 
gotten details  of  life  in  remote  Barbary  over  a 
hundred  years  ago  are  preserved  in  vivid  form 
by  this  vivacious  lady. 

57 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Vehicles  used,  even  well  into  the  nineteenth 
century,  were  almost  exclusively  palanquins  en- 
closed in  linen,  and  mounted  upon  a  earners 
back;  but  these  were  kept  by  only  a  few  of  the 
great  Moors  for  their  ladies.  Others  walked. 
Mourning  in  Tripoli  at  this  time  was  denoted 
more  by  shabbiness  than  by  distinctive  colour 
—  the  greater  the  grief,  the  more  careless  one's 
dress.  A  new  article,  necessarily  purchased, 
was  dragged  through  water  to  take  off  its  first 
freshness  before  wearing. 

One  pamphlet,  printed  in  1806,  described 
quaintly  the  "  Tripoline  "  war  of  the  United 
States.  Another,  far  older  and  very  rare,  I 
afterward  found  in  the  British  Museum: 


"  Late  Newes  out  of  Barbary.  In  a  letter  writ- 
ten of  late  from  a  Merchant  there,  to  a  Gentleman 
not  long  f  ince  employed  into  that  Countrie  from  his 
Maiestie.  Containing  fome  ftrange  particulars,  of 
this  new  Saintifh  Kings  proceedings :  as  they  have 
been  very  credibly  related  from  fuch  as  were  eye- 
witnef  fes.  Imprinted  at  London  for  Arthur  Jon  f  on. 
1613." 


BRITISH   CONSULATE-GENERAL 

But  far  more  entertaining  than  any  pub- 
lished book  was  the  manuscript  journal  kept  by 
H.  M/s  representative  in  Tripoli  between  1768 
and  1772.  He  begins  promptly: 

"  The  man  of  war  that  cary's  me  anchor'd  in  ye 
road  att  Tripoly  ye  King's  ship  to  fire  an  evening 
gun  at  setting  ye  watch. 

"  Memorandum  to  inquire  what  is  to  be  done 
about  ye  additional  salute.  All  ye  Consuls  will 
visit  me  promis.  without  observing  any  order  upon 
my  arrival,  preceded  by  a  message  deliver'd  by  a 
Dragoman.  I  can  return  none  of  these  visits  till 
I  have  presented  my  Credentials  to  ye  Bashaw. 
When  I  visit  ye  Bashaw  by  his  appointment  that 
part  of  ye  presents  intended  for  him  must  be 
carry'd  with  me,  that  part  of  ye  presents  for  his 
officers  I  distribute  att  my  own  convenience  .  .  . 
I  shall  find  ye  Bashaw  sitting,  the  form  of  salu- 
tation is  to  advance  and  kiss  his  write  and  left 
cheek  and  make  him  a  bow.  I  sett  on  his  left  side, 
being  the  place  of  honour  in  Tripoly. 

"To  make  my  first  visit  alone. 

"To  take  care  y*  I  am  saluted  with  7  Guns 
being  my  privilidge.  Ye  Cap*  may  if  he  pleases  re- 
turn ye  salute.  .  .  .  The  Choux  or  Civil  officer  that 
always  presents  ye  Bashaw's  present  of  refresh- 
ments to  be  each  day  entertained  on  board  ship 
with  coffee  and  Capilaire  in  ye  wardroom,  not  in 

59 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

ye  Captain's  cabin,  every  day  when  he  leaves  ye 
ship  the  Choux  must  be  saluted  with  3  Guns  only 
no  Turks  whatever  on  makeing  a  visit  should  be 
saluted.  ...  By  this  time  or  probably  sooner  I 
shall  be  apply'd  to  for  payment  of  4  zequins  for  the 
salute  made  according  to  treaty  to  his  Majesty's  ship 
on  her  arrival.  This  salute  is  due  by  treaty  and  not 
to  be  paid  for.  They  will  ask  for  4  zequins  for  my 
being  saluted  ...  for  which  there  is  no  necessity. 
.  .  .  Ye  Captain  of  ye  Port  in  particular  and  many 
other  Turks  will  without  any  shame  ask  for  any- 
thing on  board  ye  ship  or  in  my  house  .  .  .  but 
there  is  no  necessity  for  giving  them  everything 
they  ask  for." 

Then  follow  directions  to  himself  as  to  the 
orders  relative  to  flags. 

"  Ye  hoisting  of  His  Majesty's  colours  upon  dif- 
ferent occasions  becomes  a  kind  of  Publick  Lan- 
guage perfectly  well  understood  by  Moors  as  well 
as  Christians," 

and  proceeding  to  emphasize  the  fact  that  the 
"  colours  must  be  kept  chaste  "  to  ensure  re- 
spect, he  gives  a  list  of  occasions  when  they 
may  with  propriety  be  hoisted. 

Att  Christmas  3  Days.  Every  Sunday  in  ye  year. 
Saint  George's  Day  new  stile  and  old  stile.  Easter 

60 


BRITISH    CONSULATE-GENERAL 

Monday.  Fourth  June  His  Majesty's  birthday. 
N.  B.  Ye  first  visit  rec'd  from  and  pay'd  to  every 
Consul.  Ye  same  when  I  introduce  any  person  of 
condition  to  them  or  receive  their  visits  or  return 
any  publick  or  cerem.  dinner  given  or  rec'd,  the 
birth  of  a  child  to  any  Consul,  the  birthday  of  his 
Prince  kept  by  any  Consul  when  desir'd,  whenever 
the  Bashaw  or  his  Elder  Son  rides  out,  2  publick 
feast  days  of  By  ram  and  Ramadan,  the  birth  of  a 
Prince  or  Princess  of  the  Ottoman  port,  the  first 
visit  pay'd  to  me  by  an  ambassador  appointed  by  the 
Bashaw  to  any  European  court  after  he  is  appointed 
and  when  he  embarks,  wh.  is  twice  and  no  more." 

For  times  and  persons  when  it  is  quite  un- 
necessary to  waste  the  honour,  a  careful  list 
follows ;  and  after  remarking  that  at  the  feasts 
of  Byram  and  Ramadan  it  has  been  usual  to 
make  presents,  this  long-gone  official  adds 
naively,  "  wee  have  great  ships  and  need  make 
none." 

He  also  writes  of  the  pushing  and  crow3ing 
of  Consuls  in  calling  on  the  Bashaw,  as  to  "  who 
shall  gett  first,"  but  since  the  representative 
of  His  Majesty  has  always  had  precedence,  "  it 
never  can  be  necessary  for  him  to  put  himself 

61 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
on  a  footing  of  having  a  scramble."  As  to  call- 
ing upon  the  first  Treasurer,  "  this  is  an  inno- 
vation and  therefore  a  compliment  to  be  paid 
him  or  not  as  he  behaves.  They  will  all  offer 
coffee  of  a  bad  kind  and  without  sugar.  I  must 
taste  it  att  each  house  notwithstanding,  it  being 
a  mark  of  enmity  to  refuse  a  dish  of  coffee 
when  offered  by  a  Turk." 

Immensely  entertaining  notes  follow  about 
"  oyl "  and  provisions,  markets  and  seasons, 
and  a  "red  wine  from  the  Mediterranean  cost 
of  France,  drinks  like  claret  att  first,  but  sowers 
presently."  Caravans  and  ostrich  feathers, 
gold,  senna,  snuff;  from  Mecca  silks,  muslins, 
coloured  stones,  pearls,  small  Persian  carpets; 
and  black  slaves  exported  to  Constantinople,  all 
receive  careful  annotation  at  the  hand  of  this 
conscientious  gentleman,  who  seems  to  have 
had  a  clear  brain  for  everything  but  spelling. 
That  he  was  energetic  to  the  last  would  appear 
to  be  shown  by  an  added  note,  written  by  a 
later,  evidently  admiring,  hand,  "  He  died  in  his 
breeches." 

62 


BRITISH    CONSULATE-GENERAL 

Both  in  spring  and  the  height  of  summer 
Tripoli  air  was  full  of  inspiration.  Even  when 
the  gibleh  blew,  bringing  a  fine  golden  haze 
of  sand  from  close-creeping  Sahara  spaces, 
with  air  hot  and  dry  like  a  furnace,  it  was 
scarcely  less  full  of  the  wine  of  life  than  when 
the  sea  wind  came  in  from  the  Mediterranean, 
rippling  the  water  to  deep  indigo  flecked  by 
whitecaps.  Rain  water  at  certain  seasons  is 
conducted  from  the  constantly  whitewashed 
roofs  to  cisterns  below,  where  may  be  stored 
the  year's  supply. 

After  the  sun  slipped  down  from  the  blazing 
heavens  and  shadows  grew  long  and  cool,  roof 
terraces  became  the  city's  promenades  where 
veiled  ladies  emerged,  white  like  the  city  itself, 
to  gaze  safely  forth  above  curious  eyes. 

A  broad  expanse  of  terrace  at  the  Consulate, 
higher  than  any  other  edifice  in  the  city  except 
its  minarets,  afforded  delightful  evening  quar- 
ters, far  above  the  shouts  and  confusion  of  the 
narrow  masonry  canons  below.  Every  after- 
noon when  tea  in  the  pretty  drawing-room  was 

63 


TRIPOLI    THE   MYSTERIOUS 

over,  and  the  intense  sunlight  began  to  come  in 
level  and  less  burning  rays,  I  always  spent  an 
hour  or  two  on  the  roof. 

Too  hot  and  blinding  for  use  during  the  day, 
the  terraces  were  more  and  more  charming  as 
sunset  drew  on.  The  white  glare  was  subdued 
to  pleasant  lightness,  and  all  humanity  mounted 
to  its  lovely  vantage  grounds  for  breathing 
space,  open  prospect,  star-gleam. 

In  the  narrow  streets  donkeys  and  camels 
and  Arabs  passed  and  repassed;  bakers  with 
their  round  and  shining  loaves,  in  yellow  heaps 
just  out  of  the  oven,  better  as  decoration  than 
sustenance,  Cretans,  Albanians,  Maltese,  pro- 
miscuously mingled ;  and  street  cries  ascended 
with  their  emphatic,  unintelligible  enunciation, 
constantly  reiterated. 

Later  the  west  grew  yellow  and  magnificent, 
a  sort  of  widespread  radiance,  hinting  greater 
possibilities  in  reserve.  The  seventeen-domed 
mosque  stood  out  whitely,  even  in  that  city  of 
whiteness,  the  sapphire  Mediterranean  lapped 
serenely  on  the  beach,  the  gleaming  desert 

64 


BRITISH    CONSULATE-GENERAL 

stretched  mysteriously  into  dim  twilight  space, 
quiet  palms  rested  their  plumes  from  rustling. 

Then  out  upon  the  minarets,  just  beneath  the 
ultimate  green  summits,  each  crowned  by  its 
golden  crescent,  emerged  the  white-draped 
muezzins,  shrouded  in  ghostly  barracan,  for 
their  fifth  daily  call  of  the  faithful  to  prayer, 
white  as  the  towers  on  which  they  stood  and 
seeming  hardly  more  human.  Looking  first 
into  the  sky,  they  bent  low  over  the  parapet, 
sending  forth  the  call,  singularly  penetrating, 
and  audible  for  long  distances,  albeit  the  voices 
have  no  real  resonance  and  are  hopelessly 
"  squeezed  "  in  quality. 

After  dinner  a  still  later  phase  came  on, 
when  roofs,  domes,  towers  were  suddenly 
flooded  with  the  lighthouse  flash  close  by,  which 
hardly  dimmed  a  full-moon  brightness.  It 
might  have  been  a  fairy  city,  beautiful  beyond 
imagining.  A  palm  tree  showed  here  and 
there,  from  some  hidden  courtyard,  gaining 
dark  value  in  the  silver  scene,  and  tinkling 
music  ascended,  with  no  melody  and  no 

65 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
rhythm,  a  part  of  all  the  vague  and  ghostly 
yet  exquisite  beauty.  Toward  the  shore 
hooded  monks  in  brown  habit  and  rope 
girdle  promenaded  the  roof  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  church  —  a  foreign,  not  an  integral 
part  of  the  oriental  evening. 

Glorified  dust,  whirling  swallows,  calls  to 
sunset  devotion,  the  silent  desert  close-clasping, 
on-coming  moonlight,  the  coolness  and  blossom 
odour  —  these  were  Tripoli, 


66 


XI 

THE  ROMAN  ARCH  AND  ANCIENT  REMAINS 

Enticing  as  the  native  life  of  modern  times 
proved  —  homely  ancestral  arts,  picturesque 
decay,  thronging  tribes  —  more  suggestive, 
pathetic,  absolutely  engrossing,  was  the  om- 
nipresent evidence  of  a  splendid  period  long 
since  perished.  The  whole  region  is  rich  in 
ruins,  edifices,  tombs,  arches,  columns,  pave- 
ments, sculpture  in  scattered  fragments,  great 
aqueducts,  but  all  covered  by  resistlessly  mov- 
ing desert  sands  or  whitewashed,  blurred  and 
broken,  spoiled  by  carelessness,  ignorance, 
fanaticism.  The  grandeur  of  that  long-gone  age 
cannot  be  concealed  even  by  such  wholesale 
slaughter  of  the  beautiful.  Despite  the  ravages 
of  time  and  the  deplorable  neglect  of  man,  even 
in  mutilation  the  ruin  still  bears  noble  witness  to 
a  civilization  which  once  held  the  world  captive. 

Exquisite  slabs  of  carved  marble  are  made  to 
67 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
do  duty  as  doorsteps;  stones  with  half-effaced 
inscriptions  are  built  into  countless  cheap  and 
sordid  walls ;  and  at  the  intersection  of  two  nar- 
row and  lane-like  streets,  Shara  Erbat  Saat  and 
Suk  el-Yahud  el-Hararah,  four  fine  Roman 
pillars  performed  the  part  of  corner  posts. 

The  most  superb  relic  of  these  ancient  days 
now  departed  is  the  four-sided  triumphal  arch, 
said  to  extend  no  less  than  twenty  feet  below 
the  street  level  and  reaching  more  than  the  same 
height  above,  wherein  a  wine  shop  and  coal  store 
hold  gayly  forth,  yet  obliterating  only  in  part 
the  magnificence  of  their  incongruous  shelter. 

Built  by  a  loyal  Roman  citizen  at  the  head 
of  the  Customs  in  A.  D.  164,  it  was  erected  in 
honor  of  the  Emperor  Marcus  Aurelius.  Such 
parts  of  the  splendid  structure  as  were  yet 
visible  above  general  rubbish  were  seen  to  be 
carved  in  relief,  and  the  whole,  even  in  degra- 
dation, shows  the  vast  conception  and  charac- 
teristic solidity  of  construction  which  can  smile 
on  the  centuries  and  calmly  withstand  the 
bufferings  of  nature  and  far  more  cruel  man. 

68 


The  most  superb  relic  ...  is  the  four-sided  triumphal  arch 


ROMAN  ARCH,  ANCIENT  REMAINS 

"  Victory/'  a  graceful  female  figure,  stands  in 
a  car  drawn  by  two  winged  sphinxes ;  various 
trophies  of  arms  may  still  be  traced,  a  Roman 
eagle  on  a  helmet,  and  the  Latin  inscription :  — 

IMP  •  CAES  •  M  •  AVRELIO  •  ANTONIN  •  AVG  •  P  •  P  •  ET  • 
IMP-  CAES-  L-  AVRELIO-  VERO-  ARMENIACO-  AVG- 

SER  •  CORNELIVS  •  ORFITVS  •  PROCOS  •  CVM  •  VITTEDIO  • 
MARCELLO-  LEG-  SVO-  DEDICAVIT- 

C  •  CALPVRNIVS  •  CELSVS  •  CVRATOR  •  MVNERIS  •  PVB  • 
MVNERARIVS-  II-  VIR-  QQ-  FLAMEN-  PERPETWS- 

ARCVM-  PECVNIA-SVA-LOCO-  PVBLICO-  A-|FVNDAMENTTS- 
EX-  MARMORE-  SOLIDO-  FECIT-* 

Several  words  in  the  last  line  are  nearly  oblit- 
erated. The  African  fondness  for  whitewash 
which  buries  carvings,  Moorish  tiles,  beauty 
of  all  kinds  beneath  its  deadly  touch,  has  not 
spared  the  noble  arch,  of  course;  and  all  the 

1  Full  text  and  translation  of  the  inscription  have  been  kindly  supplied 
by  my  husband's  colleague,  Dr.  Houghton: 

Imperatori  Caesari  Marco  Aurelio  Antonino  Augusto  patri  patriae  et 
Imperatori  Caesari  Lucio  Aurelio  Vero  Armeniaco  Augusto  Servius  Cor- 
nelius Orfitus  proconsul  cum  Vittedio  Marcello  legato  suo  dedicavit.  Caius 
Calpurnius  Celsus  curator  muneris  public!  munerarius  duumvir  quinquen- 
nalis  flamen  perpetuus  arcum  pecunia  sua  loco  publico  a  fundamentis  ex 
marmore  solido  fecit. 

Servius  Cornelius  Orfitus  proconsul,  together  with  Vittedius  Marcellus  his 
lieutenant  flegatus],  dedicated  [this  arch]  to  the  imperial  Caesar  Marcus  Aure- 
lius  Antoninus  Augustus,  father  of  his  Country,  and  to  the  imperial  Caesar 
Lucius  A  urelius  Verus  A  rmeniacus  A  ugustus.  Caius  Calpurnius  Celsus,  keeper 
of  the  public  funds,  bestower  of  gifts,  duumvir  quinquennalis,  flamen  for  life, 
erected  [this]  arch  in  a  public  place,  built  of  solid  marble  from  the  foundations, 
at  his  own  expense. 

" Munerarius,"  a  giver  of  public  games.  "Quinquennalis,"  holding  office 
for  five  years.  " A.  "  flamen  "  was  a  priest  of  one  particular  deity.  Fourth 
line  of  the  inscription  literally:  arch  at  his  own  expense  in  a  public  place  from 
the  foundations  of  solid  marble  he  made.  Corpus  Inscriptionum  Latinarum, 
viii,  I,  24  reads  VTTEDIO  instead  of  VITTEDIO. 

69 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
time  stealthy  desert  sands  have  drifted  in, 
burying  more  and  more  of  the  stately  relic  as 
years  go  on.  But  it  gave  veritable  heartache 
to  see  so  majestic  a  structure  subject  to  the 
vandal  touch  of  ignorance  so  consummate. 

Well-preserved  pavements  are  found  outside 
the  city,  ancl  evidence  is  everywhere  apparent 
even  to  the  most  casual  that  remains  of  a  once 
triumphal  Roman  occupation  are  but  super- 
ficially overlaid  by  the  sordid  life  of  a  poly- 
glot community,  lacking  all  appreciation  for 
the  stately  memorials  of  a  magnificent  past. 

Mr.  H.  S.  Cowper's  book,  entitled  "The 
Hill  of  the  Graces/'  contains  much  valuable 
information  on  all  the  ancient  remains,  which 
he  visited  and  studied  as  carefully  as  a  watch- 
ful government  allowed.  Oases,  deserts,  sand 
dunes,  all  tell,  perhaps  blindly  an3  unwillingly, 
but  none  the  less  certainly,  a  story  centuries 
old,  half  forgotten,  overlaid,  yet  patiently  wait- 
ing interpretation. 

Mr.  Cowper  considers  many  of  the  senams 
as  far  older  than  Roman  days,  finding  traces 

70 


ROMAN  ARCH,  ANCIENT  REMAINS 

even  of  a  prehistoric  stone  age,  in  a  remarkable 
series  of  megalithic  monuments  which  he  com- 
pares with  Stonehenge;  he  believes  it  not  im- 
possible that  the  worship  of  the  trilithonic 
symbol  may  even  have  ma9e  its  way  from 
Africa  to  Salisbury  Plain.  The  senams,  a 
word  in  Arabic  meaning  "  idol,"  are  door-like 
structures  of  dressed  stone,  a  characteristic 
feature  of  the  ruins,  and  may  have  originated 
with  a  race  living  here  long  before  the  Roman 
annexation  of  Regio  Tripolitana. 

Probably  the  climate  differed  in  those  far- 
away days,  as  certain  faint  indications  show. 
There  is  a  popular  belief  in  the  city  that  open- 
ing the  Suez  Canal  is  perhaps  the  chief  cause. 
There  was  certainly  more  wooded  country,  con- 
taining more  streams  which  later  and  more 
careless  inhabitants  have  allowed  to  perish. 
At  present  there  is  not  one  perennial  stream 
properly  called  a  river.  In  the  rainy  season 
many  a  wadi  or  river-bed  fills  with  a  rush- 
ing tide;  and  when  in  February  of  1904  a 
cloudburst  nearly  submerged  the  city,  all  the 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

sandy  lanes  became  torrent  beds,  bringing 
much  devastation. 

If  all  the  ruined  temples  were  in  use  at  any 
one  time,  the  population  of  Tarhuna  and 
M'  Salata  must  have  equaled  London  at  least. 
Even  if  some  of  them  were  built  in  different 
ages,  the  numbers  must  have  been  very  great. 
There  are  fine  ruins  at  Garia  el-Sergia  and 
Garia  el-Garbia,  south  and  west  of  Tripoli. 
Farther  in  the  same  direction  are  Zellah  and 
Tirsa,  where  ostriches  are  raised.  For  long 
years  all  digging  for  archaeological  material 
was  forbidden  by  the  Turkish  government,  as 
already  mentioned,  but  despite  restrictions  a 
good  deal  of  quiet  investigation  went  on;  and 
of  Roman  remains,  fine  if  headless  statues 
often  came  to  light,  bas-reliefs  of  much  mag- 
nificence, inscriptions  and  columns  in  good 
condition  after  long  burial  in  the  sands. 

Near  Horns,  a  center  for  the  export  of 
halfa,  or  esparto,  a  sort  of  grass  much  used 
for  matting  and  paper,  are  the  ruins  of  Leptis 
Magna  (Lebda),  founded  by  Sidonians  only  a 

72 


*  *  **•>>>   >       '  1  * 


ROMAN  ARCH,  ANCIENT  REMAINS 

century  after  Rome,  and  for  a  time  a  rival  of 
Carthage  herself.  The  principal  ruins  of 
Lebda  lie  about  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream 
or  what  should  be  a  stream  (wadi  Lebda). 
On  account  of  rabid  vandalism,  not  only  Arab 
but  European,  little  remains  of  its  early  splen- 
dor. It  is  said  that  in  the  eighteenth  century 
Louis  XIV  obtained  from  the  government  of 
Tripoli  permission  to  export  to  Paris  whatever 
he  chose  from  Lebda.  Many  priceless  columns 
adorn  the  church  of  S.  Germain-des-Pres. 

According  to  a  pamphlet  on  North  Africa 
by  Lieutenant-Commander  Gorringe,  United 
States  Navy,  published  by  the  American  Geo- 
graphical Society  in  1881,  Admiral  Smyth  of 
the  English  Navy  removed  many  more,  after- 
ward placed  in  the  Royal  Gardens  at  Windsor. 
Those  remaining,  which  should  have  been 
matchless  memorials  of  a  great  past,  have  been 
mutilated  and  destroyed  by  vandalism  not 
wholly  Arabic.  Enough  may  yet  be  seen,  how- 
ever, to  show  the  dignity  and  glory  of  that 
early  city. 

73 


XII 

To  THE  CAVES 

An  hour  or  two  from  Tripoli,  near  Ghir- 
garesh,  are  curious  caves  which  might  once 
have  sheltered  an  army  of  troglodytes.  Camels 
were  decidedly  the  best  conveyance,  but  we 
once  had  excellent  donkeys  for  the  trip,  and 
at  another  time  tried  the  bone-racking  araba, 
whose  merry  curtains  effectively  kept  out  all 
breezes  and  conserved  the  heat  to  a  discour- 
aging extent 

Out  of  the  city  through  narrow  lanes  be- 
tween high  muH  walls,  over  which  pome- 
granate and  Barbary  fig,  gray  olive  and  plumy 
palm  waved  and  blossomed  or  offered  fruit 
and  shade,  into  the  sand  of  the  "  Tunis  road  " 
we  plunged.  Here  and  there  the  winds  had 
blown  bare  underlying  rock,  "the  bleached 
bones  of  the  world  "  unwittingly  protruding  in 

74 


TO   THE   CAVES 

grooves,  ridges  and  gullies.  Palms  accentu- 
ated the  dazzling  landscape.  Without  this  all- 
important  tree,  desert  and  oasis  life  would  be 
well-nigh  impossible.  Kindling  wood  and 
building  material  from  its  trunk,  baskets, 
ropes,  brushes  from  the  branches,  the  date 
palm  supplies  also  the  chief  article  of  food, 
shade  as  well  as  fans,  and  lakbe,  an  intoxi- 
cating beverage. 

There  was  no  real  road,  but  the  route  lay 
along  the  shore  past  several  beautiful  domes  of 
marabout  tombs.  These  smaller  domes  over 
the  bones  of  holy  men  are  numerous  in  all  the 
city  environs.  Each  is  frequently  covered  with 
bright  flags  brought  by  Moslem  women  when 
a  longed-for  happiness  has  come,  or  when  some 
one  near  and  dear  has  recovered  from  illness. 

Old  wells,  guardians  of  walled  gardens,  ap- 
peared frequently  between  sea  and  desert,  each 
giving  its  oddly  vocal  squeak  as  the  goatskin 
was  let  down  empty  or  pulled  up  filled,  cow 
and  man  gravely  walking  up  and  down  the  hill 
together.  Each  garden  was  carefully  watched 

75 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

and  tended.  The  Arabs  have  a  proverb  that 
no  palm  tree  will  bear  unless  it  hears  daily  the 
voice  of  its  owner. 

One  of  the  numerous  Turkish  forts  lay  in 
this  direction,  where  idle  soldiers  in  bright  red 
sashes  and  picturesque  rags  lounged  over  their 
mud  barricades  and  peeped  through  cactus 
hedges,  Poor  fellows!  Their  life  was  the 
acme  of  monotony.  Belted  and  befezzed,  even 
the  passing  of  half  a  dozen  strangers  was  of 
interest  in  a  day  devoid  of  incident. 

Just  here  a  sharp  skirmish  was  fought  with 
the  Italians  late  in  1911,  which  successfully 
banished  monotony. 

Before  reaching  Ghirgaresh  a  strange,  proba- 
bly pre-Mohammedan,  ruin  rises  from  the  sand 
high  into  modern  sunlight  in  singular  isolation. 
Its  story  is  untold,  its  crumbling  walls  full  of 
the  echoes  of  a  wonderful  past  for  him  who  can 
interpret.  What  mysterious  uses  could  this 
ancient  stronghold  have  had,  lacking  doors  and 
windows  and  steps  or  any  means  of  entrance? 

This  place  is  mentioned  by  Leo  Africanus; 
76 


Marabout  and  palm 


One  of  the  caves  at  Ghirgarish 


TO   THE   CAVES 

and  the  Arabs  say  the  Emir  Kerakish  built  it 
—  which  might  show  the  derivation  of  the 
name.  One  of  our  drivers,  Balaid,  pulled  him- 
self up  by  fingers  and  toes  to  the  summit,  look- 
ing down  smilingly  from  that  elevation,  but 
without  adding  much  to  an  intelligent  solution 
of  the  mystery. 

Under  the  road  near  by  was  a  large  vaulted 
chamber  for  unknown  purposes,  possibly  used 
as  stables  in  olden  days.  At  our  entrance  dis- 
gusted and  expostulatory  owls  flew  out  with 
whoops  and  a  great  flapping  of  heretofore  un- 
disturbed wings.  Beyond  and  ever  beyond  lay 
an  eternity  of  sand,  drifting,  restless,  covering 
'dead  ruins  and  living  gardens  with  equal  devas- 
tation, silent  and  resistless. 

In  these  barren  lands  I  counted  twenty-six 
kinds  ^f  wild  flowers,  though  a  casual  glance 
would  have  pronounced  the  region  absolutely 
without  vegetation.  Nearly  all  were  small  and 
low,  though  occasional  large  masses  of  a  lovely 
purple  flower  set  in  thick  leaves  wafted  an 
odour  like  catnip  or  mint.  Some  of  its  blossoms 

77 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

were  entirely  white.  The  tiniest  of  morning- 
glories  grew  in  a  thick  tuft ;  there  were  yellow 
blossoms  like  small  thistles  with  prickly  leaves ; 
an  infinitesimal  dandelion  appeared,  and  a 
charming,  bright  blue,  five-petaled  flower  of 
some  entirely  new  species,  a  smaller  one  of  the 
same  exquisite  azure,  with  a  corolla  like  a 
forget-me-not,  only  growing  in  clusters,  many 
blossoms  on  one  stem;  and  a  brilliant  crim- 
son tube,  turning  dull  purple  as  it  faded.  All 
made  a  veritable  wild  garden  in  a  savage 
wilderness  easily  overlooked  unless  one  care- 
fully searched. 

Suddenly,  sunk  in  an  apparently  level  moor- 
land, were  unexpected  depressions,  like  deep 
holes,  down  which  we  climbed  to  find  ourselves 
before  huge  caves,  in  all  over  fifty,  where  the 
air  was  cool  and  dry,  a  different  world  from 
that  of  the  scorching  sunlight  above.  In  tex- 
ture like  hardened  sand,  the  rock  was  never- 
theless exceedingly  solid,  apparently  water- 
worn,  in  places  grotesquely  shaped,  some  of 
the  caves  of  natural  origin,  others  quite  prob- 

78 


TO   THE   CAVES 

ably  old  quarries.  Low,  flat  arches  led  still 
farther  down  and  in,  made  centuries  ago  by 
human  hands.  More  modern  workmen  had 
chiseled  other  marks  and  removed  huge  blocks 
of  stone.  Swallows  and  bats  protested  madly 
at  our  intrusion,  and  while  we  studied  the 
strange  pillars,  arches,  ceilings  and  inscrip- 
tions, our  Arabs  spread  a  delicious  luncheon, 
subsequently  scouring  the  dishes  thriftily  in 
sand.  They  have  learned  not  to  waste  precious 
water  superfluously. 

On  one  of  these  trips  the  French  Consul  was 
our  host,  and  with  us  rode  the  French  astron- 
omer Libert. 

The  caves  are  very  near  the  sea,  and  sunset 
effects  were  remarkable  on  water-worn  rocks, 
gentle  surf  and  far  reaches  of  sand  toward 
the  white  city  itself  in  rosy  distance. 


79 


XIII 
WELLS  AND  GARDENS 

Primitive  wells  for  irrigating  gardens  are 
scattered  about,  a  patient  cow  walking  all  day 
up  and  down  a  little  hill,  letting  an  empty  goat- 
skin into  cooling  depths,  only  to  bring  it  over- 
flowing to  the  surface.  The  goatskin,  or 
leather  bottle,  is  shaped  like  a  funnel,  closed 
at  the  narrow  end,  and  lowered  by  ropes  over 
rough  wooden  cylinders,  themselves  supported 
by  masonry  pillars  nine  or  ten  feet  high.  A 
cow,  the  all-day  motive  power,  is  hardly  more 
patient  than  the  faithful  attendant  Arab. 
There  are  said  to  be  approximately  more  than 
eight  thousand  wells  in  Tripoli  and  its  en- 
virons, but  owing  to  Arabic  dislike  of  accurate 
estimate,  the  actual  number  may  be  even 
greater. 

Every  garden  had  its  well  and  simple  system 
80 


WELLS   AND   GARDENS 

of  irrigation,  and  high  mud  walls  against  the 
ever-encroaching  sand.  Over  the  dull  gray 
barrier  scarlet  pomegranate  blossoms,  oleander, 
palms,  even  climbing  roses  peeped  at  the  passer 
below,  hinting  of  lavish  joys  within.  But  anti- 
quated methods  had  never  been  superseded, 
and  ambition  was  unknown.  Even  lubrication 
of  the  simple  well-apparatus  was  neglected,  and 
each  had  its  distinctive  squeak  —  one  a  high 
G,  others  giving  different  tones,  occasionally 
two  or  three  in  succession,  making  little  melo- 
dies all  their  own.  A  blind  man  might  have 
learned  to  know  his  whereabouts  by  these 
pseudo-tunes  and  their  variations. 

Certain  old  Latin  authors  have  written  of 
the  marvelous  fertility  of  the  soil;  and  only  a 
little  water  and  comparatively  slight  labor 
would  now  be  needed  for  abundant  yield. 
Date  palms  were  of  course  the  chief  reliance, 
but  olives,  pomegranates,  oranges,  bananas  and 
apricots  grew  luxuriantly;  and  we  were  fre- 
quently offered  excellent  native  watermelons. 

A  sad  little  sight  on  the  outskirts  was  a  tiny 
81 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

garden  whose  owner  must  have  died,  for  the 
wall  had  fallen  in  a  dozen  breaks  and  had  not 
been  repaired.  The  well  was  silent,  the  reser- 
voir empty.  Through  every  opening  the  piled- 
up  sand  was  drifting,  drifting,  and  the  desert 
had  almost  claimed  its  own.  Yet  a  few  flowers 
and  fruits  still  struggled  on,  obviously  worsted, 
certain  to  be  ultimately  overwhelmed,  but 
thrusting  pathetically  hopeful  blossoms  and 
fresh  leaves  above  their  silent  and  resistless 
foe. 

The  gardens  of  wealthy  Arabs,  both  Jewish 
and  Mohammedan,  were  veritable  beauty  spots, 
luxuriant  and  magnificent.  Always  a  central 
pond,  with  goldfish  and  fountain,  surrounded 
by  blossoming  water-plants,  formed  the  reser- 
voir from  which  small  irrigating  canals  tra- 
versed the  whole  garden  space,  where  flowers 
bloomed  lavishly  and  golden  oranges  filled  the 
trees.  One  could  imagine  himself  in  a  semi- 
tropical  region  of  the  utmost  richness,  where 
no  memory  of  the  ever-moving,  tireless  sand 
could  intrude.  But  the  high  mud  wall  has 

82 


WELLS   AND   GARDENS 

only  to  present  the  smallest  break  for  doom 
to  enter. 

Tripoli  gardens  should  form  a  small  volume 
in  themselves,  beginning  with  a  description  of 
the  great  Turkish  garden  where  the  band  dis- 
coursed astonishing  music  every  afternoon, 
while  we  took  our  afternoon  tea — or  coffee — in 
a  pretty  pavilion  or  in  the  shade  of  palm  trees. 

Late  one  afternoon  we  drove  out  by  invita- 
tion to  the  country  place  of  a  wealthy  Arab, 
whose  garden  was  famous.  Past  the  well- 
remembered  and  mysterious  black  holes  which 
go  down  to  unknown  depths,  supposed  to  be 
ancient  silos,  or  places  for  cutting  up  grain  and 
food  for  animals,  we  reached  the  airy  villa  of 
our  aim.  High  walls  completely  shut  away  the 
outside  world.  Brilliant  zinnias  were  in  full 
blossom,  dahlias  and  geraniums,  with  the  usual 
orange  and  fig  trees,  olive  and  lemon,  pome- 
granates and  palm.  Our  host  was  much  inter- 
ested in  what  American  gardens  could  produce, 
and  asked  for  minute  descriptions  of  such 
flowers  as  he  did  not  know. 

83 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
Lanes  and  roads  leading  out  of  the  city  to 
the  gardens  were  endlessly  attractive  and 
newly  delightful  each  time  we  drove  or  am- 
bled down  their  sandy  ways.  Enormous  old 
cactus  plants,  often  quite  trees,  crowned  high 
and  frequently  crumbling  walls,  over  which 
gray  olives  swung.  Splendid  horses,  sumptu- 
ously decorated  with  silver  and  leather,  with 
long,  flowing  tails,  bearing  companies  of  Arabs 
or  Turks,  were  liable  to  be  met  in  the  narrowest 
lanes,  as  well  as  droves  of  camels,  donkeys  or 
goats. 

Decaying  adobe  mosques,  marabouts,  vil- 
lages, were  passed  as  we  went  onward  into 
the  open  one  late  afternoon,  and  to  the  highest 
hill  in  Tripoli,  which  gave  a  wide  view  over 
miles  of  palms  off  to  the  ciesert.  Two  men 
were  winnowing  grain  by  tossing  it  up  from  a 
flat  basket  for  the  wind  to  blow  away  the  chaff, 
a  method  used  by  farmers  in  New  England 
less  than  a  century  ago.  Up  the  bare  hill  slope 
we  rode  where  the  wind  blew  with  a  lonely 
swish  across  the  red,  hard-baked  hillside.  By 

84 


WELLS   AND   GARDENS 

more  narrow  lanes  we  veered  across  a  rather 
pleasant,  because  partly  irrigated,  country, 
with  olive  trees  and  bright  green  lucerne,  to 
the  Jewish  village,  Amrus. 

Most  of  the  men  were  blacksmiths,  and  had 
brought  from  the  shore  all  manner  of  old 
anchors  of  huge  proportions  to  work  over  into 
implements.  A  closely  built  village  with  adobe 
houses  treading  on  each  other's  toes  in  the 
narrowest  of  streets  —  though  there  is  all  out- 
doors to  expand  in  —  the  synagogue,  finest  of 
their  buildings,  was  open  for  evening  prayers. 

The  "  oven  "  was  central  meeting  ground  for 
men,  women,  babies  and  all,  and  here  in  the 
fitful  firelight  much  gossip  was  going  on,  as  all 
clustered  about  to  watch  the  baking.  A  stone 
showing  a  half -obliterated  Roman  inscription 
was  in  use  as  a  seat,  and  large  round  platforms 
of  masonry  held  stone  rollers  for  crushing 
olives  collected  from  the  orchards  all  about. 
Oil  is  made  in  the  most  primitive  manner 
possible. 

From  the  open  country,  returning  sunset 
85 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

drives  formed  one  of  our  loveliest  experiences. 
Facing  the  wonderful  yellow  west,  palms, 
mosques  and  minarets  were  drawn  against  it 
in  enchanting  silhouette;  homeward-bound 
Arabs,  swathed  in  white,  were  riding  small 
donkeys  or  perched  on  camels,  pretty  boys 
trudging  beside  them  through  the  sand.  And 
ever  the  golden  glory  grew  until,  suddenly 
paling,  stars  pricked  through  the  crystalline 
dome  of  that  marvelous  African  firmament, 
though  mysterious  illumination  still  came  from 
somewhere  on  ghostly  mosque  and  tower,  but 
all  else  faded  into  soft  night.  As  it  grew 
darker,  faint  lights  shone  dimly  through  crev- 
ices of  roadside  tombs,  the  plaintive  iteration 
of  the  wells  ceased,  and  we  were  once  more 
absorbed  into  the  narrow  city  streets. 


86 


XIV 
HAREMS  AND  COURTYARDS 

Every  house,  even  the  simplest,  had  its  open 
courtyard,  a  sort  of  patio,  around  which  the 
family  rooms  opened,  thus  preserving  that  non- 
committal, blank  aspect  toward  the  street  so 
characteristic  of  oriental  dwellings.  From  the 
fair  vantage  point  of  the  Consulate  roof  ter- 
race one  might  look  straight  down  into  many 
a  little  courtyard  where  children  and  mothers, 
dogs  and  cats,  had  slept  and  eaten,  rolled,  tum- 
bled and  lived  a  daylight  programme.  Here 
an3  there  such  a  home  spot  was  almost  roofed 
by  passion-flower  vines  in  full  blossom. 
Strange  tinkling  music  ascended,  and  a  happy 
if  restricted  life  filled  them  with  a  certain  sort 
of  pleasantness  all  day  —  deserted  at  evening 
for  the  clear  space  above. 

Many  of  the  harem  courtyards  were  well 
8? 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
paved,  the  wainscot  also  of  handsome  tiles, 
and  there  was  always  a  central  fountain,  or 
fine  tree,  and  blossoming  shrubs.  On  a  visit 
of  invitation  to  one  of  the  best  harems,  I  found 
the  chief  wife  ill,  but  she  sent  for  us  to  her 
room.  In  a  graceful  sort  of  night  drapery  she 
received  us,  wearing  huge  earrings  and  rings, 
her  hair  tied  up  in  a  blue  silk  scarf,  and  re- 
clining on  straw  mats  raised  one  step  above  the 
floor.  She  had  a  pleasant  face  and  spoke  in- 
telligently on  various  simple  subjects.  Coffee 
was  served  at  once. 

No  moving  air  can  penetrate  those  dark  in- 
terior rooms  of  which  the  single  barred  window 
opens  off  the  court.  In  this  particular  home 
the  big  airy  chambers  above,  reached  by  the 
gallery,  were  given  to  the  eldest  son  and  his 
new  wife.  Taste  in  furnishing  was  execrable, 
and  worse  almost  in  proportion  to  the  amount 
of  money  spent.  Cheap  European  finery  and 
tinsel  seemed  taking  the  place  of  earlier  and 
better  oriental  forms  and  colours. 

Another  day  I  went  to  a  house  of  quite  dif- 
ferent social  order,  where  a  poor  woman  with 

88 


HAREMS   AND    COURTYARDS 

a  crooked  spine  had  asked  to  see  the  foreigner.. 
She  was  sewing  at  a  little  machine  low  on  the 
floor,  turned  by  hand,  like  those  used  by 
Malays,  her  knees  higher  than  her  head  —  but 
that  was  apparently  a  favourite  attitude  of  both 
sexes.  A  young  woman  sat  near  nursing  her 
baby,  a  forlorn,  feebly  wailing  mite.  Her  first 
child  sat  out  on  the  courtyard  flagging,  with 
the  usual  diseased  eyes  and  trouble  with  its 
skin.  Flat  on  the  floor  lay  an  old  woman 
sound  asleep,  merely  a  neighbour  in  for  a  while, 
to  take  this  surprising  means  of  promoting 
social  hilarity.  But  she  wore  a  good  deal  of 
jewelry,  was  artistically  tattooed,  and,  upon 
waking,  showed  strong,  short  white  teeth  in  a 
friendly  smile.  The  natives  seemed  to  take 
little  care  of  their  teeth,  yet  preserved  them 
well  into  old  age.  I  do  not  remember  to  have 
seen  a  toothless  Arab. 

The  poor  little  deformed  woman  seemed 
pathetically  glad  to  see  us,  and  began  to  talk  at 
once  of  the  coming  eclipse,  of  her  fear  that  it 
might  injure  her,  and  that  she  should  not  dare 
go  to  the  roof  to  see  it ;  also  asking  me  to  use 

89 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

my  influence  to  render  it  as  harmless  as 
possible. 

The  various  wives  in  each  home  were  appar- 
ently on  good  terms  with  one  another,  though 
each  kept  more  or  less  to  her  own  apartments 
in  the  better  families.  Children  played  ami- 
cably together,  to  whichever  mother  they  might 
belong. 

A  forest  of  thread  hung  up  to  dry  after 
being  dyed  decorated  another  patio,  and  a 
pretty  girl  was  winding  reels  and  bobbins  in 
the  shade.  An  old  woman  was  similarly  em- 
ployed; and  another  was  combing  rough 
lambs'  wool  with  several  kinds  of  spiked 
brushes.  The  chief  room  was  full  of  gold 
Turkish  embroideries  in  pillows,  cushions  and 
divans,  and  ornamenting  the  wall.  Heavily 
curtained  beds  occupied  the  end,  one  above 
another. 

Generally  the  courtyards  were  fairly  clean 
and  often  beautifully  paved,  though  white- 
washing had  nearly  covered  most  of  the  wall- 
tiles.  At  one  house  a  middle-aged  woman  sat 
on  the  platform  sifting  queer  flour  through  a 

90 


a 

*n 


HAREMS   AND    COURTYARDS 

series  of  sieves.  Ultimately  the  chaff  was 
separated  from  the  coarse  flour,  that  in  turn 
from  the  finer.  A  fat  woman  was  washing 
clothes  in  a  big,  shallow  bowl  on  the  floor,  bend- 
ing quite  double  from  the  hips  to  reach  it.  No 
reason  was  apparent  why  she  should  not  have 
had  it  set  up  on  something.  A  rather  attractive 
young  girl  was  crocheting  lace,  while  a  wizened 
little  old  woman  made  an  incredibly  small  bun- 
dle of  herself,  grinding  coffee  in  a  tiny  brass 
mill.  Children  were,  as  usual,  scattered  about 
promiscuously.  All  the  women  were  heavily 
laden  with  necklaces  and  bracelets ;  huge  ear- 
rings (gold  and  silver  circles)  were  often  hung 
from  three  or  four  holes  in  each  ear.  One 
young  married  woman  was  elaborately  self- 
tattooed.  Shoes  were  removed  to  go  into  the 
open  rooms,  and  a  white  sheepskin  was  brought 
for  us  to  sit  upon. 

Industrious  and  fairly  happy  they  all  seemed, 
with  a  good  deal  more  of  the  home-making 
spirit  and  atmosphere  than  might  have  been 
anticipated. 


XV 
ARAB  WEDDINGS 

The  peculiar  sound  indicating  joy,  or  a  happy 
event  about  to  take  place,  filled  the  narrow 
streets.  It  was  shortly  after  midnight,  and  my 
first  nap  was  at  its  deepest. 

The  day  had  been  a  busy  one,  filled  with 
visits  in  harems,  ending  with  a  Consulate  din- 
ner and  coffee  at  the  Marina.  At  first  the 
strange  cry  but  dimly  pierced  consciousness. 
Then  I  woke  more  fully,  and  running  to  the 
window  over  the  chilly  stone  floor,  climbed  into 
its  wide  embrasure  and  looked  out.  The  weird 
cry  continued  to  fill  the  darkness,  an3  a  large 
crowd  had  gathered,  servants  with  flaring 
torches  marching  ahead  of  two  or  three  open 
carriages,  drawn  by  fine  Arabian  horses  — 
equipages  unusual  enough  in  themselves  in 
1900  to  have  attracted  excited  attention. 
Within  the  first  sat  a  lady  wrapped  in  a  lovely 

92 


ARAB    WEDDINGS 

white  silk  barracan,  two  black  women  servants 
with  her,  to  whose  elastic  throats  the  pene- 
trating tremolo  was  due.  Behind  came  other 
servants  and  carriages,  the  procession  followed 
by  a  motley  crowd  of  onlookers. 

This  joyful  company  proved  to  consist  of 
the  mother  of  a  prospective  bridegroom,  who 
with  her  servants  and  friends  was  announcing 
to  the  world  that  a  new  daughter-in-law  was 
about  to  come  to  her  home. 

The  sound  itself  is  made  far  back  in  the 
throat  by  women  who  add  a  strange  and  pene- 
trating quiver,  almost  impossible  to  copy,  a 
weirdly  joyous  effect  indescribable.  The  same 
sound  is  made  for  other  kinds  of  approaching 
good,  as  when  some  old  person  has  at  last  saved 
money  enough  to  get  to  Mecca  and  is  about  to 
start.  He  or  she  always  hopes  that  death  may 
come  in  the  sacred  city,  one  old  woman  I  saw 
just  leaving  for  her  journey  being  pathetically 
eager  to  get  there  before  her  failing  limbs 
should  utterly  collapse. 

The  glad  tidings  of  an  imminent  wedding 
93 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

thus  announced,  the  next  night  (Thursday,  a 
favorite  night  for  weddings)  another  and 
larger  procession  filled  the  streets  usually  so 
quiet,  men  in  ghostly  barracans  leading  the 
merry-makers.  Following  were  numerous 
blacks,  Sudanese  from  the  south,  beating 
drums,  burning  red  fire  and  letting  off  some- 
thing in  the  nature  of  firecrackers ;  a  company 
of  small  boys  marched  at  the  side  bearing  aloft 
lanterns  and  torches.  The  happy  bridegroom 
walked  in  the  midst,  taking  this  cheerful  fare- 
well of  bachelorhood.  For  hours  the  parading 
victim  and  his  friends  traversed  the  streets  in 
general  jollification,  ended  by  his  giving  them 
a  fine  banquet  toward  three  in  the  morning  at 
some  cafe  or  public  house. 

While  these  obvious  events  were  in  progress 
on  the  second  night,  the  bride  was  being  quietly 
conveyed  by  her  friends  to  the  bridegroom's 
house,  with  a  less  noticeable  flourish  of  trum- 
pets but  none  the  less  jubilee,  and  placed  in 
charge  of  his  mother.  She  had  probably  never 
seen  her  prospective  lord  or  any  other  man  ex- 

94 


ARAB   WEDDINGS 

cept  her  father  and  young  brothers  since  early 
childhood.  No  girl  older  than  twelve  or  thir- 
teen goes  into  the  street  even  shrouded,  nor 
until  she  has  been  some  time  married ;  and  she 
may  not,  of  course,  see  any  man  but  the  near- 
est home  relatives  in  the  domestic  courtyard. 

The  two  families  had  arranged  this  suitable 
match.  They  were  of  similar  social  and  finan- 
cial standing,  and  everything  was  perfectly 
understood  and  agreeable  to  all  concerned. 
During  Thursday,  occasionally  the  day  before, 
the  bridegroom  will  have  gone  to  the  mosque 
for  certain  formalities,  but  it  is  never  neces- 
sary for  the  bride  to  appear  there. 

On  Friday  occurs  the  real  celebration  —  that 
part  of  the  ceremony  most  interesting  to  the 
visitor;  and  to  this  I  was  formally  bidden,  a 
summons  not  to  be  lightly  regarded.  One  of 
the  best  houses  in  Tripoli,  the  central  court- 
yard was  finely  paved  with  pale  green  tiles, 
balconies  and  woodwork  matching  the  same 
delicate  shade.  Windows  and  open  doorways 
gave  access  to  the  rooms  within ;  and  all  avail- 

95 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
able    space  —  galleries,    rooms,    court  —  was 
filled  with   female   friends  of  the  high  con- 
tracting parties. 

In  a  line  around  the  sides  sat  forty  or  fifty 
women,  attractively  youthful  in  aspect,  but 
powdered  to  ghastly  whiteness,  and  with  vivid 
crimson  triangles  painted  on  either  cheek. 
Their  eyebrows  were  heavily  emphasized  in 
black,  meeting  above  the  nose  and  extending 
across  the  temples  to  the  hair.  Brilliant  ani- 
line dyes,  so  dearly  loved  in  the  East  that  they 
have  nearly  superseded  the  soft  old  vegetable 
colours  of  a  more  artistic  past,  appeared  in 
dazzling  combination.  Short  skirts,  full  trou- 
sers, blouses,  sleeveless  jackets,  silk  and  velvet, 
all  thickly  embroidered  in  gold  and  silver, 
showed  every  conceivable  colour  —  crimson, 
pink,  scarlet,  yellow,  cobalt-blue,  grass-green 
—  until  brocades  and  gauze,  flowers,  chains, 
bracelets,  all  melted  into  one  bewildering  whole, 
overpoweringly  brilliant,  gaudy,  theatrical., 

The  little  bride,  rigidly  immovable  as  the 
changeless  etiquette  of  centuries  has  decreed, 

96 


ARAB   WEDDINGS 

center  of  all  eyes,  sat  in  a  conspicuous  position 
among  these  very  gorgeous  attendant  ladies, 
herself  more  magnificent  than  any,  a  veritable 
riot  of  colour.  Her  velvets  and  silks  in 
trousers  and  blouse,  the  silver  gauze  floating 
from  her  tightly  braided  black  hair,  the  brocade 
vest,  gilt  slippers,  pounds  of  earrings  hanging 
from  half  a  dozen  holes  in  each  ear,  yards  of 
golden  sequins  wound  about  her  slender  throat, 
and  equal  yards  of  flower  corollas  woven  in 
chains,  and  depending  in  festoons  about  her 
white  and  crimson  cheeks  —  each  was  bigger 
or  longer  or  brighter  or  heavier  than  those  of 
the  others,  as  indeed  was  quite  fitting  for  this 
one  great  epoch  in  her  life. 

Utterly  quiet  indeed  sat  the  youthful  bride, 
her  hands,  henna-dyed  to  reddish  blackness, 
painted  with  gold  in  conventional  pattern  to 
the  wrist,  outspread  upon  her  knees,  while  a 
lady  at  each  side  fanned  her  with  assiduous 
devotion  in  the  breathless  heat.  No  turn  of  the 
head  or  motion  of  an  eyelid  indicated  that  she 
was  aware  of  her  exalted  position,  and  when 

97 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
the  sun,  creeping  around  in  his  downward 
path,  sent  one  straight  arrow-shaft  directly 
into  her  face,  not  a  wink  or  blink  disturbed  her 
open-eyed  composure.  The  two  nearest  at- 
tendants, however,  after  anxiously  looking  at 
one  another  for  an  instant,  appeared  to  come 
to  the  unanimous  decision  that  this  was  an 
occasion  (demanding  heroic  action;  and  gently 
pushing  the  bride  to  an  upright  position,  placed 
one  of  her  feet  before  the  other,  bearing  most 
of  her  weight  upon  their  own  shoulders,  and 
finally  succeeded  in  steering  her  across  the 
courtyard  to  a  seat  on  the  shady  side,  like  a 
particularly  stiff-jointed  doll. 

Meantime  black  women  from  the  desert, 
seated  flat  upon  the  tiled  floor,  continued  to 
beat  upon  tom-toms  and  pound  cymbals,  accom- 
panied by  a  most  barbarous  chant,  which  ap- 
peared to  give  great  satisfaction  to  the  guests, 
most  of  whom  were  regaling  themselves  at 
bowls  of  cus-cus  and  other  delicacies,  each  with 
her  long-handled  spoon. 

During  certain  hours  for  three  days  this  sitting 


ARAB   WEDDINGS 

in  state  would  continue,  and  for  a  month  or  more 
the  new  daughter-in-law  would  be  the  guest  of 
honour,  waited  upon,  watched  with  much  at- 
tention, and  allowed  no  part  in  work  or  worry. 

The  bridal  chamber  was  very  magnificent 
with  rugs  and  divans,  gold-embroidered  pil- 
lows, curtains,  the  walls  draped  with  oriental 
hangings  —  and  everywhere  were  women  an3 
babies  and  toddling  children,  examining,  eat- 
ing, laughing,  contented,  joyous. 

The  bride's  father  had  had  the  four  regu- 
lation wives,  and  was  once  the  proud  parent 
of  over  fifty  children,  but  only  about  fourteen 
had  lived  beyond  babyhood :  a  small  family  for 
Mohammedan  Tripoli,  as  he  sadly  told  me  on 
another  occasion. 

Most  picturesque  of  all  the  figures  among 
the  wedding  guests  were  three  or  four 
Bedouins  from  the  desert,  brown-faced,  dark- 
eyed  women,  the  impress  of  weather  upon  their 
russet-red  cheeks,  and  hands  and  arms,  hair 
and  throats  were  weighted  with  silver  chains, 
their  ears  heavy  with  silver  ornaments,  a  life- 

99 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

time's  wealth.  They  seemed  intensely  inter- 
ested in  the  lighter-haired  stranger  and  her 
peculiar  clothes,  intimating  by  quite  intelligible 
signs  that  they  would  like  to  have  their  pictures 
taken  with  the  little  camera  they  noticed  under 
her  arm,  posing  themselves  like  eager  children. 

I  had  hoped  to  get  a  few  photographs  of 
this  striking  scene,  but  had  not  attempted  it, 
knowing  the  superstitious  feeling  of  many 
Arabs  on  the  subject.  Now,  however,  I  spoke 
to  the  hostess,  the  bridegroom's  mother, 
through  my  companion,  an  English  lady  ac- 
complished in  Arabic,  and  asked  if  I  might  be 
permitted  to  take  a  photograph  or  two. 

After  a  moment  of  interpreting,  her  mean- 
ing was  quite  clear  —  there  was  no  objection 
to  my  taking  anything  so  long  as  I  omitted  the 
bride;  she  was  quite  sure  her  son  would  not 
like  his  new  wife's  face  to  be  caught  in  a 
camera :  otherwise  I  might  take  what  I  chose. 
The  light,  however,  was  already  waning,  so 
that  I  exposed  but  three  films;  and  bidding 
adieu  to  the  festive  scene,  I  retreated. 

100 


ARAB   WEDDINGS 

That  evening  as  we  were  finishing  our  din- 
ner about  eight  o'clock,  came  a  distracted  Arab 
gentleman  of  charming  manners  but  much  per- 
turbation of  spirit,  bringing  as  interpreter  one 
of  the  English  residents.  Talking  with  great 
rapidity,  his  fez  very  much  on  one  side,  his 
face  the  picture  of  woe,  he  confided  ghastly 
fears  for  his  life.  Speedily  translated  into 
English,  the  burden  of  his  tale  appeared  that 
the  husbands  of  all  the  ladies  who  were  guests 
at  his  wedding  festivities  had  each  taken  an 
alarm  lest  his  particular  wives  might  have  been 
photographed  when  I  turned  the  camera  on  the 
various  balconies  and  groups. 

"  And  now  they  lie  in  wait  for  me  at  every 
corner/'  he  continued,  his  face  pale  and  drawn. 
"  There  will  be  feuds  and  family  disturbances 
for  generations,  and  bloodshed"  he  went  on 
excitedly.  "  They  will  have  my  life !  " 

"  That  is  certainly  unpleasant/'  I  said,  "  and 
embarrassing  for  you;  but  why  should  they 
take  my  innocent  little  camera  so  seriously?  " 

"Ah,  but  a  man  might  develop  the  nega- 
101 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
tives,"  he  replied,  "  and  so  see  their  faces  — 
or  you  might  show  them  when  you  get  home 
(is  it  so  far?) ;  or  some  —  some  man  (a  Chris- 
tian!) might  see  those  faces.  And  they  will 
not  forgive  that  it  was  in  my  house  these  fatali- 
ties occurred."  And  the  poor  fellow,  who  had 
a  fine,  open  face,  almost  wrung  his  hands  in 
the  extremity  of  his  distress. 

Seeing  that  it  behooved  me  if  possible  to 
rescue  him  from  all  his  horrors,  I  told  him  he 
might  have  the  films  from  the  camera,  just  as 
they  were,  undeveloped.  Then  there  could  be 
no  danger  of  my  carrying  away  forbidden  faces 
to  any  lands  where  they  might  be  looked  upon 
by  the  unregenerate. 

He  beamed  with  joy,  pocketed  them  radi- 
antly, and  with  a  thousand  thanks  bowed  him- 
self out  into  the  waiting  retributions  of  the 
night,  now  shorn  of  their  powers. 

The  eager  development  of  the  film  revealed 
no  record. 


1 02 


XVI 

WEDDING  PRELIMINARIES 

The  early  days  of  a  wedding  week  were  full 
of  strange  interest. 

On  Monday  festivities  usually  began  at  the 
bride's  home.  On  arrival  we  found  a  great  as- 
semblage of  very  resplendent  ladies  in  yards  of 
gold  coins  and  necklaces,  incredibly  heavy  ear- 
rings, bracelets  to  the  elbow  of  the  usual  soft, 
thick  gold;  silver  and  gold  gauze,  and  blue, 
green,  crimson  or  yellow  silk;  violently  painted 
faces,  sleeveless  jackets  of  royal  purple  or  wine- 
coloured  velvet,  embroidered  thickly  in  gold, 
with  silk  barracans  lightly  draped.  Here  anct 
there  were  other  brown  Bedouins,  fascinating 
creatures  with  short,  strong  white  teeth,  red 
handkerchiefs  tied  coquettishly  over  their 
black  hair,  pounds  of  silver  clasps  and  chains, 
earrings  and  bracelets;  bare  feet  and  open, 
trustful  faces. 

103 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Some  of  the  ladies  were  tightly  wrapped  in 
thin  white  barracans,  hardly  the  one  allowable 
eye  exposed.  They  stood  timidly  together, 
most  careful  not  to  let  their  faces  be  seen  even 
for  an  instant,  though  none  but  women  were 
present.  Certain  husbands  in  Tripoli  were 
known  as  especially  opposed  to  their  wives  ever 
venturing  out  of  the  home,  even  tightly 
swathed,  and  were  they  recognized  here,  some 
mischief-making  person  might  report  their 
probably  surreptitious  presence.  It  was  whis- 
pered that  one  or  two  would  probably  then 
receive  a  beating.  On  this  occasion  we  were 
invited  to  the  gallery  and  looked  down  upon 
the  brilliantly  decked  assembly. 

After  a  time  the  door  of  the  bride's  room 
opposite  was  quietly,  cautiously  opened,  the 
negro  women  who  always  supply  music  on 
these  occasions  gathering  around  it,  with  much 
chanting  and  beating  on  drums,  and  with  them 
a  little  girl  carrying  a  lovely  old  silver  lamp 
in  which  incense  was  burning.  First  to  emerge 
were  women  bearing  a  fine  rectangular  cushion 

104 


WEDDING   PRELIMINARIES 

of  crimson  velvet  embroidered  in  gold.  Others 
followed  with  a  bushel  basket  full  of  dried 
henna  leaves.  All  went  carefully  down  the 
stairway  with  their  burdens  into  the  open  court- 
yard below,  placing  the  henna  on  the  central 
cushion. 

A  huge  black  Sudanese  servant  came  next, 
carrying  with  greatest  care  an  immense  mir- 
ror in  a  gilt  frame.  Supported  and  guided  on 
either  hand  by  gorgeous  females  came  the 
shrouded  figure  of  the  bride,  gracefully 
wrapped  in  a  cloth-of-gold  barracan,  brought 
around  to  a  point  on  top  of  her  head,  the  two 
sides  evidently  basted  together,  completely  to 
cover  the  face.  Her  crimson  velvet  slippers 
were  embroidered  in  gold,  and  she  stepped 
slowly  and  cautiously,  both  as  befitted  a  tem- 
porarily blinded  lady,  and  one  occupying  for 
the  time  so  exalted  a  position.  As  close  as 
possible  to  the  mirror  she  was  kept,  facing  it 
all  the  way  around  the  gallery,  still  accom- 
panied by  the  guiding  friend  and  incense 
bearer,  then,  with  some  difficulty,  down  the; 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

stairs.  All  this  occupied  nearly  half  an  hour. 
Once  below,  she  walked  impressively  to  the 
middle  of  the  courtyard,  where  the  mirror  was 
held  close  to  the  cushion  and  its  basket.  Step- 
ping between,  she  seated  herself  in  the  basket 
facing  the  mirror,  her  attendants  adjusting  the 
barracan  for  her  greater  comfort,  and,  once 
seated,  jumping  her  gently  up  and  down  on  the 
yielding  leaves.  The  henna  was  picked  up  in 
handfuls  by  her  friends,  passed  over  her,  given 
into  her  hands  under  her  draperies,  and  put 
entirely  over  and  about  her.  Pressing  her  face 
close  to  the  mirror,  she  opened  the  barracan 
to  gaze  at  herself,  while  her  friends  spread 
their  own  draperies  out  as  a  shield,  that  by  no 
chance  could  a  glimpse  of  her  face  be  caught 
from  any  angle.  This  part  of  the  ceremony 
savoured  greatly  of  mystery,  and  was  evidently 
symbolic.  No  Mohammedan  woman  with 
whom  I  talked,  no  matter  how  friendly  or  how 
long  the  acquaintance,  was  ever  willing  to  ex- 
plain this  performance.  All  seemed  to  regard 
it  as  too  sacred  for  discussion,  and  always 

106 


WEDDING   PRELIMINARIES 

changed  the  subject  if  I  broached  it,  although 
ever  ready  to  talk  upon  all  other  aspects  of 
these  occasions. 

Finally  the  big  black  picked  up  the  mirror 
once  more,  and  began  his  return  march  up- 
ward, bride  and  attendants  following;  cushion 
and  basket  were  removed,  and  the  company  dis- 
persed. The  bride  retreated  to  her  own  room, 
and  the  door  was  fastened,  her  friends  not  be- 
ing supposed  to  see  her  again  until  evening, 
when  the  more  intimate  would  take  supper 
with  her,  in  the  closed  room.  But  as  we  were 
strangers,  and  soon  leaving,  we  were  invited  in 
then  and  there.  The  bride  was  seated  on  the 
floor,  five  or  six  especial  friends  about,  her 
beautiful  barracan  off,  and  wearing  a  pretty 
dress  of  simple  red  and  white  cotton.  She  was 
an  especially  attractive  girl,  bright  and  whole- 
some, with  an  expression  of  humour  and 
strength  rare  in  Tripoli. 

A  fortunate  man,  her  husband  to  be,  who 
had  not  yet  seen  his  new  wife! 


107 


XVII 
ANOTHER  MOHAMMEDAN  WEDDING 

For  two  or  three  nights  we  had  been  again 
aroused  by  weird  processions,  and  the  day  fol- 
lowing the  third,  a  closely  veiled  native  woman 
came  to  escort  us  to  another  "  sitting  out "  of 
a  bride.  It  was  at  a  house  in  an  entirely  un- 
familiar part  of  the  city.  The  streets  were 
narrower,  and  not  a  foreigner  was  seen,  as  we 
rapidly  approached  the  festive  courtyard.  It 
was  absolutely  packed  with  humanity  when  we 
arrived,  so  that  we  were  invited  to  the  gallery, 
as  a  better  view-point; 

Flocks  of  exquisite  white  pigeons  were  flying 
in  and  out  everywhere,  swooping  down  from 
the  blue  above,  crossing  the  housetop,  almost 
alighting,  and  then  —  off  again  in  the  sun- 
shine. Looped  across  one  corner  of  the  gal- 
lery were  strings  of  dreadful  meat,  several 

108 


ANOTHER  MOHAMMEDAN  WEDDING 

pieces  of  which  had  been  thrown  on  the  floor 
for  a  cat,  whose  possession  of  the  dainties  was 
being  vigorously  disputed  by  a  creeping  baby 
not  more  than  six  or  seven  months  old. 

All  the  guests  were  of  course  very  gayly 
arrayed,  a  few  as  before  keeping  themselves 
tightly  shrouded,  as  if  they  had  secretly  stolen 
out  of  their  own  harems  and  feared  recogni- 
tion. One  or  two  handsome  Turkish  women 
were  present,  some  well-dressed  blacks,  and 
again  a  few  splendidly  picturesque  Bedouins  in 
magnificent  silver.  One  of  these  old  women 
seemed  to  possess  a  veritable  gift  of  humour; 
she  showed  her  strong  white  teeth  in  many 
hearty  laughs,  her  red  turban  was  set  rakishly 
on  one  side,  her  long  veil  caught  by  a  fine  fili- 
gree silver  disk,  and  her  fingers  were  deeply 
henna-dyed. 

As  usual,  black  women  sat  upon  the  court- 
yard floor,  beating  strange  drums  and  chanting 
in  peculiar  rhythm,  one  of  them  becoming  to 
all  appearance  absolutely  intoxicated  with  her 
own  performance,  her  four  straight,  spiked, 

109 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

jessamine  blossoms  vibrating  over  one  ear,  the 
whole  body  swaying  in  joyous  unison  to  the 
tempo  of  her  barbaric  song. 

Several  women  had  brought  babies,  some  of 
whom  appeared  fairly  healthy  and  strong,  but 
more  were  very  pale  and  indifferent.  Babies  in 
Tripoli  were  supposed  to  eat  anything  handy  — 
meat,  yellow  bread  from  the  street,  fruit,  or 
whatever  their  parents  enjoyed;  and  if  a 
woman  could  not  nurse  her  baby  its  chances 
'for  life  were  very  slight.  Infant  mortality 
was  appalling.  One  tiny  mite  was  evidently 
dying  on  the  spot;  not  a  particle  of  flesh  on 
its  wee  arms  and  legs,  on  which  the  skin  hung 
in  folds.  It  was  perfectly  white,  and  breathing 
with  difficulty,  yet  its  mother  was  dandling 
it,  trying  to  amuse  its  closing  eyes,  and  pre- 
tending to  herself  that  it  was  like  other  little 
babies. 

Near  us  on  the  gallery  was  a  carefully 
guarded  door  of  pale  green,  with  handsome 
drop  handles  of  brass,  watched  by  a  stout  and 
ancient  grandmother  of  the  bride  (rather  care- 
no 


ANOTHER  MOHAMMEDAN  WEDDING 

less  of  her  barracan),  who  held  it  shut  as  final 
stages  of  the  bridal  toilet  went  on. 

Half  a  dozen  intimate  friends  now  entered 
to  view  the  heroine,  then  a  few  more,  then  the 
black  women  with  tambourines  to  escort  her 
down,  and  four  little  girls  with  tiny  lighted 
candles.  On  the  way  a  small  boy  disputed 
candle-bearing  rights,  and  sent  one  little  girl 
off  in  bitter  tears,  while  he  triumphantly  joined 
the  procession  in  her  place. 

This  bride  was  enfolded  in  a  blue  striped  silk 
veil,  nearly  covering  very  long  braids  of  black 
hair  with  heavy  silver  ornaments  at  the  ends, 
her  dress  chiefly  wine-coloured  velvet  and  blue 
velvet,  gold  embroidered  and  silver  embroid- 
ered, and  silver  slippers.  She  was  led  down- 
ward most  tenderly,  as  if  she  might  have  been 
spun  glass.  A  bride  is  treated  with  much  honour 
in  her  husband's  house  for  a  month,  his  mother 
and  all  the  family  vying  with  each  other  to 
relieve  her  from  care  and  labour.  After  that 
she  takes  her  place  with  the  rest,  doing  even 
more  than  her  normal  share. 

in 


TRIPOLI    THE    MYSTERIOUS 

At  last  in  the  courtyard,  the  present  heroine 
was  put  up  on  a  green  chest  ornamented  with 
brass,  evidently  containing  her  treasures; 
hands  and  draperies  were  adjusted,  and  then 
she  was  turned  solemnly  around  like  a  lajr 
figure,  that  all  might  view  her  deeply  henna- 
dyed  fingers  with  their  gold-leaf  ornaments, 
her  fine  clothes  and  jewelry.  The  veil  finally 
put  back,  a  densely  powdered  and  pink-tri- 
angled  face  emerged,  blackened  eyebrows  meet- 
ing, gilt  and  coloured  paper  adornments  pasted 
on  chin  and  forehead,  chains  of  blossoms  and 
all  the  rest,  familiar  from  the  earlier  wedding. 
It  was  about  at  this  point  that  we  had  arrived 
on  the  scene  of  the  former  ceremony ;  for  now, 
having  turned  this  bride  around  quite  suffi- 
ciently to  have  produced  genuine  vertigo,  she 
was  gently  led  off  her  box  and  it  was  carried 
out.  She  was  placed  in  a  chair  against  the 
wall,  veil  pinned  up  to  fall  in  folds  behind, 
her  hands  were  spread  on  her  knees,  and  every 
one  pressed  up  to  examine  her  costume. 

There  she  would  sit  until  dark. 
112 


XVIII 
A  JEWISH-ARAB  WEDDING 

An  Arab  wedding  among  wealthy  Jews  is 
differently  conducte3. 

Invitations  had  reached  us  several  days  be- 
fore, and  were  accepted  with  vivid  interest. 
The  house  was  a  fine  one,  yet  as  usual,  even 
with  the  most  prosperous  families,  situated  in 
a  mean  and  narrow  street,  approached  through 
what  looked  like  a  subterranean  passage,  wind- 
ing anH  full  of  turns  and  corners,  in  the  Harah 
quarter  of  the  city. 

We  finally  reached  the  courtyard,  open  to 
the  sky,  and  guarded  by  servants  at  the  en- 
trance. Even  the  walls  of  the  passages  lead- 
ing in  were  covered  by  enormously  long  leaves 
of  the  date  palm,  also  the  pale-blue  walls  of  the 
courtyard  itself.  Woven  silk  hangings  were 
draped  in  a  variety  of  ways,  with  bright  silk 
veils  and  large  handkerchiefs. 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

Immediately  facing  the  entrance  was  a  raised 
platform,  upon  it  a  sofa  and  easy-chairs  faced 
each  other  on  either  side,  making  a  sort  of 
throne,  with  fine  white  barracans  of  camel's 
hair  and  silk.  In  the  center,  suspended  from 
cross-beams,  was  a  large,  openwork  ornament 
covered  with  artificial  roses,  gilt  balls  and  other 
tinsel.  On  the  undraped  sofa  were  an  em- 
broidered bag  and  a  Tripoli  fan  like  a  little 
flag,  only  not  made  this  time  of  straw,  but 
jessamine  blossoms  on  wire.  The  floor  and 
dai's  were  covered  with  very  good  rugs. 

Above,  the  gallery  was  filled  with  friends, 
and  the  roof  as  well — evidently  neighbours  had 
crept  along  above,  and  were  staring  down  on 
the  gay  scene  uninvited.  Jewish  ladies  were 
collecting  in  leisurely  style,  dressed  in  every 
imaginable  colour,  but  the  effect  softened  and 
poeticized  by  their  lovely  barracans  which 
when  draped  allowed  only  faces,  the  front  of 
their  hair  and  enormous  earrings  and  neck- 
laces to  be  seen.  A  very  few  Maltese  and 
Italians  came  in  European  dress,  but  not 

114 


A   JEWISH-ARAB   WEDDING 

enough  to  spoil  the  oriental  effect.  Handsome 
young  Jewish  men  in  fezzes,  long  broadcloth 
coats  and  white  shirts  flapping  outside  the 
large  trousers,  handed  chairs,  looked  after  the 
guests,  and  were  exceedingly  thoughtful  and 
attentive. 

More  and  more  guests  kept  arriving,  many 
with  children,  and  the  rooms  off  the  courtyard 
were  filled,  every  grating  and  window  aglow 
with  gazing  eyes. 

The  father  and  mother  of  the  bride,  with 
strong,  sweet  faces,  passed  about  among  their 
friends,  he  in  fez  and  round  blue  turban,  she  in 
braided  hair,  much  jewelry  and  many  colours. 
They  and  their  oldest  son  together  boasted 
eighteen  children.  The  son  was  very  hand- 
some. 

Finally  we  became  conscious  of  Turkish 
singing  by  people  hidden  from  sight,  two  or 
three  notes,  nasal  beyond  belief,  continued 
iteration,  no  beginning  or  ending,  no  melody, 
no  tonic,  no  seventh,  and  very  loud. 

Shortly  after,  two  dignified  rabbis  in  robes 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

and  turbans  came  down  the  open  stairway  from 
the  gallery,  one  very  round  and  fat,  the  other 
phenomenally  tall  and  slender,  followed  by  two 
little  girls  carrying  enormous  lighted  candles. 
The  mother  of  the  bride  and  mother  of  the 
groom  followed,  and  then  the  bridal  pair.  The 
little  bride  was  plump  and  pretty,  with  long, 
curling  black  lashes,  many  colours  in  jackets 
and  skirts  and  trousers,  and  over  all  a  white 
tulle  veil.  The  groom  was  a  sallow  and  un- 
handsome boy. 

They  mounted  the  little  platform,  she  at  his 
right  in  seating  themselves  on  the  sofa.  He 
at  once  drew  over  their  heads  a  silk  scarf,  quite 
wide,  of  white  with  lavender  ends.  It  was 
soon  dropped  off,  and  they  sat  still,  her  eyes 
demurely  cast  down;  her  mother  occupied 
the  arm-chair  next  the  groom,  his  next  the 
bride. 

One  of  the  rabbis  then  took  a  glass  of  wine, 
saying  a  long  invocation  of  some  kind  over  it, 
drinking  a  little  himself  and  sending  it  after- 
ward to  the  bridegroom,  who  put  it  to  his 

116 


A   JEWISH-ARAB   WEDDING 

bride's  lips  (and  spilled  a  lot  down  her  neck, 
poor  boy!).  The  same  goblet  was  passed 
around  among  the  guests,  each  taking  a  sip. 
Then  more  sonorous  words  repeated  by  the 
rabbi,  many  responses  in  unison  by  the  com- 
pany, the  flash  of  a  wedding  ring  which  pre- 
sumably reached  the  bride,  her  veil  was  lifted 
—  and  suddenly  glasses  of  something  flavoured 
with  rose  water  were  being  passed  about,  huge 
blocks  of  sponge  cake,  and  dessert-spoonfuls 
of  candies,  some  of  bright  blue. 

Very  soon  all  the  women  guests  began  to 
press  about  the  bride,  kissing  both  her  cheeks 
and  shaking  hands.  Finally  we  went  to  her 
and  paid  our  respects,  also  to  the  bridegroom's 
mother  and  that  of  the  bride,  this  time  our  real 
hostess. 

On  emerging  into  the  cavernous  white  street, 
it  was  still  bright  daylight,  with  deep-blue  sky 
blazing  in  a  narrow  ribbon  above  white  walls 
and  intermittent  masonry  arches  of  pale  yel- 
low, pink,  lavender  and  blue.  Camels  were 
claiming  right  of  way,  and  patient  donkeys, 

117 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

proud  Turks,  veiled  women,  lordly  Jews,  sober 
Arabs  passed  swiftly  like  theatrical  setting. 

Was  it  indeed  our  own  world  at  all  —  or 
not,  rather,  some  sudden  plunge  into  the  life 
of  a  new  planet? 


118 


XIX 

THE  ECLIPSE  OF  1900 

All  the  instruments  were  in  readiness  on  the 
Consulate  roof-terrace.  All  the  amateur 
helpers  in  various  lines  of  observation  —  those 
to  draw  the  corona,  to  mark  time,  to  watch  for 
and  record  Baily's  Beads,  shadow-bands  and 
various  minor  phenomena  —  had  been  care- 
fully drilled,  and  the  time  was  nearly  at  hand. 

As  the  day  approached,  skies  seemed  to  grow 
constantly  clearer.  In  the  dry  season  no 
storms  were,  of  course,  to  be  apprehended,  yet 
this  did  not  mean  entire  immunity  from  cloud, 
and  the  gibleh  might  start  up,  thickening  the 
air  dangerously  for  photographing  fine  fila- 
ments of  the  corona.  On  that  fateful  Monday 
morning,  however,  I  awoke  from  frightful 
dreams  of  fog  and  storm  to  find  a  crystal 
morning  with  atmosphere  of  unsurpassed  and 
limpid  purity. 

119 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
Every  suggestion  of  wandering  vapour  about 
the  horizon  disappeared  as  the  morning  ad- 
vanced, and  the  sky  became  absolutely  trans- 
parent. In  intervals  of  giving  final  instruc- 
tions to  workmen  and  voluntary  observers  of 
all  nations,  and  helping  here  and  there,  above 
and  below,  I  kept  a  wary  eye  on  the  sky,  but 
always  found  it  the  same  tencler  blue,  un- 
stained. Finally  the  afternoon  came,  every  one 
had  gathered,  rehearsals  of  the  past  six  days 
were  once  more  repeated,  and  the  entire  Eng- 
lish colony  with  a  few  French  and  Italians 
were  placed,  each  at  an  appointed  spot  to  per- 
form his  part  in  the  eclipse  programme. 

The  glare  of  white  roofs  was  almost  blind- 
ing, the  arrogant  sun  unconscious  of  his  ap- 
proaching humiliation  shining  with  intensified 
brilliance,  as  if  to  compel  human  retreat  from 
the  terrace. 

More  than  two  hours  before  the  eclipse 
reached  us,  came  a  telegram  from  Georgia, 
announcing  the  success  of  observations  there 
: — a  veritable  triumph  of  man's  messenger 

1 20 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1900 

over  the  speed  of  heavenly  bodies,  the  possi- 
bility of  which  had  been  already  demonstrated 
by  Professor  Todd  in  January,  1889,  during 
the  California  eclipse.  In  just  twenty-nine 
minutes  after  the  Georgia  observations  were 
made,  in  fourteen  from  Washington,  came  the 
prearranged  cipher  describing  the  eclipse  at 
the  American  end  of  its  track. 

On  my  husband's  application  and  by  the 
courtesy  of  Denison  Pender,  Esq.,  General 
Manager  of  the  extensive  lines  of  the  Eastern 
Telegraph  Company,  use  of  their  new  cables 
from  Gibraltar  to  Malta  and  from  Malta  to 
Tripoli  was  granted,  enabling  this  very  rapid 
communication,  and  the  complete  worsting  of 
the  moon  in  its  race  with  electricity. 

The  Italian  drawing-master  and  a  few  of 
his  best  pupils  were  gathered  at  one  corner, 
plumb-lines  before  them  to  indicate  the  direc- 
tion of  coronal  rays  in  their  sketches;  near 
by,  the  roof  had  been  marked  with  north  and 
south  lines  to  show  direction  and  speed  of 
shadow-bands,  with  observers  stationed  at 

121 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
hand;  a  camera  was  turned  upon  that  part 
of  the  white  wall  where  the  shadow  of  the 
great  tree  would  fall,  that  possibly  the  tiny 
crescents  revealed  by  its  foliage  during  the 
partial  eclipse  might  be  caught  upon  the  plate ; 
two  or  three  disks  were  set  up,  with  observers 
behind  them,  to  cut  off  the  bright  light  of  the 
inner  corona;  thus  the  long  extensions  might 
be  more  easily  seen  and  depicted.  Small  tele- 
scopes to  be  used  visually  upon  sections  of 
the  corona  were  placed  at  various  points,  per- 
sons to  watch  the  approach  of  the  moon's 
shadow  and  its  recession  —  all  were  expect- 
ant, waiting;  while  the  real  work  and  effort 
were  concentrated  at  the  ten  telescopes  and 
their  clockwork,  already  turned  upon  that 
spot  in  the  sky  where  the  sun  would  be  at 
totality. 

Every  roof  all  over  the  city  was  swarming 
with  humanity,  Maltese,  Jews,  Arabs,  Turkish 
soldiers  on  their  upper  ramparts,  Franciscan 
monks  on  their  high-air  promenade  —  even  the 
minarets  were  crowded,  while  in  the  streets 

122 


The  tiny  crescents  revealed  by  its  foliage  during  the  partial  eclipse 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1900 

below  a  curious  crowd  collected,  craning  the 
universal  neck  to  catch,  perchance,  a  glimpse 
of  the  telescopes  and  the  favoured  few  on  the 
Consulate  roof.  Whatever  "  show  "  was  com- 
ing must  be  there,  and  to  get  a  sight  of  us 
was  the  great  thing.  Only  one  man  in  the  city 
seemed  totally  oblivious  of  a  spectacle  impend- 
ing, and  he,  wrapped  up  in  his  cashabiya, 
continued  to  shake  barley  in  a  sieve  stupidly, 
far  below  in  a  shaded  courtyard. 

About  quarter  after  four  first  contact  was 
observed,  a  bit  ahead  of  time.  The  faithful 
moon  had  crept  on  and  on  toward  the  great 
moment  when  she  should  glide  in  between  us 
and  the  sun,  and  with  her  small  bulk  offer  the 
only  screen  to  his  brilliancy  which  has  ever 
been  effective  in  allowing  a  sight  of  the  corona 
to  mortal  eyes.  The  first  "  bite  "  into  his  daz- 
zling disk  had  been  taken,  and  silently  on- 
creeping,  the  sun's  extinguisher  covered  more 
and  more  of  the  shining  surface  until  only  a 
stout  crescent  remained.  Even  then  the  light 
seemed  hardly  less,  the  glare  of  white  roofs 

123 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

was  still  painful  to  unshaded  eyes,  but  there 
was  a  slightly  different  tone  in  the  sunshine. 

A  few  moments  later  it  was  no  longer  uncom- 
fortable to  gaze  abroad,  the  colour  of  every- 
thing visible  was  sad,  subdued;  the  sapphire 
sea  became  a  cold  slate,  the  sky  like  steel.  A 
few  cries  ascended  from  below  as  the  weird 
quality  in  the  light  grew  more  insistent  and 
the  muezzins'  prayer  call  arose,  but  in  general 
a  singular  silence  prevailed.  It  became  cool 
and  damp,  and  the  swallows  emerged  in  flocks, 
flying  about  excitedly  in  a  manner  quite  unlike 
their  nightly  sunset  parade.  Camels  dropped 
upon  their  knees,  and  other  animals  exhibited 
much  uneasiness. 

Suddenly  the  tiny  crescent,  scarcely  more 
than  a  thread,  shortened  from  both  cusps  simul- 
taneously, and  all  the  bright  line  broke  up 
into  a  series  of  globules  or  drops,  called  Baily's 
Beads,  first  mentioned  by  Halley  in  1715,  a 
dainty  and  beautiful  phenomenon. 

Totality  was  upon  us.  It  came,  not  with  a 
majestic  leap  as  at  Esashi  in  1896,  nor  in  a 

124 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1900 

series  of  jerks,  the  effect  at  Shirakawa  in  1887, 
but  in  a  silent  unfolding,  inexpressibly  majestic 
and  lovely.  One  second  the  luminous  drops, 
as  the  shining  crescent  broke  up  —  the  next, 
there  hung  the  great  black  ball  of  the  moon 
in  the  clear,  gray-purple  sky,  while  around  it 
blossomed  the  exquisite  corona,  like  some  fair 
flower  of  celestial  light.  Two  long  streamers 
below,  the  upper  edge  of  one  brilliantly  shin- 
ing, the  rest  soft  and  silvery,  with  three  equally 
extended  rays  above,  of  interwoven  structure 
and  brightly  white  points,  the  polar  rays  short 
and  inconspicuous  —  this  corona  glowed  in 
elusive  fairy-like  beauty  above  the  dreaming 
desert,  while  planets  emerged  in  the  cool  sky, 
and  a  hush  as  of  eternal  waiting  pervaded  the 
still  air. 

Low  on  the  horizon  a  warm  yellow  breathed 
along  the  shore,  but  there  was  none  of  the 
majesty  of  colour,  the  unearthly  effect  of  a  new 
creation,  which  made  the  Esashi  eclipse  so 
heart-breakingly  superb,  so  thrilling,  so  breath- 
less. Instead,  this  was  normal,  tender,  lovely, 

'125 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
full  of  masterful  beauty  and  power,  yet  with 
a  peace  breathing  the  very  spirit  of  interplane- 
tary space,  where  time  is  not,  where  nothing 
is  old,  yet  never  young,  in  presence  of  which 
mere  human  emotion  fades  and  faints  and  ut- 
terly dies  away.  The  great  psychic  currents 
of  the  universe,  in  their  moral  and  spiritual 
onrush  and  splendid  vitality,  never  flow  with 
such  an  overwhelming,  tangible  rush  as  in 
these  moments  of  cosmic  silence,  of  repressed, 
superb  possibility. 

I  looked  for  twenty  seconds  —  and  never  did 
they  flee  with  such  amazing  speed  —  and  for 
thirty  more  I  sketched  the  streamers  with 
prosaic  pencil  and  paper.  It  was  like  attempt- 
ing to  catch  the  solar  system  in  a  bird-cage. 

A  needle-shaft  of  true,  returning  sunlight 
flashed  over  the  world,  and  again  that  strange, 
invariable  sigh  from  the  hushed  multitude,  as 
of  tension  relaxed,  rose  from  the  streets  like 
a  veritable  tribute  to  immensity.  Totality  was 
over. 

But  gravity  all  the  time  had  been  doing  its 
126 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1900 

work,  and  more  than  a  hundred  exposures 
made  during  those  fifty  seconds,  the  whole 
mechanism  so  perfectly  planned  that  as  the 
fiftieth  second  closed,  the  sand  weights  just 
touched  the  courtyard  pavement  below ;  and  on 
each  plate  a  clear  picture  of  the  corona  with- 
out the  touch  of  a  human  hand,  except  to  re- 
lease the  pin  at  the  beginning  for  the  mechan- 
ism to  operate.  The  other  telescopes  had  also 
made  their  record;  and  a  fruitful  harvest  of 
amateur  sketches  was  garnered. 

All  the  natives  insisted  that  totality  was  pre- 
ceded by  "a  thick  smoke,"  undoubtedly  the 
moon's  onrushing  shadow  over  the  white  city. 
But  it  is  contrary  to  their  religion  to  investigate 
the  workings  of  nature,  so  that  when  questioned 
about  the  eclipse  they  would  not  make  any  de- 
tailed comments  upon  what  they  saw.  They 
have  a  curious  fear  of  extolling  the  creature 
above  the  Creator,  and  in  general  all  they 
would  say  was  "  Allah  is  Almighty,"  "  His 
works  are  wonderful,"  anct  other  indis- 
putable propositions  of  a  similar  nature.  A 

127 


TRIPOLI   THE    MYSTERIOUS 

very  few,  only,  ventured  to  talk  of  what  they 
saw,  and  that  without  betraying  any  sentiment 
of  admiration  or  wonder. 

Beautiful,  brief  totality!  Its  tantalizing 
hint  of  solar  secrets  made  more  definite  the 
plan  of  attack  for  another  eclipse. 


128 


XX 

THE  PIANURA  MARKET 

THe  Tuesday  market,  Suk  el-Thalath,  is  held 
in  a  huge  open  space  beyond  the  city,  along 
the  wide  beach.  Almost  an  epitome  of  the  city's 
varied  life,  products  of  native  industry  appear 
in  primitive  guise.  On  the  outskirts  are 
crowded  animals  for  sale,  regiments  of  camels, 
here  and  there  a  white  one  or  a  baby  camel, 
goats  in  great  flocks,  kids,  little  cows,  sheep, 
donkeys,  ponies;  and  bales  of  esparto  grass, 
through  which  comes  a  large  part  of  the  actual 
income  of  the  city.  It  grows  wild  on  the  hilly 
boundary  between  barren  dunes  and  arable 
oases,  generally  indicating  absence  of  other 
vegetation.  Loads  of  two  hundred  weight  each 
are  brought  in  large  nets,  the  camels  quite 
concealed  by  their  verdant  burden. 

The  tiny  tents  arose  in  a  night,  a  weekly  no- 
129 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

madic  city  in  street  after  street,  one  devoted 
to  vendors  of  meat,  product  of  unfamiliar  ani- 
mals in  unknown  shapes;  curious  vegetables 
occupied  the  attention  of  one  tent-lane,  with 
apricots  and  mulberries ;  another  street  showed 
coral,  roughly  shaped  to  native  uses;  near  by, 
sponges,  gathered  close  at  hand  by  Greek 
fishermen;  one  was  exclusively  occupied  by 
the  boys  and  women  who  make  straw  covers, 
oddly  woven  with  bits  of  gayly  coloured  cloth, 
as  protection  to  the  precious  cus-cus  from  dust 
or  insects;  still  another  miniature  highway 
showed  only  coarse  cotton  bonnets  for  babies, 
ornamented  with  bright  wool  in  varying  de- 
signs. One  old  woman  selling  a  sort  of  ban- 
dana handkerchief  had  large  cylinders  of  red 
coral  stuck  through  each  nostril. 

Smooth-haired  goats  were  led  about  by  a 
horn  or  an  ear,  tiny  cows  were  urged  hither 
and  yon,  and  people,  goods,  animals  were  so 
closely  packed  that  movement  was  almost 
impossible. 

Upon  the  wide  white  beach  no  less  than  ten 
130 


An  anxious  mother 


Straw  covers  .  .  .  protection  to  the  precious 


THE   PIANURA   MARKET 

thousand  natives  would  assemble  for  this 
Tuesday  sale  and  barter.  Bedouins,  proud  and 
silent,  frequently  prosperous,  yet  spending  less 
for  daily  living  than  the  poorest  European 
labourer,  stalked  about,  inspecting  bargains. 
No  wares  were  there  to  attract  moneyed 
strangers,  only  things  the  native  wants  and 
will  buy;  no  attempts  at  English  to  flatter  the 
passing  purchaser,  but  only  the  motley  resi- 
dents were  considered  —  even  the  lordly  Arab 
in  white  deigning  to  supply  himself  here,  and 
proceeding  homeward  to  some  far  oasis  of  the 
desert,  sometimes  on  a  blooded  horse  covered 
with  gay  leather  and  brass  and  silver  trap- 
pings, his  draperies  eddying  in  the  wind,  and 
ten  feet  of  gun  protruding;  frequently  sitting 
far  back  on  his  patient  donkey  laden  as  well 
with  family  necessities  for  a  week  to  come. 

With  all  its  polyglot  life  of  caravan  and  sil- 
versmith, wine  merchant  and  ivory  seller,  camel 
market  and  carpet  bazar,  these  hot  Tuesday 
mornings  on  the  sands  seem  sometimes  in 
retrospect  the  very  spirit  of  the  white  city's 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
singular  charm.  The  iridescent  Mediterra- 
nean, breaking  in  gentlest  ripples  against  a 
shining  beach,  white  walls  and  domes  and 
castle  in  the  distance,  and  close  at  hand  camels 
and  horses,  baskets  and  rugs,  coral  and  silver, 
and  the  surging  life  of  thousands  —  shrouded 
Arabs,  uncovered  blacks  and  befezzed  Turks 
—  all  this  was  Tripoli  in  essence,  under  the 
burning  blue  of  an  African  sky. 

An  intensely  picturesque  black  man  sur- 
rounded by  a  wild  group  of  Fezzani  was  hold- 
ing them  enthralled  by  his  tales,  until  their 
grasping  hands  relaxed,  their  purchases  fell  to 
the  sand,  and  they  literally  hung  upon  his 
words  in  breathless  tension.  A  few  rods  far- 
ther on,  an  ancient  negress  with  ears  and  nose 
stuck  full  of  bars  of  red  coral,  and  fuzzy  wool 
to  match,  seated  flat  on  the  beach,  was  holding 
forth  similarly  to  an  enchained  audience.  Her 
voice  carried  me  miles  out  into  the  desert.  I 
heard  the  winds  of  great  Sahara  play  about 
my  head  and  the  elemental  spirit  of  space  utter 
its  unapprehended  wisdom. 

132 


Camel  laden  with  esparto  grass 


fe 


By  noon  the  crowd  disperses 


THE   PIANURA   MARKET 

The  prevalence  of  fiery  red  wool  among 
negresses  was  somewhat  surprising,  and  its 
explanation  rather  more  so.  Nothing,  it  seems 
is  so  much  dreaded  by  these  simple  women  as 
the  appearance  of  white  streaks  among  the 
black,  and  at  the  first  shadowy  suggestion  of 
approaching  grayness  immediate  resort  is  had 
to  the  dyepot,  a  brilliant  vermilion,  seemingly, 
the  only  available  tint.  Hence  the  frequent 
but  strangely  amusing  combination,  the  start- 
ling effect,  of  ebony  faces  surmounted  b^ 
orange-scarlet  wool. 

By  noon  the  crowd  disperses,  and  the  open 
beach  is  left  once  more  to  its  normal  white 
smoothness;  tents  are  gone,  animals  have 
trotted  away,  nationalities  are  scattered,  and 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  events  in  the  life 
of  Tripoli  is  over  for  a  week. 


XXI 

BREAD  MARKET  AND  CARAVANS 

For  many  years  Tripoli  had  almost  a  mo- 
nopoly of  the  caravan  trade.  The  city  is  the 
Mediterranean  Mecca  for  long  lines  of  camels 
streaming  in  from  depths  of  desert  spaces, 
bringing  ivory  and  gold  dust,  ostrich  feathers 
and  gums,  wax  and  tanned  leather,  sometimes 
mats  and  henna,  and  using  three  or  four 
months  or  longer  for  their  deliberate  progress. 
Returning  probably  before  the  year  is  out,  here 
begin  the  principal  routes  of  commerce  from 
Barbary  to  the  far  interior  oases,  carrying  in 
exchange  Manchester  prints,  tea  and  sugar. 
Fanatical  Tuaregs,  their  faces  shrouded  in 
veils  as  well  as  barracan,  closed  palanquins  on 
the  best  camels  for  the  concealment  of  accom- 
panying (supposable)  beauty,  and  barbarous 
musicians  of  the  desert,  made  a  strange  pro- 


BREAD   MARKET   AND    CARAVANS 

cession,  often  taking  hours  for  entire  arrival 
after  the  leading  dromedaries  had  appeared. 

The  Tuaregs  have  never  been  conquered. 
Fully  twenty  thousand  in  number,  no  treachery 
or  cruelty  seems  too  great  for  them  to  inflict 
upon  foreigners  of  the  hated  Christian  belief 
unhappy  enough  to  get  into  their  power.  Yet, 
besides  their  abnormally  long  guns,  many  mem- 
bers of  the  caravans  I  watched,  even  Tuaregs 
themselves,  carried  Crusader  swords,  with  the 
cross  for  a  handle,  and  many  swarthy  girls 
of  certain  tribes  had  small  blue-black  crosses 
tattooed  between  the  eyebrows,  a  racial  mark 
far  removed  from  its  original  significance  and 
all  unthought  of  by  these  loyal  adherents  of 
the  prophet. 

Caravans  for  the  Sudan  take  either  the 
Fezzan  or  the  Ghadames  route,  practically  the 
same  as  far  as  the  oasis  of  Misda,  south  of 
the  Gharian  mountains,  where  the  caravans 
sometimes  halt  in  their  long  march.  Fezzan 
is  an  archipelago  of  oases,  those  islands  of  the 
desert.  Warmer  than  Tripoli  in  climate,  it 

135 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

is  supposed  to  have  about  one  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  Like  other  North  African 
regions,  the  camel  is  the  chief  domestic  ani- 
mal, but  a  few  foxes,  gazelles  and  antelopes 
are  kept. 

Fanaticism,  greed  and  intolerance  have  kept 
Europeans  out  of  the  oasis  of  Ghat;  Moslems 
only  are  allowed  there.  It  is  the  gateway  to 
the  western  Sahara  of  Tripoli. 

In  Zellah  and  Tirsa  ostriches  are  raised. 
Beyond  this  point  those  bound  for  the  western 
Sudan  follow  the  southwest  route  to  Gha- 
dames;  and  to  Bornu  Kuka  or  the  places  on 
Lake  Tchad  by  the  southeast  route,  far  more 
difficult.  The  way  for  those  starting  from 
Benghazi  is  considered  very  dangerous  for 
Europeans.  But  Tripoli  seems  the  natural 
connecting  link  between  Europe  and  Africa. 
In  past  years  European  merchandise  was 
stored  here  until  time  for  a  caravan  to  set 
out  for  the  Sudan,  and  African  goods  also 
waited  here  for  transportation  across  the 
Mediterranean. 

136 


BREAD   MARKET   AND   CARAVANS 

Commerce  with  the  interior  was  constant, 
and  ostrich  feathers,  elephant  tusks,  skins,  even 
gold,  came  up  in  quantities  by  caravan  from 
Bornu  and  Uadai,  in  exchange  for  Manchester 
cloths,  Venetian  glass-ware,  and  goods  from 
southern  France.  Prosperous  merchants,  send- 
ing off  wares  into  desert  depths,  heard  nothing 
for  months,  sometimes  for  years,  of  their  fate. 
Frequently  all  hope  was  abandoned,  but  when 
a  returning  caravan  was  actually  sighted, 
camels  slow  and  weary,  men  hungry,  thirsty, 
sunburned,  all  Tripoli  went  out  to  the  city 
gates,  and  the  train  was  met  with  such  rejoic- 
ing welcome  as  is  rarely  accorded  home-com- 
ing wanderers  in  more  civilized  regions.  Five 
hundred  or  even  a  thousand  camels  used  to 
be  dispatched.  Now,  although  Tripoli  is  still 
the  point  of  departure  for  such  expeditions, 
they  are  smaller  and  far  more  infrequent. 

One  of  the  picturesque  quarters  of  the  city 
is  the  square  which  on  certain  days  is  used  as 
the  bread  market,  where  hundreds  of  Arabs 
crouch  all  day  under  their  barracans  in  the 

137 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
hot  sunshine,  keeping  guard  over  loaves  of 
bright  yellow  and  other  tints,  unhygienic  but 
artistic.  The  scene  was  always  quaint  and  al- 
luring. Near  by  in  a  shaded  corner  the  white 
caps  worn  under  the  fez  were  sold,  and  men 
and  animals  filled  the  open  spaces  with  a  tumul- 
tuous yet  strangely  silent  life. 

To  me  this  bread  market  will  always  be  as- 
sociated with  one  memorable  morning.  For 
the  first  time  in  many  months  a  caravan  had 
been  sighted,  and  was  even  then  beginning  to 
arrive,  after  ten  months'  weary  crossing  of 
the  well-nigh  limitless  desert.  The  camels 
stepped  slowly,  heavily  laden  with  huge  bales 
securely  tied  up  —  ivory  and  gold  dust,  skins 
and  feathers.  On  the  saddles  were  gay  rugs 
and  blankets,  a  few  good  saddle-bags,  but  gen- 
erally uninteresting  in  pattern  and  quality. 
Wrapped  in  dingy  drapery  and  carrying  guns 
ten  feet  long,  swarthy  Bedouins  led  the  weary 
camels  across  the  sun-baked  square.  In  the 
singular  and  silent  company  marched  a  few 
genuine  Tuaregs,  black  veils  strapped  tightly 

138 


BREAD  MARKET  AND  CARAVANS 
over  their  faces,  and  enshrouded  in  black  or 
dark  brown  wraps,  unlike  the  barracan.  In 
their  opinion  even  the  veils  were  hardly  pro- 
tection against  the  impious  glances  of  hated 
Christians,  and  with  attitudes  expressive  of 
the  utmost  repulsion  and  ferocity  they  turned 
aside,  lest  a  glance  might  be  met  in  passing. 
All  were  ragged  beyond  belief  and  incredibly 
dirty. 

Over  two  hundred  and  fifty  camels  composed 
the  train,  one  or  two  carrying  tightly  closed 
palanquins  in  which  favorite  wives  rode  in  safe 
retirement.  Arabs,  Bedouins,  Tuaregs  even, 
looked  worn  and  tired;  and  far  out  into  the 
desert  stretched  the  incoming  horde. 

Once  only  during  our  months  in  Tripoli  an 
important  caravan  set  forth  from  the  city  for 
the  far  south.  Word  came  one  day  during 
luncheon  that  about  three  hundred  men  and 
camels  were  just  ready  for  departure.  Hasten- 
ing to  the  famous  "  three  palms  "  from  which 
the  start  was  made,  we  found  a  scene  of  great 
activity.  Numerous  camels,  already  loaded, 

139 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
were  hobbled  and  waiting  for  the  start.  Bales 
still  covered  the  ground,  and  many  animals 
were  kneeling  to  receive  their  burdens.  The 
leader,  a  racing  camel,  with  high  Tuareg 
saddle,  watched  us  intelligently  with  an  ex- 
pression of  alert  though  impersonal  interest. 
I  took  a  few  pictures,  manifestly  an  operation 
not  very  pleasing  to  the  busy  Arabs,  and  for 
several  hours  we  remained  in  the  vicinity,  fas- 
cinated by  the  strange  scene. 

Toward  five,  though  all  was  not  yet  in  readi- 
ness, forty  or  fifty  camels  and  their  masters 
set  out  slowly  from  the  city  for  the  first  short 
stage  of  their  immense  journey.  Camp  would 
be  made  that  night  near  by,  where  all  late 
comers  would  join  the  main  body;  and  next 
day,  a  unit,  the  train  would  leave  comforts 
behind  for  weary  months. 


140 


Bales  still  covered  the  ground 


The  leader,  a  racing  camel  with  high  Tuareg  saddle 


XXII 
Music  AND  MUSICIANS 

A  strange,  hypnotic  quality  characterized 
the  native  music  of  Tripoli.  Various  crude 
instruments  were  used,  goatskins  in  the  hands 
of  Sudanese,  strange  flageolets,  cymbals, 
stringed  instruments ;  the  street  singing,  story 
telling  and  weird  chants  performed  by  black 
women  at  Arab  weddings,  all  had  some  pecu- 
liar effect  very  hard  to  analyze.  The  death 
dirge  rising  from  a  near-by  courtyard  through- 
out a  whole  night  carried  a  wail  of  despair 
from  which  no  escape  seemed  possible.  The 
Turkish  military  band  discoursed  most  amaz- 
ing music,  always  ending  with  a  blessing  on 
the  Sultan  in  unison.  But  this  was  merely 
interesting,  not  terrifying. 

Sometimes  at  dawn,  when  roofs  and  mina- 
rets were  dazzlingly  white  against  the  sap- 

141 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

phire  sky,  already  shining  in  affluent  sunlight 
while  yet  the  labyrinthine  streets  at  the  bot- 
tom of  stucco  canons  lay  in  twilight  gray, 
strange  men  from  the  desert  would  stalk  by, 
making  uncanny  music.  One  of  them,  very 
tall  and  blacker  than  most,  was  dressed  in  a 
low-necked,  short-sleeved  garment,  greatly  ab- 
breviated as  to  skirts;  playing  melodies  in  a 
minor  mode  unknown  to  the  West,  his  stride 
was  full  of  a  dignity  well-nigh  appalling. 
Once  or  twice  I  tried  to  write  these  melodies 
in  our  own  familiar  notation,  but  it  would  have 
been  as  easy  to  transcribe  the  wind  or  surf-beat 
on  the  sand.  The  instrument  slightly  re- 
sembled a  Scotch  bagpipe,  decorated  with  bar- 
baric strings  of  shells  and  beads  —  an  inflated 
skin  with  primitive  mouthpiece,  and  at  the  op- 
posite end  two  pointed  projections  like  horns. 
These  he  held  in  either  hand,  and  might  almost 
have  passed  for  the  Japanese  god  of  winds, 
blowing  alternately,  as  the  freak  took  him, 
typhoons  and  hurricanes,  or  zephyrs  only 
strong  enough  to  waft  cherry-blossom  petals 

142 


MUSIC   AND    MUSICIANS 

from  the  bough ;  except  that  no  element  of  the 
humourous  crossed  the  stern,  implacable  face 
of  this  son  of  the  desert,  high  with  lofty 
thought  of  gods  and  fates.  His  companion 
beat  upon  a  curious  little  tom-tom,  now  and 
then  singing  a  blood-curdling  chant.  This  was 
hardly  easier  to  transcribe  into  familiar  nota- 
tion than  the  mournful  bag-pipe,  yet  the  rhythm 
was  marked  and  unchanging,  and  as  nearly  as 
notes  can  express  it,  the  following :  — 


etc. 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
Distinctly  major,  yet  it  joined  harmoniously 
with  the  moan  of  the   instrument,   quite  as 
definitely  not  major. 

Black  boys  following,  jumped,  shouted, 
danced  like  wild  creatures,  excited  beyond  all 
bounds  by  this  oddly  compelling  music,  as  the 
rhythm  penetrated  and  seized  their  imagination. 
Generally  passing  about  sunrise,  these  men  of 
mystery  sometimes  went  by  in  the  night,  the 
weird  performance  once  or  twice  taking  place 
about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  min- 
strels always  walke3  with  peculiar  swiftness, 
intent  upon  the  serious  business  in  hand.  Lis- 
tening for  long  to  the  mystic  strains,  a  singular 
influence  was  discernible.  One  had  actually  to 
exercise  distinct  self-control  not  to  follow  after 
these  enticing  sounds,  whithersoever  they 
might  beckon. 

Hardly  less  insistent  was  an  old  woman  who 
played  upon  a  gimbei,  like  an  undeveloped 
banjo,  and  sang  in  a  high  and  cracked  but  tire- 
less voice  words  apparently  fraught  with  dis- 
astrous meaning,  bringing  to  mind  grewsome 

144 


Taking  her  station  against  some  white  wall 


MUSIC  AND  MUSICIANS 
stories  of  desert  depths.  Taking  her  station 
against  some  white  wall,  prickly  pears  high 
above  her  head  against  the  blue,  she  chanted 
for  hours,  surrounded  by  a  fascinated  audi- 
ence gradually  augmenting  as  her  climaxes 
approached.  One  of  the  favourite  African  pro- 
fessions, apparently,  this  intoning  stories  to  a 
circle  of  listeners. 

There  is  more  in  it  than  mere  sound.  I  have 
been  myself  transported  bodily  into  the  depths 
of  Sahara  by  these  monotonously  chanted  tales, 
I  have  felt  the  free  winds  blow  in  my  face  as 
the  racing  dromedary  bore  me  on  tq  strange 
scenes  over  moonlit  sands. 


145 


XXIII 
TURKISH  EXILES  AND  OTHERS 

Redjed  Pasha,  Governor  of  Tripoli,  a  gen- 
tleman of  much  intelligence,  was  deeply  inter- 
ested in  the  coming  eclipse,  and  even  offered 
his  castle,  once  the  ancient  citadel,  as  site  for 
telescopes  and  cameras,  and  headquarters  for 
the  expedition.  Frequently  he  called  upon  us 
at  the  Consulate,  inspecting  progress  in  mount- 
ing apparatus,  and  expressing  his  certainty 
that  Allah  would  grant  clear  skies  on  the  im- 
portant day.  The  Pasha's  nearest  officers  were 
socially  delightful  men  of  the  world,  thor- 
oughly cultivated,  speaking  several  languages, 
who  made  our  stay  memorable  in  various 
thoughtful  ways. 

On  our  earlier  visit  his  official  call  was  made 
with  his  retinue  and  much  gold  and  glory  on 
May  24,  the  Queen's  birthday. 

146 


TURKISH    EXILES   AND   OTHERS 

In  1905  his  first  call  was  also  made  in  state. 
All  the  gorgeous  cavasses  were  double  lined 
to  receive  him,  the  British  flag  was  hoisted 
and  the  Consul-General  and  the  Astronomer 
met  him  on  the  gallery.  Three  resplendent 
officers  accompanied  him,  in  red  fezzes  and 
perfect  European  dress.  After  refreshments 
and  necessary  compliments,  the  Pasha  con- 
fessed that  he  was  deeply  curious  about  the 
telescopes  and  the  way  the  Astronomer  was 
planning  to  observe  the  eclipse.  Then  with  his 
retinue  he  proceeded  to  the  roof-terrace  where 
our  own  little  American  flag  was  flying,  and 
examined  thoroughly  all  the  apparatus.  He 
said  it  would  please  him  if  we  would  photo- 
graph him  and  his  officers  with  the  Astronomer, 
which  was  gladly  done. 

The  good  Pasha  quite  took  us  under  his 
protection.  People  stood  up  against  walls  to 
see  us  go  by,  day  after  clay,  in  charge  of 
one  imperial  officer  after  another  and  in 
different  carriages;  once  or  twice  with 
three  white  horses  abreast,  which  could 


TRIPOLI    THE    MYSTERIOUS 

barely  make  their  way  through  the  crowded 
thoroughfares. 

As  Tripoli  was  a  sort  of  colony  for  political 
suspects,  a  good  many  exiles  lived  in  the  white 
city  who  brought  the  very  atmosphere  of  Con- 
stantinople with  them,  the  elegance,  the  grace 
of  living  which  no  transportation  could  dis- 
guise. One  of  these  was  F Bey,  a  hand- 
some young  man  near  to  the  Pasha  in  the 
castle,  of  great  wealth  and  high  family,  who 
was  still  trying  to  find  out  why  he  was  exiled. 
Unconscious  of  having  thought  or  said,  much 
less  done,  anything  disloyal  to  the  Sultan,  he 
unexpectedly  and  very  suddenly  found  himself 
in  Tripoli,  forbidden  to  return  "  for  the  pres- 
ent." He  had  sent  for  his  mother  and  sister, 
elegant  women  of  rank,  in  whose  society,  at 
their  secluded  but  richly  appointed  home,  we 
found  the  greatest  pleasure.  This,  however, 
was  before  the  "  Young  Turk  "  movement  and 
during  the  reign  of  Abdul  Hamid  II.  The 
recall  of  our  friend  to  his  former  haunts  fol- 
lowed the  coming  of  more  liberal  ideas. 

148 


One  of  these     .  .  .  was  still  trying  to  find 
out  why  he  was  exiled 


TURKISH    EXILES   AND    OTHERS 

Many  other  interesting  exiles  were  banished 
from  Constantinople  for  they  knew  not  what 
imaginary  offense  or  suspected  crime,  but 
their  loyalty  to  the  Sultan  seemed  unshaken, 
their  almost  daily  hope  of  return  pathetically 
unquenched. 

Old  Etim  Bey  especially,  speaking  only 
Turkish,  debarred  from  returning  because  he 
"  knew  too  much/'  became  a  warm  friend,  in- 
viting us  constantly  to  his  chaotic  house,  full 
of  curios,  photographs,  musical  instruments, 
guns,  pistols,  cameras,  inventions  from  the 
world  over  —  even  an  automobile  which  would 
not  go,  and  could  not  have  been  navigated  in 
Tripoli's  uncertain  streets  had  it  ever  so  good 
a  will  to  go. 

Learned  Jewish  rabbis  speaking  and  writing 
only  Hebrew  called  frequently,  telling  many  a 
tale  of  intense  interest  ana  significance  of  the 
region  and  its  history. 

In  the  roadstead  lay  always  several  men  of 
war,  Italian,  French,  English,  among  them  an 
old  Turkish  craft  supposed  hardly  seaworthy 

1149 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

enough  to  get  out  of  harbour  if  escape  were 
necessary,  but  upon  whose  ample  decks  delight- 
ful hospitality  was  dispensed  by  her  officers. 

The  first  foreign  lady  to  be  invited  on  board, 
I  felt  the  honour  of  that  position  when  the  chief 
officer  and  the  Captain  of  the  Port  came  for 
us  in  the  launch.  Rowed  by  stout  Turkish 
arms,  we  rapidly  approached  the  old  wooden 
cruiser,  the  star  and  crescent  ensign  floating 
proudly  at  our  stern.  The  Commander  met 
us  at  the  gangway,  the  crew  all  standing  at 
attention  as  we  came  on  board;  and  coffee, 
sweetmeats  and  cigarettes  were  served  at  once 
on  the  clean  and  breezy  afterdeck.  More  sub- 
stantial refreshments  were  offered  later  in  the 
Commander's  airy  cabin.  The  ship's  guns, 
probably  fiercer  in  appearance  than  in  action, 
added  much  to  the  decorative  effect. 

A  Greek  warship,  the  Crete,  modern  in 
every  appointment,  looking  particularly  after 
the  sponge-divers  and  their  interests,  brought 
a  number  of  extremely  intelligent  and  agree- 
able young  officers,  who  entertained  on  board 

'150 


r 


...  his  chaotic  house  full  of  curios 


TURKISH    EXILES   AND    OTHERS 

with  much  elegance,  and  gave  valuable  assist- 
ance in  our  eclipse  observations. 

Nothing  mediaeval  or  rusty  characterized  the 
Crete;  she  was  a  fine,  clean,  up-to-date  naval 
vessel.  Delicious  luncheons  were  served; 
among  other  sweetmeats  was  a  Greek  fig 
paste,  quite  different  from  the  Turkish  rah 
hat  lu  cum,  yet  somewhat  similar  in  flavour. 

The  Consul-General  of  Great  Britain  -  and 
the  Vice-Consul,  the  head  of  the  cable  service, 
one  or  two  gentlemen  in  business  and  in  charge 
of  the  export  to  England  of  feathers,  ivory 
or  esparto  grass,  an  English  medical  mis- 
sionary who  was  a  trained  engineer,  the 
French  and  Italian  Consuls  —  these  friends 
with  their  families  brought  every  curious  and 
valuable  aspect  of  the  region  to  our  attention, 
showed  us  how  to  utilize  times  and  seasons 
to  the  best  advantage,  and  out  of  the  expe- 
rience of  long  residence  gave  untold  assistance 
in  our  study  of  all  these  strange  surroundings. 

Many  dinner-parties  I  remember  on  galleries 
overlooking  beautiful  courtyards  where  shaded 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
lights  gleamed  through  palm  and  vine,  the  de- 
licious drip  of  falling  fountains  filled  the  warm 
air,  and  soft-footed,  white-robed  Arab  servants 
appeared  and  disappeared  with  the  certainty 
and  timeliness  of  a  happy  fate. 

The  city  did  remain  quiescent  in  the  sense 
of  world  progress,  but  its  charm,  untranslat- 
able yet  potent,  was  never  to  be  resisted. 


152 


XXIV 
MOSQUES 

From  any  roof  terrace  in  Tripoli  a  dozen 
minarets  and  countless  domes  could  be  seen. 
The  beautiful  white  city  of  Barbary  was 
Mohammedan  to  the  core,  fanatical,  sober, 
dignified.  Five  times  a  day,  as  faithfully  as 
in  Constantinople  itself,  shrouded  muezzins 
emerged  upon  their  lofty  towers,  calling  the 
faithful  to  prayer  in  varying  melodies  of  two 
or  three  notes  invariably  founded  upon  the 
harmonic  minor  scale,  the  seventh  frequently 
omitted  —  a  peculiarity  of  many  less  civilized 
races.  Occasionally,  as  if  by  accident,  a  major 
third  sounded  with  unexpected  effect.  The 
quality  of  tone  is  singularly  penetrating,  but 
generally  unmusical.  Melodies  were  varied, 
one  being  almost  a  chant  in  impressive  solem- 


TRIPOLI    THE   MYSTERIOUS 
nity,  while  another  was  always  several  times  re- 


1 


peated.    Unfailingly  a  third  muezzin  reiterated 


ex  ^ 


Until  our  advent  the  mosques,  unlike  those 
of  Algiers,  had  never  been  profaned  by  infidel 
footsteps.  They  were  closed  tightly  against 
Christians.  Through  an  ornate  green  doorway 
opposite  the  Roman  arch,  where  constantly  sat 
a  melancholy  leper  awaiting  possible  alms,  I 
had  often  caught  glimpses,  past  entering  wor- 
shipers, of  a  dark  but  lovely  interior,  with  the 
faint,  characteristic  tinkle  of  running  water. 
Not,  however,  until  we  had  spent  several  weeks 
in  the  city  was  sufficient  influence  brought  to 
bear  to  admit  us  to  the  sacred  precincts,  and 
then  we  were  conducted  by  the  head  dragoman 
of  the  British  Consulate,  cavasse  and  inter- 
preter, an  imposing  yet  kindly  Arab,  and  one 
of  the  mosque's  most  dignified  officers.  A  truly 
royal  man  in  appearance,  he  was  often  most 


Where  constantly  sat  a  melancholy  leper  awaiting  possible  alms 


MOSQUES 

gorgeously  arrayed.  On  the  queen's  birthday 
in  1900,  when  Turkish  officials  paid  their  calls 
of  state  upon  Her  Majesty's  representative, 
Mufta  was  resplendent  in  yellow  brocade  and 
gold  with  white  silk  barracan.  Later  in  the 
day  he  wore  a  scarlet,  gold-embroidered  uni- 
form. But  on  the  occasion  when  we  accom- 
panied him  to  his  great,  seventeen-domed 
mosque,  he  was  covered  only  by  the  plain 
barracan  of  devotion. 

Within  the  forbidden  sanctuary,  I  first  no- 
ticed two  enormous  Turkey  carpets,  a  hundred 
years  old,  covering  the  floor,  except  a  narrow 
space  between,  where  a  number  of  worshipers 
had  set  their  slippers.  Each  of  the  domes  arch- 
ing above  the  great  room  showed  delicate 
stucco  forms,  almost  as  fine  as  the  lace-like 
decoration  of  the  Alhambra,  vividly  yet  artis- 
tically coloured,  with  different  quotations  from 
the  Koran  at  their  base  as  a  frieze.  Filigree 
silver  lamps  hung  from  above,  and  a  marble 
pulpit,  reached  by  a  long  flight  of  steps,  its 
rail  also  of  marble,  rose  upon  the  side  toward 

155 


TRIPOLI    THE    MYSTERIOUS 
Mecca;   a  less  ornate  but  similar  erection  ap- 
peared on  the  opposite  wall,  whence  an  assist- 
ant reader  had  some  part  in  Friday  services. 

The  pleasant  sound  of  running  water,  a  dis- 
tinctive feature  of  Mohammedan  mosques,  es- 
pecially welcome  in  this  dry  and  sun-baked 
land,  filled  the  great  edifice  with  a  gentle  mur- 
mur. A  few  devout  Moslems  entered,  made 
their  genuflexions  and  withdrew  softly.  Not 
essentially  different,  except  in  its  numerous 
domes,  from  the  ancient  mosques  in  Algiers 
which  are  readily  open  to  visitors,  it  was  of 
greater  interest  in  never  having  before  ad- 
mitted unbelievers,  and  there  was  no  sugges- 
tion of  "  effect,"  with  an  eye  toward  tourist 
appreciation. 

With  an  excess  of  courtesy,  however,  we 
were  even  permitted  to  ascend  the  slender 
green  and  white  minaret,  whence  the  hooded 
muezzin  had  made  us  familiar  with  his  not 
always  unmelodious  intonation.  The  spiral 
stairway  was  decidedly  contracted,  and  lined 
with  reserve  stores  of  small  lamps  full  of  oil; 

1156 


MOSQUES 

so  that  during  the  climb  I  was  forced  to  take 
my  hat,  almost  my  life,  in  my  hand. 

From  the  summit  a  vastly  impressive  view 
was  gained,  over  the  white  city,  the  sapphire 
sea,  and  the  yellow  desert  with  its  fringe  of 
palms. 

Interested  spectators  emerged  upon  sur- 
rounding roof-terraces,  gazing  upward  at  the 
unwonted  sight  of  infidels  ensconced  on  the 
very  apex  of  holiness;  but  all  seemed  suffi- 
ciently friendly,  and  no  suggestion  that  we 
should  descend  was  made  until  the  time  ap- 
proached for  prayer-call. 

The  great  mosque  was  dusky  with  twilight 
as  we  passed  through,  a  few  of  the  faithful 
silently  prostrate;  the  narrow  streets  outside 
filled  with  donkeys  and  goats,  vendors,  camels, 
and  countless  nationalities  seemed  a  different 
world. 

But  this  was  not  our  only  experience  of 
closed  and  hitherto  unprofaned  sanctuaries. 
Five  years  later,  by  invitation  of  the  Pasha, 
who  sent  as  our  guard  several  imposing  officers 

157 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
with  yards  of  sword,  we  visited  others,  and 
heretofore  the  most  inviolate,  of  these  impos- 
ing edifices,  even  to  the  top  of  another  lofty 
minaret.  Manifestly  to  the  consternation  and 
disapproval  of  the  caretakers,  we  stepped  in- 
side, removed  our  shoes  as  one  would  in  a 
Buddhist  temple  in  Japan,  and  gazed  about  the 
lofty  interior.  A  certain  guardian  of  a  mosque 
peacefully  slumbering  at  his  post  was  sum- 
marily aroused  by  one  of  our  Turkish  escort 
with  several  well-directed  blows  of  the  flat  of 
his  sword,  not  necessarily  painful  except  to 
dignity,  but  extremely  effective  for  bringing 
to  a  sudden  end  such  inopportune  naps. 

One  of  the  most  noteworthy  mosques  is  the 
Jamah  Hamed  Pasha,  near  the  gate  Fum  el- 
Bab.  Known  as  the  "  great  Caramanli 
mosque/'  it  has  a  fine  octagonal  minaret.  Its 
splendid  pillars  are  of  marble,  and  the  walls 
up  to  the  Koran  frieze  are  formed  of  tiles, 
in  soft  greens  and  yellows  with  a  bit  of  blue. 
The  ceilings  are  decorated  with  great  dignity, 
and  the  stair  rails  of  inlaid  marble  are  very 

158 


MOSQUES 

heavy  and  of  good  design.  On  each  side  of 
the  arched  alcove  beside  the  pulpit,  where  the 
Imam  prays  when  the  muezzin  above  is  call- 
ing to  devotion,  are  huge  brass  candelsticks ; 
beyond,  a  tall  clock.  Praying  into  this  niche, 
the  Imam  will  always  face  Mecca. 

A  small  railed  enclosure  in  one  corner  cov- 
ered with  a  rug  served  some  teacher  as  ex- 
pounding ground  to  a  class  of  young  men,  but 
it  was  primarily  for  the  Friday  seat  of  the 
Pasha.  All  the  mosques  had  that  feature. 

The  Sidi  Dragut  is  said  to  contain  relics 
of  the  prophet.  The  handsomest  minaret,  oc- 
tagonal and  lofty,  with  two  balconies,  adorns 
the  mosque  we  had  already  visited,  El-haj 
Mustafa  Gurgeh  of  the  seventeen  domes,  stand- 
ing near  the  British  Consulate.  A  pretty 
rounded  minaret,  also  close  by,  was  that  of 
the  mosque  Jamah  of  Sidi  Salem.  All  have 
fine  and  impressive  features,  and,  the  Pasha's 
will  being  law,  we  went  to  six  or  seven.  In 
one  was  a  carved  screen  to  shelter  the  few 
women  allowed  to  attend  as  a  modern  conces- 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
sion.  The  Mohammedans  were  most  sincere 
in  their  religious  convictions  and  practice,  old 
Mufta  of  the  Consulate  being  an  especially 
handsome  and  noble  specimen  of  the  high- 
minded  and  religious  Arab. 

It  is  believed  by  experts  in  the  history  of 
religions  that  the  Arabs  are  of  Semitic  stock, 
idolatry  having  been,  about  the  time  of  Mo- 
hammed, but  recently  introduced  among  them. 
Even  before  the  prophet  certain  reformers  had 
similar  ideals,  of  whom  four  of  these  thought- 
ful men  were  contemporaneous.  While  a  most 
remarkable  leader,  the  character  and  career  of 
Mohammed  were  not  beyond  explanation.  Men 
of  the  Jewish  race  were  all  about,  and  obli- 
gation to  them  was  constant.  He  saw  the  ad- 
vantage of  having  a  sacred  book,  and  sought 
to  make  alliance  with  them,  but  was  not  will- 
ing to  take  their  book  as  the  basis  of  a  new 
religion.  Yet  borrowing  continually  from  them 
for  the  Koran,  especially  from  the  Midrash  of 
the  Talmud,  his  perfected  scheme  shows  also 
the  influence  of  Zoroastrianism.  He  perhaps 

1 60 


MOSQUES 

felt  it  necessary  to  make  concessions  to  exist- 
ing idolatry,  as  shown  in  the  black  stone  of 
the  Kaba  at  Mecca.  Mohammed  was  undoubt- 
edly sincere  in  the  main,  as  are  his  followers 
to-day.  And  the  constant  turning  toward 
Mecca,  the  utter  devotion  of  the  sober  faces, 
became  very  impressive,  as,  all  occupations  in- 
stantly dropped  for  the  moment,  the  mind  was 
directed  from  this  world  to  another. 


i6r 


XXV 

FUNERALS 

Frequently  funeral  processions  swept 
through  the  streets,  swiftly,  silently.  Over 
thirty  men  wrapped  in  white  passed,  one  burn- 
ing afternoon,  chanting  over  and  over  again, 
very  slowly  and  solemnly: 


Two  of  them  carried  a  coffin  raised  upon 
their  heads,  draped  in  rich  and  beautiful 
brightly  striped  silk,  upon  which  lay  two  or 
three  sleeveless  jackets  of  velvet  embroidered 
in  gold.  Just  behind  them  followed  a  man 
bearing  upon  his  head  a  tiny  coffin  covered 
with  silk.  Still  behind  walked  three  Moslem 
women,  tightly  wrapped  in  barracans,  each 
with  one  dark  eye  uncovered,  not  quite  so 

162 


.S3 


FUNERALS 

bright  as  usual.  The  strange,  slow  chant  and 
swift  procession  were  curiously  affecting. 

Two  domes  on  the  headland,  conspicuous  as 
the  harbour  is  entered,  were  long  supposed  to 
be  tombs  of  the  Caramanli  Pashas,  but  later 
researches  have  shown  that  a  certain  Sultana, 
misbehaving  in  Constantinople,  was  banished 
to  Tripoli.  So  homesick  as  to  become  really 
ill,  she  begged  that,  dying  on  that  far  shore, 
she  might  be  laid  on  land  projecting  as  far  as 
possible  toward  her  beloved  Constantinople. 
This  accounts  for  one  tomb ;  the  other  is  prob- 
ably that  of  a  Caramanli  Pasha. 

Very  beautiful  must  have  been  these  grace- 
ful and  richly  decorated  domes.  Their  ceilings 
still  show  a  delicate  tracery  of  Moorish  stucco, 
originally  lace-like  and  lovely.  The  fine  green 
tiles,  carved  stone  sarcophagi  with  tiled  bases 
and  exquisite  finish  throughout  are  now  but 
wrecks  of  former  beauty.  Vandal  hands  have 
broken,  stolen,  mutilated,  until  only  suggestions 
remain.  Barbarous  hordes  have  removed  doors 
and  everything  else  possible,  have  broken  the 

163 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

windows  and  reduced  stone  and  tiles  to  frag- 
ments. Nature's  elements  have  completed  the 
devastation. 

Near  by  the  Arab  cemetery  occupies  a  fine 
promontory  washed  by  gentle  Mediterranean 
surf. 

A  little  farther  away  lies  the  English  ceme- 
tery at  Shara  Shat,  near  which  was  the  villa  of 
one  of  our  English  friends.  Across  the  bay 
and  along  a  dazzling  beach  gleamed  the 
Pasha's  castle.  Hard  it  is  to  imagine  that 
ancient  pile  as  turned  to  modern  uses. 

On  one  well-remembered  afternoon  the 
domes  and  minarets  of  Tripoli  stood  out 
against  the  sunset  like  some  fairy  city  of  a 
dream.  In  imagination  I  had  been  trying 
to  reconstruct  the  daintiness  of  the  original 
decoration  under  the  Caramanli  dome,  and  to 
follow  backward  the  long,  long  story  into  a 
vanishing  past. 

A  grave  had  just  been  dug,  for  some  old 
woman,  after  the  usual  fashion  not  more  than 
eighteen  inches  deep.  A  few  minutes  later  the 

164 


In  the  garden,  Shara  Shat 


On  the  gallery 


FUNERALS 

funeral  train  appeared.  A  richly  'dressed  blind 
man  led  the  small  procession  of  white-draped 
men  and  women  along  the  sandy  way,  two  of 
the  company  bearing  the  coffin  aloft  as  usual, 
and  singing  all  together,  this  time  very  rapidly 
and  constantly  reiterated. 


They  stopped  for  five  minutes  in  an  angle  of 
some  buildings,  while  passages  from  the  Koran 
were  read;  and  everybody,  instead  of  uncover- 
ing heads  in  respect,  shielded  them  more  com- 
pletely, but  removed  their  slippers.  At  the 
shallow  grave  the  poor  woman  was  taken  from 
her  coffin,  merely  a  temporary  receptacle, 
wrapped  more  tightly  in  her  barracan,  and 
placed  in  the  grave,  then  covered  thinly  with 
earth  and  stones.  A  plaster  slab  would  after- 
ward be  manufactured  above  her.  So  far, 
rich  and  poor  were  served  alike;  but  the  final 
form  of  the  monument  indicated  the  social 
status  of  the  sleeper  beneath.  A  pointed  or 
gabled  shape  revealed  his  former  humble  sta- 

165 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

tion;  a  rectangular  block  with  bowls  or  sau- 
cers sunken  in  the  cement  told  a  story  of 
wealth  and  importance.  These  receptacles, 
however,  were  not  for  flowers,  as  one  might 
imagine,  but  to  hold  water  for  birds.  Every 
flat-topped  grave  had  these  merciful  inserts. 
The  birds  are  said  to  bring  good  fortune,  so 
their  drinking  basins  were  not  provided  for 
wholly  philanthropic  reasons. 


166 


XXVI 
AN  ARAB  LUNCHEON 

"  It  is  too  hot  to  ride,"  said  our  interpreter 
on  the  day  when  we  had  been  invited  to  an 
Arab  luncheon  given  by  one  of  the  wealthiest 
Jewish  families  in  Tripoli,  at  their  country 
place  about  a  mile  down  the  beach. 

Surrounded  by  gardens  luxuriantly  filled 
with  flowers,  fruits  and  vegetables,  the  great 
well  constantly  pouring  into  a  large  open  cis- 
tern like  a  pleasure  pond,  from  the  center  of 
which  an  ample  fountain  sprung  upward  all 
day  long,  this  villa  was  one  of  the  great  es- 
tates of  the  region.  But  the  gibleh  had  been 
blowing  for  two  days,  the  air  was  scorching 
as  a  furnace,  and  a  dim  haze  of  desert  dust 
filled  every  crevice.  Even  one's  tightly  shut 
watch  and  camera  became  impregnated  with 
impalpable  particles.  The  thermometer  was 

167 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
well  above  a  hundred,  but  with  air  so  dry  it 
was  no  more  uncomfortable  than  far  lower 
temperatures   nearer   the   equator,    in   jungle 
regions. 

A  narrow  strip  of  shade  lay  along  open 
streets  close  to  the  houses.  Even  the  dusky 
Sudanese  were  lying  in  its  welcome  shelter, 
and  not  even  a  dog  or  a  donkey  ventured  into 
the  scorching  glare. 

"  Too  hot  to  ride! "  I  exclaimed,  "  I  should 
think  it  much  too  hot  to  walk ! " 

"No,"  he  replied.  "Take  umbrellas,  go 
slowly  —  you  will  feel  the  heat  less." 

Knowing  from  long  experience  that  native 
methods  of  combating  or  aiding  climates  are 
invariably  best,  I  submitted,  and  we  set  forth, 
the  only  living  beings  astir. 

Slowly  following  the  narrow  lines  of  shade, 
we  soon  emerged  into  the  pitiless  sunshine 
which  seemed  to  grip  one  with  scorching 
fingers.  That  mile  was  long  to  be  remem- 
bered, but  it  came  to  an  end  at  last,  in  gar- 
dens facing  the  sea. 

168 


AN   ARAB    LUNCHEON 

When  the  servants  had  opened  the  great 
gates  and  ushered  us  in  through  the  house 
doors,  it  was  like  entering  a  cellar.  The 
dusky  coolness  seemed  a  haven  of  rest  in- 
side those  thick  walls  where  no  heat  could 
penetrate. 

Iced  drinks  in  tall  glasses  were  brought  at 
once,  and  my  hostess  soon  appeared,  very 
gorgeously  arrayed  in  elegant  native  costume. 
This  was  full  trousers  of  blue  and  white  silk, 
barracan  of  pink  silk,  and  sleeveless  jacket  of 
purple  velvet  heavily  embroidered  with  gold. 
Her  braided  hair  was  tied  into  a  blue  and 
white  silk  handkerchief.  Heavy  earrings  of 
unalloyed  yellow  gold  weighted  her  ears  and1 
strings  of  sequins  draped  neck  and  shoulders. 
Wide  bracelets,  also  of  soft,  pure  gold,  cov- 
ered her  arms  nearly  to  the  elbow,  and  her 
heelless  gilt  slippers  were  merely  caught  on 
her  dainty  toes.  My  prettiest  embroidered 
white  frock,  which  I  had  worn  to  honour  the 
occasion,  paled  into  utmost  insignificance  be- 
side this  array  of  splendour,  and  both  my  hos- 

169 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

pitable  hostess  and  several  of  her  assembled 
friends  seemed  to  agree  in  that  opinion. 
Through  the  interpreter  they  asked  many 
questions  about  my  garb  —  why  I  wore  only 
two  colours,  were  n't  the  white  shoes  very  hot, 
and  the  gloves  ?  Did  I  make  the  little  embroid- 
ered flowers?  They  could  appreciate  that 
work,  but  otherwise  they  evidently  disapproved 
politely  of  white  gowns;  and  soon,  surround- 
ing me  in  a  buzzing  circle  of  interested  and 
rainbow-coloured  femininity,  they  first  inti- 
mated gently  and  then  definitely  proposed  that 
I  should  be  arrayed  in  garments  similar  to  their 
own.  Like  happy  children,  they  followed  me 
to  the  large,  airy  bedroom  of  our  hostess,  stay- 
ing until  a  set  of  wonderful  articles  was 
chosen;  and  then  courteously  retired,  leaving 
two  maids  to  help  me  into  the  unaccustomed 
regalia. 

I  was  fearfully  and  wonderfully  composed! 
The  garments,  in  shape  and  texture  like  those 
worn  by  all  the  other  ladies,  and  of  just  as 
many  colours,  were  only  slightly  different  in 

170 


AN   ARAB    LUNCHEON 

combination ;  and  except  in  the  matter  of  hair- 
dressing  were  quite  becoming!  The  bracelets, 
flat  pieces  of  pure  hammered  gold,  bent  to  fit 
the  arm,  were  so  heavy  and  impervious  that 
they  seemed  the  hottest  things  I  had  ever  ex- 
perienced. However,  I  was  very  proud  of  my 
yards  of  precious  sequins,  and  felt  unusually 
wealthy  and  important.  When  I  emerged  into 
the  drawing-room,  there  was  a  distinct  sensa- 
tion —  enthusiasm  knew  no  bounds.  But  more 
than  once  before  I  was  released,  I  sighed  for 
my  cool  white  frock. 

A  stereoscope  was  produced,  and  all  of  us, 
humble  little  oriental  ladies,  looked  meekly  at 
the  pictures,  our  only  diversion. 

As  the  household  was  not  of  the  religion  of 
the  prophet,  the  husbands  of  this  company  had 
also  been  invited;  soon  they  appeared,  greet- 
ing us  as  we  sat  in  a  modest  circle  on  the  floor. 
Among  them  came  the  Astronomer,  evidently 
much  impressed  by  this  array  of  splendour,  and 
quite  failing  to  notice  any  previous  acquaint- 
ance, so  disguised  by  unaccustomed  glory.  I 

171 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

heard  him  ask  if  I  had  not  yet  arrived  —  and 
at  the  moment  happened  to  meet  his  eye.  A 
more  astonished  scientist  has  rarely  been  seen. 
His  expression  was  untranslatable;  but  with 

X 

good  grace  he  instantly  accepted  the  situa- 
tion, to  the  infinite  delight  of  the  ladies, 
who  had  gleefully  watched  his  unconscious 
entrance. 

Before  long  the  company  was  summoned  to 
the  dining-room,  cool,  dim,  with  lofty  ceiling, 
and  many  servants  in  waiting.  Before  each 
guest  was  a  pile  of  ten  or  eleven  plates,  and 
the  first  course,  placed  upon  the  top  one,  was 
not  wholly  easy  to  manipulate.  With  its  re- 
moval came  a  slight  increase  of  comfort,  which 
continued  in  arithmetical  progression  as  the 
luncheon  went  on.  Many  delicious  but  mysti- 
fying Arab  dishes  were  served,  as  well  as  the 
inevitable  and  always  appetizing  cus-cus,  a 
variety  of  novel  vegetables  in  hot  and  spicy 
sauces,  and  finally  little  cakes  and  welcome 
Turkish  coffee. 

It  was  after  four  o'clock  before  we  rose  from 
172 


1 

3 


AN   ARAB    LUNCHEON 

the  table,  and  nearly  six  when,  once  more  ar- 
rayed in  normal  costume,  I  mounted  a  home- 
ward-ambling camel,  for  a  more  familiar  but 
equally  delicious  eight  o'clock  dinner  at  the 
Consulate. 


173 


XXVII 
ECLIPSE  PREPARATIONS 

Selection  of  the  exact  spot  for  setting  up 
telescopes,  finding  workmen  intelligent  enough 
for  labours  often  exacting,  a  judicious  choosing 
among  amateurs  always  more  than  ready  to 
"  help,"  night-time  testing  of  instruments  for 
weeks  beforehand,  engaging  photographers 
and  fitting  up  temporary  dark-rooms  —  all  this 
work  the  Astronomer  must  accomplish. 

As  far  as  mechanical  preparation  was  con- 
cerned, we  were  hampered  by  the  nationalities 
and  religions  of  the  workmen,  so  that  one  set 
or  another  was  always  off  for  its  weekly  holi- 
day. No  Mohammedan  would  work  on  Friday, 
no  Jew  on  Saturday,  and  Sunday  was  not  on 
our  own  list  of  toiling  days.  These  three,  with 
the  various  feast  and  fast  and  sacred  days  of 
the  month  Ramadan,  interfered  with  astro- 

174 


Eclipse  preparations 


A  spectral  array  ...  set  to  catch  a  shadow 


ECLIPSE    PREPARATIONS 

nomical  progress  somewhat  seriously.  Also 
the  variation  in  language  was  often  a  barrier 
to  complete  understanding  of  delicate  points. 
A  few  words  of  Arabic,  Turkish,  Greek  and 
Italian  usually  sufficed  to  get  the  day  intelli- 
gently started,  and  the  Astronomer's  linguistic 
facility  soon  placed  his  tasks  well  in  hand  by 
the  polyglot  community.  There  was,  too,  one 
never-failing  resource,  for  when  no  Mediter- 
ranean tongue  succeeded  in  impressing  his 
varied  servitors,  as  a  last  resort  he  would  hurl 
a  few  emphatic  Japanese  words  among  his 
waiting  artisans,  who,  singularly  enough,  never 
seemed  to  fail  of  his  meaning  when  this  acute 
stage  was  reached. 

In  1900  many  telescopes  were  set  up  on  the 
Consulate  terrace,  all  painted  white,  as  well  as 
mountings  and  accessories,  that  they  might 
absorb  less  of  the  blinding  heat  in  which  all 
day  they  baked  —  a  spectral  array,  indeed,  set 
to  catch  a  shadow.  All  were  attached  to  one 
large  central  tube,  and  each  was  furnished 
with  an  endless  chain  of  photographic  plates 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
for  exposure,  making  over  a  hundred  pictures 
during  the  fifty  seconds  of  totality. 

The  general  idea  was  much  the  same  as  that 
of  the  Astronomer's  former  inventions  used  in 
Africa  and  Japan,  in  which  pneumatic  and 
electric  power  had  each  been  successfully  ap- 
plied; but  the  depth  of  the  Consulate  court- 
yard made  possible  the  use  of  mere  gravity  as 
the  moving  force,  and  an  ingenious  system  of 
cords  and  pulleys  was  accurately  adjusted. 
The  cords  were  "  tripped  "  at  the  proper  point 
for  exposures  by  beads  from  Moslem  rosaries ; 
the  weights  were  buckets  of  desert  sand. 

A  different  but  equally  effective  arrange- 
ment for  the  telescopes  on  the  Consulate  ter- 
race was  made  for  the  second  eclipse. 

Certain  reasons  make  it  highly  desirable  to 
multiply  photographs  of  the  corona  during  a 
single  eclipse.  Many  must  still  be  studied 
before  coronal  nature  can  be  fully  known, 
its  problems  entirely  unravelled.  When  that 
comes,  the  whole  story  of  the  sun  can  perhaps 
be  told.  Meantime,  not  only  is  it  well  to  com- 

176 


ECLIPSE    PREPARATIONS 

pare  representations  of  many  coronas  of  dif- 
ferent years,  which  vary  greatly  in  shape  and 
size  and  evidences  of  solar  activity,  but  to  col- 
late all  those  photographs  taken  during  the 
swift  progress  of  any  one  totality.  Thus  far 
no  change  in  this  delicate  halo  of  ethereal 
light  has  been  detected  during  its  few  mo- 
ments of  visibility  at  any  given  locality,  nor 
even  between  the  observable  beginning  and 
the  end  of  the  track,  separated  by  more  than 
two  hours  of  actual  time. 

How  rapidly,  then,  do  alterations  in  the 
corona  take  place  which,  from  one  eclipse  to 
another,  modify  its  whole  appearance  —  once 
a  smooth  circle,  again  a  broken  and  irregular 
ring;  sometimes  showing  long  and  immensely 
extended  streamers,  at  the  next  occasion  a 
quiet,  petal-like  development,  without  emphasis 
in  any  direction?  No  one  has  yet  discovered. 

A  connection  between  sun-spot  epochs  and 
coronal  streamers  has  been  found.  Some- 
times, as  we  know,  rapid  changes  occur  in 
the  spots,  and  probably  the  corona,  invisible, 

177 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
may  undergo  similar  fluctuations.  If  a  hun- 
dred photographs  of  a  single  totality  could 
be  taken,  extending  from  its  first  to  its  last 
second,  not  impossibly  changes  might  be  de- 
tected, undoubtedly  faint  and  slight,  but  no 
less  significant,  beginning  the  riddle's  answer. 
But  the  one,  two  or  three  minutes  of  most 
totalities  are  not  enough  for  a  single  astron- 
omer to  take  even  twenty  or  thirty  photo- 
graphs by  hand.  Some  mechanical  means 
must  be  used  to  multiply  them.  And  such 
a  plan  was  again  successfully  carried  out 
through  the  mechanical  ingenuity  of  the 
Astronomer. 

But  even  after  all  contingencies  have  been 
provided  for,  smaller  necessities  sometimes 
arise  which  could  not  have  been  anticipates. 
For  instance,  one  day  a  few  yards  of  catgut, 
or  the  strongest  possible  tennis-racquet  or 
violin  string  was  suddenly  required.  Never 
can  I  forget  my  frantic  rush  for  catgut  — 
wanted  immediately.  How  to  accomplish  that 
strange  errand  in  Arabic,  I  did  not  know.  At 

178 


ECLIPSE   PREPARATIONS 

so  early  a  morning  hour  the  special  interpreter 
was  not  yet  at  hand,  nor  could  our  friends 
be  found  then  at  a  moment's  notice;  but  one 
of  the  clerks  in  the  cable  office  who  spoke  a 
few  words  of  English  essayed  to  accompany 
me  on  this  singular  search. 

At  last  he  seemed  to  understand  what  was 
wanted,  and  away  we  sped.  Ordinarily  a  very 
rapid  walker,  I  soon  found  myself  quite  dis- 
tanced. Without  running,  my  guide  made 
record  time.  From  one  place  to  another  we 
went  like  the  wind  —  but  never  found  the  cat- 
gut. The  baggy  Turkish  trousers  flew  on 
ahead,  and  once  the  eager  boy  met  an  intimate 
friend,  who  evidently  did  not  see  me  bringing 
up  the  rear.  He  came  affectionately  up  to  my 
courier,  both  hands  outstretched  in  greeting. 
But  my  lad  was  not  to  be  deterred  from  his 
quest.  He  took  the  friendly  hands,  indeed, 
but  only  for  the  purpose  of  putting  their  owner 
on  one  side,  gently  though  with  vigour.  I  still 
have  the  picture  of  that  friend's  grieved  and 
amazed  expression  as  he  was  thus  summarily 

179 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 
dismissed,  without  an  explanatory  word,  while 
his  acquaintance  sped  on  like  fate,  followed  by 
a  flying  female  in  white. 

One  of  the  most  interested  spectators  of  the 
preparations  was  a  deaf  white  Angora  cat, 
which  insisted  upon  examining  every  opera- 
tion with  much  thoroughness.  The  Astrono- 
mer, being  fond  of  these  not  ungentle  adjuncts 
of  humanity,  was  rather  pleased  at  the  con- 
stant attentions  of  his  little  friend,  although 
she  generally  stationed  herself  for  a  comfort- 
able nap  in  the  tube  of  the  telescope  being  at 
the  moment  adjusted.  But  one  morning  sev- 
eral things  went  wrong,  and  the  calm  philos- 
ophy to  which  I  had  grown  accustomed  was 
evidently  broken,  for  bits  of  sentences  emerged 
from  the  depths  of  instruments  in  which  the 
astronomical  head  and  person  were  immersed, 
suggestive  of  an  almost  mundane  irritation. 
They  gave  me  much  glee,  and  were  evidently 
uttered  without  thought  of  any  possible  au- 
ditor, sympathetic  or  foreign. 

"  One  man  Arabic,  one  Turk,  one  Maltese 
180 


ECLIPSE   PREPARATIONS 

—  can't  understand  each  other  or  me.  Can't 
set  down  a  cup  of  sand  but  some  nationality 
steps  into  it.  The  deaf  cat  plays  with  pulleys 
and  cords,  until  they  are  all  tied  up  in  knots, 
and  might  lead  to  Arcturus  or  Hades  for  all 

I  can  see.  Where  is  my ?  "  The  rest 

became  inaudible,  trailing  oil  into  silence  more 
significant  than  words. 

But  still  the  work  progressed,  whether  the 
gibleh  blew,  bringing  a  fine  golden  haze  of 
sand  from  the  desert,  turning  the  air  hot  and 
dry  like  a  furnace,  or  whether  the  sea  wind 
came  in  from  the  blue  Mediterranean,  making 
long  and  lovely  days  of  fresh  beauty  to  rival 
the  rarest  of  remembered  Junes. 

And  at  last  all  was  in  readiness ;  it  remained 
only  for  sun  and  moon  and  atmosphere  to  do 
their  part. 


181 


XXVIII 
THE  ECLIPSE  OF  1905 

On  this  second  visit  more  or  less  confidence 
was  expressed  that  no  harm  would  follow  the 
eclipse,  one  old  Arab  remarking  happily  that 
the  Astronomer  came  before  to  take  their  sun 
away,  now  he  was  coming  to  put  it  back,  an 
operation  of  which  he  seemed  distinctly  to 
approve. 

But  belief  was  evident  that  hereafter  such 
an  occurrence  was  to  be  regularly  expected 
every  five  years.  I  hope  our  numerous  friends 
of  many  undistinguishable  nationalities  have 
not  thought  the  war  a  result  of  our  innocent 
eclipses;  but  they  will  have  a  long  immunity. 
Although  the  sun  may  rise  in  eclipse  in  1936, 
no  corona  will  be  seen  again  in  Tripoli  until 
2027. 

August  30  was  coming  on  apace,  and  the  day 
182 


Etim  Bey,  a  Turkish  exile 


THE  ECLIPSE  OF  1905 
before  grew  very  hot.  For  a  week  the  As- 
tronomer had  not  attempted  to  go  to  bed  at 
all,  catching  a  nap  here  and  there  as  he  could 
in  intervals  of  observing  stars,  adjusting  in- 
struments and  preparing  generally;  and  one 
hour,  or  two  at  most,  covered  all  the  sleep  he 
had  in  each  twenty-four. 

On  eclipse  day  I  rose  as  usual  about  four  — 
so  did  the  baker's  smudge ;  but  the  Pasha  had 
given  orders,  and  no  fires  were  made  later 
in  the  day,  the  streets  were  sprinkled  contin- 
ually, to  prevent  possible  dust,  and  the  Fran- 
ciscan Fathers  had  politely  offered  to  have 
their  church  clock  stopped  from  its  loud  strik- 
ing during  the  eclipse,  that  those  fleeting  mo- 
ments marked  by  Lieutenant  Janoupoulus  on 
our  old  Arab  bell  might  not  be  interrupted  by 
alien  sounds. 

The  early  morning  sky  was  pale  daffodil, 
with  Orion  and  Sirius,  Jupiter  and  Venus, 
shining  resplendent;  but  the  heat  even  then 
was  remarkable  in  that  land  of  life-giving 
breezes.  A  slight  prophetic  gibleh  had  begun 

183 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
the  day  before,  which  we  hoped  might  be  only 
a  false  alarm.  But  evidently  there  was  reality 
in  its  warning,  for  the  heat  increased  intoler- 
ably. By  the  time  I  reached  the  Consulate 
roof-terrace,  where  all  was  in  readiness,  the 
thermometer  stood  at  a  hundred  and  one.  A 
fairly  strong  south  wind  blew,  and  all  the  time 
the  sea  horizon  seemed  drawing  in,  nearer 
and  nearer,  dim  and  beautiful,  pale,  smooth. 

Beyond  the  Sultana's  tomb  the  fringe  of 
palms  grew  mistily  yellow,  the  desert  shim- 
mered with  heat.  All  the  flags  blew  off  toward 
the  north,  and  Arabs,  Jews,  Italians,  Maltese, 
even  the  Sudanese  and  Fezzani  clung  to  the 
narrow  shade  strip  in  the  street  canons  far 
below.  Sand  suspended  in  the  atmosphere  was 
rising  slowly  from  the  horizon  and  staining 
the  pure  blue  in  an  ever-ascending  cloud.  By 
ten  o'clock  it  had  risen  three  or  four  degrees. 
Overhead  the  sky  was  splendidly  clear,  deep 
blue,  and  unflecked  by  vapour.  Above  the  Con- 
sulate courtyard  it  was  like  a  square  of  daz- 
zling sapphire. 

184 


THE    ECLIPSE   OF    1905 

The  Astronomer  kept  calmly  on  with  his 
final  preparations,  not  even  glancing  out  to  see 
how  his  sky  was  progressing,  but  I  remember 
a  distracted  morning  as  I  helped  a  bit  here 
and  there,  then  ran  from  balcony  to  terrace, 
from  one  corner  to  another  to  watch  the  ad- 
vancing gibleh  and  its  effect  on  the  atmos- 
phere. Steadily,  but  very  deliberately  rising, 
the  yellow  mass  crept  up  the  clear  blue  dome, 
ever  reaching  onward  to  the  sun  himself. 

Dignified,  handsome  Challum,  an  Arab  Jew, 
and  head  carpenter,  had  picked  up  half  a  dozen 
English  words  which  he  now  brought  forth 
reassuringly.  "  No  gibleh,  afternoon,"  he  said, 
as  I  peered  once  more  over  the  desert,  thick, 
yellow,  constantly  nearer.  An  hour  or  so 
later  he  beckoned  me  to  a  far  corner  of  the 
terrace,  pointing  seaward  to  a  well-known 
reef. 

"  Look !  "  he  said.  One  small  whitecap  broke 
lazily  over  the  rocks  out  of  a  smooth  and  oily 
sea.  This  was  his  proof  of  change. 

Before  noon  the  hot  blast  ceased  and  wind- 
'185 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

less  silence  fell.  Every  flag  hung  limp  upon 
its  mast.  Then  feebly,  hesitatingly  one  or  two 
stirred  slightly,  quivered,  gave  a  fitful  puff 
outward,  and  —  away  from  the  north!  The 
sea  wind  was  beginning  —  we  were  saved. 
Shortly  after,  they  all  stood  out  straight  away 
from  the  blue  Mediterranean,  once  more  dark 
indigo  and  ruffled  into  a  thousand  joyous 
wrinkles  and  whitecaps.  Within  an  hour  the 
aspiring  sand  dropped  back  into  its  desert  hills 
and  valleys,  once  more  the  splendid  air  was 
free  from  stain,  the  horizon  retreated,  and 
clear  and  clean  the  afternoon  drew  on. 

Gibleh  was  conquered. 

Before  first  contact  the  usual  rehearsal 
was  conducted,  with  every  one  in  his  place, 
regular  assistants  and  amateur  helpers  all  in 
the  blinding  glare. 

News  of  the  eclipse  was  very  general.  In 
the  open  suk,  or  market,  groups  of  men  were 
sitting  beside  their  camels  in  grave  and  seri- 
ous, somewhat  doubtful,  expectation  as  the 
partial  eclipse  proceeded.  At  the  open-air 

:i86 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1905 

cafes  men  would  speak  quietly  of  its  prog- 
ress, their  companions  answering,  "  May  God 
be  gracious,"  when  all  lapsed  into  silence  and 
a  certain  awe. 

Gradually,  surrounding  roofs  filled.  A  few 
wise  persons  had  provided  tent-like  shelters 
from  the  brightness,  and  all  were  supplied  with 
smoked  glass.  Instead  of  gazing  steadfastly 
at  us,  as  the  whole  population  had  tried  to  do 
in  1900,  watching  for  some  entertainment  to 
take  place  on  the  Consulate  terrace,  this  time 
all  were  looking  at  the  sun. 

First  contact  came  promptly  at  1.43.  Very 
quickly  the  bite  out  of  the  dazzling  disc  grew 
larger,  and  the  stout  crescentic  sun  dwindled 
rapidly.  As  before,  the  brilliant  luminary  was 
more  than  half  covered  before  any  obvious 
change  occurred  in  light  and  heat.  Everything 
quieted  so  gradually  that  I  was  startled  to 
realize  how  the  shadow  had  crept  onward. 
Materials  for  my  drawing  of  the  corona  were 
at  hand,  but  they  could  not  be  used  until 
totality. 

187 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
The  fine  Gurgeh  minaret  with  its  two  bal- 
conies towering  above  the  mosque  was  filled 
with  white-robed  Moslems  gazing  skyward. 
As  the  light  failed  and  grew  lifeless  and  all 
the  visible  world  seemed  drifting  into  the 
deathly  trance  which  eclipses  always  produce, 
an  old  muezzin  emerged  from  the  topmost 
vantage  point  of  the  minaret,  calling,  calling 
the  faithful  to  remember  Allah  and  faint  not. 
Without  cessation,  for  over  fifteen  minutes  he 
Continued  his  exhortation,  in  a  voice  to  match 
the  engulfing  somberness,  weird,  insistent, 
breathless,  expectant. 

Between  eight  and  ten  minutes  before  to- 
tality a  strange  appearance  began  to  sweep 
across  the  whiteness  of  the  terrace  at  my  feet. 
For  an  instant  I  failed  to  recognize  what  I 
had  always  looked  for  in  previous  eclipses,  and 
had  never  seen,  but  which  nevertheless  I  was 
even  at  that  moment  expecting. 

As  I  saw  the  strange  wavering  light  and 
darkness,  my  first  thought  was,  "  Why !  the 
gibleh  stopped!  There  are  no  clouds!  What 

188 


1 


The  fine  Gurgeh  minaret  .  .  .  was  filled  with  white-robed  Moslems 
gazing  skyward 


THE    ECLIPSE    OF    1905 

is  coming  between  us  and  the  last  remnants 
of  sunlight?" 

For  one  brief  instant  I  thought  of  drifting 
smoke.  Then  with  a  start  I  realized  that  at 
last  I  was  seeing  actual  "  shadow  bands  "  — 
that  strange  quiver  of  mystery  which  creeps 
or  rushes  or  glides  across  the  world  just  be- 
fore the  moon's  shadow  completely  envelops 
the  landscape.  It  affected  me  singularly,  and 
I  observed  the  bands  with  great  care.  Both 
the  lines  of  light  and  shadow  were  very  nar- 
row, not  much  over  an  inch  in  width,  not 
straight,  but  slightly  and  irregularly  curved. 
As  I  faced  the  sun,  my  back  about  northeast, 
the  lengthwise  stretch  of  the  bands  was  from 
me  toward  the  sun,  and  they  moved  eastward 
with  great  rapidity,  thus  at  right  angles  to 
their  own  direction  as  well  as  to  that  of  the 
wind,  though  not  absolutely  straight  —  rather 
a  huge  curve  or  part  of  a  circle  whose  center 
was  the  sun. 

Elusive  as  wraiths  they  drifted  past  me, 
along  our  own  terrace,  the  lower  roofs  and 

:i89 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
off  over  the  city.  I  should  not  say  they  rushed 
along,  though  the  speed  was  very  great;  the 
motion  was  infinitely  more  airy  and  exquisite 
and  fitful  than  any  one  word  could  convey.  A 
pedestrian  could  not  have  kept  pace  with  them. 
Rising  and  falling  in  intensity,  they  faded,  al- 
most fainted,  from  sight,  and  five  times  they 
rose  again,  clear  and  distinct.  Absorbing  as 
this  strange  appearance  was,  I  nevertheless 
had  to  watch  for  totality,  to  give  the  signal 
for  Lieutenant  Janoupoulus  to  announce  on 
the  old  Arab  bell.  Also,  I  was  to  look  for  the 
final  breaking  up  of  the  slender  crescent  into 
Baily's  Beads,  so  marked  a  phenomenon  of  the 
1900  eclipse.  But  they  did  not  appear  this 
time. 

The  crescent  melted  from  sight  —  the  last 
ray  of  true  sunlight  was  quenched,  and  for 
twenty  seconds  I  had  seen  the  corona  nearly 
complete  to  the  failing  bright  spot.  It  seemed 
so  struggling  to  emerge,  to  come  into  sight 
and  knowledge  of  men,  that  it  must  show  itself 
even  before  the  appointed  time. 

190 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1905 

The  moment  of  totality  produced  an  im- 
mense impression  all  over  the  city.  Those 
detailed  to  watch  its  effect  upon  the  inhab- 
itants reported  that  nearly  all  stood  up,  while 
ejaculation  and  prayer  arose  from  hundreds, 
even  thousands  of  voices.  Many  spread  their 
hands  to  heaven  toward  the  sun,  saying,  "  God 
is  great,"  "What  God  willed  came  to  pass," 
"  May  God  be  gracious  to  His  servants." 

When  first  the  corona  flashed  unmistakably 
into  the  deep  blue  sky,  the  entire  city  burst  into 
irrepressible  applause,  a  rolling  wave  of  sound 
that  spread  and  spread  from  sea  to  silent  desert 
and  out  into  immensity. 

Freighted  with  some  new  message  from  the 
sun,  mysterious,  always  invisible  except  dur- 
ing these  flying  moments,  the  corona  knows 
its  own  pale  beauty  and  import,  and  would 
reveal  its  secret  if  permitted.  Once  again  in 
the  limpid  African  firmament  it  bloomed,  even 
as  the  celestial  flower  whose  perfectness  had 
haunted  me  for  five  years,  its  petals  white  with 
the  vivid  fire  of  seons  and  the  struggle  of  un- 

191 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
imaginable  conflagrations,  its  center  the  dark 
moon  ball  hung  there  by  mighty  force  to  show 
this  pregnant  blossoming,  then  carried  on  and 
away  relentlessly.  But  the  flower  is  always 
there,  only  our  clumsy  means  have  not  yet  re- 
vealed the  waiting  secrets. 

Evenly  developed  all  around,  another  proof 
of  the  suspected  connection  between  the  corona 
and  sun-spot  periods,  there  were  many  bright 
streamers,  but  no  long  ones.  Considerable 
detail  of  interwoven  filaments  was  evident,  but 
this  was  not  a  spectacular  corona;  it  was  a 
halo,  round,  yet  sharply  pointed.  I  drew,  and 
drew,  and  looked  and  drew  again;  and  all  the 
time  the  inexorable  bell  struck  out  its  warning 
every  fifteen  seconds.  One  of  the  least  dark 
of  total  eclipses,  all  sketching  went  on  merely 
by  coronal  light.  For  three  minutes  and  over 
the  wondrous  spectacle  lasted.  All  the  lower 
sky  was  warm  yellow,  and  Venus  sprang  out 
as  newly  made,  from  sky  depths  instead  of 
sea.  The  Tarhuna  mountains  leaped  into 
singular,  sudden  purple  prominence. 

192 


Evenly  developed  all  around 


THE   ECLIPSE   OF    1905 

An  intense  silence  fell  over  city  and  gardens, 
while  the  rare  heaven  flower  bloomed.  And 
then  —  a  gleam  of  actual  startling  sunlight 
shot  down,  but  I  was  able  to  follow  the  corona 
for  many  seconds  after.  It  seemed  to  fade 
reluctantly,  as  if  loath  to  leave  hurrying  cam- 
eras, eager  telescopes,  hastening  pencils.  But 
common  life  and  daylight  returned,  as  they 
always  seem  to  do  after  these  moments  of 
uplifted  silence. 

With  a  few  noteworthy  exceptions,  eclipses 
rarely  bring  discoveries  of  a  sensational  na- 
ture. Expeditions  generally  return  bringing 
just  a  little  more  light  on  some  large  solar 
problem,  the  whole  to  be  solved  only  after 
repeated  attacks  during  the  eagerly  seized 
moments  of  many  eclipses.  This  one  proved 
conclusively  the  law,  now  fully  established, 
that  the  1905  type  of  corona  is  inseparably 
related  to  a  thickly  spotted  sun.  But  why? 
The  answer  must  come  through  some  new 
magnetic  theory  of  the  distribution  of  the 
sun's  radiant  energy. 

193 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

To  a  truly  scientific  mind  even  a  fraction 
of  actual  fact,  newly  learned,  is  to  be  cher- 
ished, debated;  and  if  countless  expeditions 
should  be  required  to  complete  the  whole,  as- 
tronomers would  still  feel  amply  repaid  for 
any  exertion. 

What  is  so  valuable  as  truth?  And  truth 
is  fact,  often  painfully  dug  out  through  years 
of  toil  and  devotion. 

The  astronomer  deals  in  cycles,  and  rarely 
expresses  his  periods  in  terms  of  years.  As 
the  practically  inconceivable  distance  of  sun 
from  earth  is  the  footrule  of  the  universe, 
so  the  measure  of  astronomic  time  is  groups 
of  centuries;  persistent  patience  the  astron- 
omer's first  characteristic. 

Perfectly  the  apparatus  had  worked,  long- 
days  and  nights  of  sleepless  devotion  were 
rewarded. 

The  dark-room  was  full  of  records;  the 
eclipse  was  over. 


194 


XXIX 

THE  DESERT 

In  seashore  towns  one  feels  the  ocean  call- 
ing. Always  there  is  the  undercurrent  of 
knowing  it  is  there.  One  may  not  recognize 
its  compelling  presence  —  traffic,  talk,  teas, 
barter  and  gain  may  go  on  with  apparent  un- 
consciousness;  but  that  great  proximity  is 
never  quite  absent  from  the  constant  life  of 
the  community. 

In  Tripoli  one  similarly  feels  the  rolling 
Sahara  —  it  is  there,  close-creeping,  brooding, 
waiting  —  with  an  awfulness  not  to  be  ex- 
plained, an  immensity  like  the  ocean  itself,  a 
fascination  almost  uncanny  in  its  wind-swept 
spaces. 

Narrow  lanes  ankle  deep  in  sand  between 
mud  walls  and  thickets  of  olives  came  sud- 
denly to  an  end,  and  before  us  was  eternity  in 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
visible  form.  No  matter  how  hot  the  city,  over 
the  sand  a  fresher  air  seemed  always  to  pre- 
vail, an  etherealization  of  breathing,  perfec- 
tion of  experience  possible  to  the  lungs.  Who 
minded  a  world  enwrapped  in  blinding  sun- 
shine, or  the  blue  fire  of  the  heavens,  when 
air  fit  for  the  gods,  the  very  elysium  of  ether, 
was  filling  one  with  a  strange  ecstasy  of  life! 

The  oasis  was  left  behind.  Here  a  few 
castor-oil  plants,  there  a  milkweed  or  two, 
sparse  grass,  last  outpost  of  vegetation  creep- 
ing away  in  clumps,  all  soon  ceased,  and  only 
the  high  sand  ridges,  a  yellow  spray  whirling 
off  the  sharp-edged  tops  like  snowdrifts,  the 
wind,  sunset  and  silence  remained —  a  blessed 
healing  silence,  and  air  like  wine.  As  far  out 
as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  horizon  blended  in 
soft,  bluish  tints,  atmospheric  and  lovely. 

A  string  of  camels  moved  off  across  the 
illimitable  sand,  a  marabout  dome  rose  whitely, 
and  a  shepherd  in  gracefully  looped  brown  bar- 
racan, conducting  his  flock  of  goats,  played  on 
the  strange  bagpipes  with  an  effect  of  unmiti- 

196 


THE   DESERT 

gated  barbarism.  Behind  him  as  he  strode 
along  rose  the  pillars  of  the  last  well,  and  a 
few  camels  were  already  lying  down  for  the 
night  under  its  scattered  palms.  One  tree  more 
venturesome  than  the  rest  grew  far  out  beyond 
the  others,  and  as  evening  approached  a  lithe 
Arab  walked  boldly  up  its  stem  to  fasten  at  the 
top  his  earthen  "  monkey  "  for  the  night's  drip 
of  lakbe.  In  the  morning  a  mild  beverage, 
only  pleasantly  intoxicating,  would  fill  the  re- 
ceptacle. If  put  up  early  in  the  day  and  left 
until  evening,  a  more  fiery  liquid  is  thought 
to  be  collected. 

Could  one  ever  become  familiar  with  that 
enormous  waste  of  splendour  and  glory,  of 
richness  and  desolation !  Grand  in  its  cruelty, 
pitiless  in  beauty,  it  fascinates,  appalls,  enchains 
without  trying,  superbly  indifferent  whether  or 
not  we  care,  enriching  or  annihilating  with 
equal  aloofness,  radiant  in  atmosphere,  awful 
in  extent,  impermanent  yet  eternal. 

Silent  as  the  great  sky  spaces,  wind-swept 
like  the  hills  of  God,  waiting  passionless  for 

197 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
some  enormous  revelation  still  to  come,  Sahara 
bides  his  time.  And  men  and  camels  go  and 
come  in  pitiful  little  companies,  their  tracks  of 
to-day  obliterated  to-morrow,  traversing  bits 
of  the  immensity,  suffering  fatigue,  thirst,  heat- 
strokes as  they  go,  yet  the  calm  desert  broods 
on  uncaring,  itself  part  of  that  eternity  which 
cannot  ever  be  conquered  or  understood  or 
companioned,  constantly  changing,  yet  always 
and  forever  the  same. 

Here  and  there  high,  soft  hills  gave  vantage 
for  viewing  the  uneven  waste,  rippled  by  the 
wind  into  a  million  lovely  waves,  rhythmic, 
regular.  Ridges  and  mounds  apparently  per- 
manent are  really  as  evanescent  as  the  scenery 
of  a  dream.  The  gentle  summer  breeze  blow- 
ing with  such  dry,  enchanting  softness  is  the 
iron  hand  in  the  velvet  glove,  as  irresistible 
as  doom,  carving  hills  and  valleys  to  suit  itself, 
lifting  the  entire  desert  surface  off  and  on  at 
its  own  wild  will.  Restless,  changeful,  uneasy, 
it  makes  and  unmakes  capricious  scenery. 
Over  the  treeless  waste  a  camel  here  and  there 

198 


-I 

CJ 


THE   DESERT 

or  a  nomadic  Bedouin  encampment  was  sole 
evidence  of  human  life.  Even  the  ridge  on 
which  I  stood  might  be  gone  to-morrow,  a 
hollow  in  its  place. 

Silence  that  could  be  felt,  dryness  that  singed 
yet  exhilarated,  loneliness  beyond  words,  and 
soothing  stretches  of  warmly  undulating  pal- 
pitating yellow'  sand  flowed  about  one's  con- 
sciousness like  an  unfathomable  sea. 

A  Buddha  for  calm  irresponsiveness,  Nir- 
vana in  its  power  to  bring  forgetfulness,  a 
Sphinx  for  mystery  profound  and  impenetra- 
ble, eternity  in  its  silent  promise  and  trembling 
hope,  the  desert  seems  not  bounded  by  terres- 
trial limits.  It  is  a  psychical  condition,  outside 
and  beyond  geographical  terms.  Nothing 
nearer  than  the  aurora  borealis  could  touch  it 
on  the  north,  or  than  the  southern  cross  on 
its  far  spaces  in  great  African  wilds.  Sun- 
rise and  sunset  are  its  only  limits.  Time  here 
joins  hands  with  infinity,  with  the  very  gods 
who  stay  no  more  on  earth,  but  now  and  then 
vouchsafe  a  glimpse  of  their  wonder  and 

199 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

endlessness.  The  soul  might  even  find  itself 
in  desert  spaces,  where  the  voice  of  God  is 
audible,  and  the  breath  of  man  annihilated. 

As  the  mysterious  wind  increased,  pure  be- 
yond all  humanity's  needs,  eddies  and  currents 
and  drifts  of  sand  began  to  hurry  and  cascade 
and  circulate,  like  light  snow  in  a  New  England 
winter,  until  a  golden  haze  crowned  every  hill, 
and  tumbled  off  in  waves  of  glory  from  every 
ridge. 

The  sunset  glowed  and  burned,  intensified 
into  concentrated  colour  and  majesty,  and  one 
or  two  date  palms  stood'  out  in  silhouette 
against  its  celestial  conflagration.  The  surface 
of  the  sand  cools  as  evening  comes  on,  but 
underneath  it  is  still  hot  with  remembrance  of 
noon. 

Silent,  soft-footed  camels  passed  like  shad- 
ows of  grotesque  thoughts  in  the  gathering 
dusk,  and  the  stars  burned  singularly  near 
and  brilliant  in  the  velvet  blue  sky.  Never, 
even  at  sea,  do  stars  seem  so  close,  so  gor- 
geous, yet  so  friendly  as  over  the  illimitable 

200 


The  sunset  glowed  and  burned 


THE   DESERT 

wastes  of  the  warmly  pulsing  desert,  through 
its  dry  and  fragrant  air,  when  the  happy  wind 
has  softened  to  a  sweet  breathing. 

Over  the  sand,  out  of  the  sunset,  filling  the 
sky,  voices  whispered  which  speak  only  here, 
and  strange  currents  from  some  life  other  than 
this  flowed  through  and  onward  like  an  im-. 
mortal  atmosphere.  The  sand  gleamed  white 
and  spectral  through  miles  of  distance,  the 
stars  drew  nearer  and  more  near,  and  desert 
murmurs  clung  to  innermost  consciousness, 
while  life  held  its  breath  almost  for  pain,  yet 
with  inexplicable  joy,  waiting  for  —  who  could 
say  what  divine  afflatus ! 


20 1 


XXX 

B'  SALAAMA 

The  fascination  of  life  in  a  region  so  com- 
posite grew  with  each  day.  Square  houses 
like  solid  blocks  of  white  masonry,  domed 
mosques  and  tombs;  upward-springing  mina- 
rets crowned  by  golden  star  and  crescent;  fine 
Moorish  tiles  brutally  whitewashed;  the  pa- 
thetic memorials  of  Rome's  greatness,  the 
halted  arts  and  industries  —  all  combined  to 
give  full  sway  to  amazement,  deepest  interest, 
regret,  unavailing  desires. 

Can  one  properly  call  this  heterogeneous 
mass  of  humanity  a  people?  Are  their  rude 
leather  cushions,  straw  dish-covers,  rugs,  im- 
perfect carving  and  metal  working,  weaving 
and  pottery  art  at  all?  And  was  it  the  iron 
hand  of  Mohammedanism,  the  deadening 

202 


.•      •».*.. 


fe 

O, 


B'  SALAAMA 

power  of  Turkish  rule,  or  the  inertia  of  the 
desert  which  was  to  blame  for  this  sleeping 
province  ? 

Whatever  it  may  have  been,  Tripoli  was  a 
city  of  enchantment,  white  as  dreams  of  Para- 
dise, fringed  by  palms  and  olives,  and  steeped 
in  memories  of  the  centuries. 

Near  the  recently  completed  Roman  Catholic 
church,  attended  chiefly  by  Italians  and  Mal- 
tese, were  a  monastery  on  whose  roof-terrace 
the  brown-robed,  rope-girdled  friars  walked 
at  sundown,  and  a  convent,  whose  sweet- faced 
Sisters  asked  us  if  Spanish  was  the  only  lan- 
guage spoken  in  America.  From  high  mina- 
rets the  resonant  call  of  the  muezzins  to 
prayer  was  interspersed  with  church  bells,  as 
artistically  inconsistent  with  the  scenes  about 
as  the  penetrating  notes  of  an  untuned  piano 
issuing  from  a  certain  pink  dwelling  in  joyous 
rag-time  performed  by  one  deeply  satisfied 
Maltese  maiden.  But  these  were  foreign  in- 
fluences hardly  affecting  the  oriental  atmos- 
phere. Luncheons  in  harems,  weddings  at 

203 


TRIPOLI   THE   MYSTERIOUS 

which  not  even  the  bridegroom  was  present, 
afternoon  coffee  in  gardens  where  the  Turk- 
ish band  discoursed  interrogative  music  —  the 
golden  days  slipped  by  like  enchantment,  and 
Tripoli  crept  close  into  our  hearts,  never  to  be 
indifferently  remembered. 

With  unmounting  and  packing  of  telescopes, 
and  general  demolition  of  the  "  royal  obser- 
vatory," I  found  that  the  strange,  sordid,  poetic 
city  had  taken  fast  hold  of  my  heart.  Certain 
places,  surroundings,  persons,  even  casually 
seen,  are  instantly  recognized  as  one's  own. 
They  belong  vitally  to  ourselves.  Tripoli  and 
its  desert  were  never  alien,  despite  all  the 
strangeness  of  first  impressions. 

There  was  no  brass  plate  to  step  on,  no  sea- 
gate  to  pass  through  in  1905,  so  there  is  no 
oracular  certainty  that  we  shall  ever  return. 
But  I  feel  it  notwithstanding.  Once  more  I 
shall  see  that  noble  bay  curving  to  meet  its 
dazzling  sands.  Once  more  I  shall  breathe 
that  extraordinary  air,  fresh  from  the  labora- 
tory of  a  new  creation. 

204 


B'  SALAAMA 

Everybody  came  to  see  us  off;  the  old  pier 
was  crowded  by  friends  and  many  followed  us 
out  to  the  Djurjura,  on  whose  pleasant  after- 
deck  we  had  good-bye  tea  served  just  before 
sailing.  Our  special  escort  in  the  swift  gig 
flying  the  English  Consulate  flag  was  the 
Consul,  with  splendid  Mufta  and  Mohammed. 
Several  Greek  officers  came  off  in  their  launch 
from  the  Crete,  and  the  Pasha  sent  his  fare- 
wells by  officials  of  the  Castle  who  brought 
presents  and  every  good  wish.  Two  of  our 
most  valued  English  friends  were  last  to  leave 
us.  The  final  moments  were  non-hilarious. 

The  close-creeping  desert  with  its  exquis- 
itely pure  air,  the  palms  and  gardens,  the  city 
itself  —  all  came  in  one  bewildering  retrospect, 
as  I  watched  the  strip  of  blue  water  widen 
between  our  little  steamer  and  all  those 
enchantments. 

The  high  white  Consulate  grew  smaller  with 
distance;  the  friendly  British  flag  floated  over 
a  balcony  full  of  friendly  faces  and  hands 
waving  farewell. 

205 


TRIPOLI  THE  MYSTERIOUS 
And  now  Tripoli  has  been  bombarded  — 
her  conquerors  changed  once  more,  in  the  long 
story  of  her  vicissitudes.  That  old  lighthouse 
is  a  shapeless  white  mass;  and  all  the  sleepy 
life  is  shaken  from  its  lethargy.  The  fertile 
soil,  always  lurking  beneath  encroaching  sands, 
waiting  only  for  water  to  burst  into  blossom 
and  fruit,  will  be  cultivated  and  encouraged. 
The  creaking  wells,  unchanged  since  the  days 
of  Carthage,  will  soon  give  way  to  modern 
reservoirs,  pipes  will  replace  goatskins,  ma- 
chinery will  take  the  work  of  patiently  pacing 
cows  as  motive  power.  After  its  newest  crisis 
the  city  will  progress  in  modern  ways;  there 
may  even  be  telephones,  electric  light,  paving, 
automobiles  —  sometime. 

But  the  desert  cannot  be  conquered  at  once, 
nor  the  Tuaregs  who  traverse  its  mysterious 
spaces.  Always  there  will  be  strange  miles  of 
golden  sand  where  lurks  infinity. 

All  uncleanness  seems  washed  clean  in  its 
lonely  stretches ;  the  life-giving  sun  and  ardent 
air  must  still  bring  singular  joy,  the  eager 

206 


B'  SALAAMA 

morning  breeze,  the  opalescent  distance,  the 
plaintive  evening  sky —  all  will  continue  to  tell 
an  exquisite  if  inarticulate  story. 

That    Tripoli    will    remain,    whatever    the 
Powers  may  decree. 


207 


INDEX 


Abd  el-Mumin,  37 

Abdul  Hamid  II,  148 

Abu   Ainan,  King   of   Morocco, 

34 

Ahmed  Pasha,  36 
Albanians,  48,  64 
Alfalfa,  72 
Algiers,  14,  30 
Alhambra,  155 
American  Revolution,  39 
Amphorae,  57 
Amrus,  Jewish  village,  85 
Antiquities,  Grecian  and  Roman, 

26 

Araba,  19,  23,  74 
Arabian  authors,  16 
Arabic,  i,  29 
Arab  proverb,  7 
Arabs,  dream  figures,  50 
Archaeological  research,  72 
Aurelius,  Marcus,  68,  69 
Ayra,  Giuseppe,  36,  51 

Bab  el-Bahr  (Sea-gate),  17 

Babies,  no 

Baily's  Beads,  119,  124,  190 

Bainbridge,  40 

Bakers,  21,  64 

Balaid,  driver,  77 

Balloons  in  eclipse,  10 

Barbarossa,  35 

Barbary  Corsairs,  42 

inhabitants,  10 

name,  34 


pirates,  35 

powers,  39 

states,  14 

Barracan,  134,  155,  162,  169,  196 
Bashaw,  59,  61 
Bas-reliefs,  57 
Bedouin,  12,  47,  99, 131, 138,  139, 

199 

Belisarius,  33 
Benghazi,  53,  136 
Berbers,  33,  47,  50 
Berenice,  53 
Blacksmith,  85 
Blake,  Admiral,  35 
Borg-bu-lela,  34 
Bornu,  137 
Bornu  Kuka,  136 
Brass  plate,  28,  204 
Breakwater,  i 
Bridal  chamber,  99 
Bride,  94,  96-8,  100,  103-8,  110- 

12,  116,  117 
British  Consul  General,  u,  17, 

48,55 

B'  Salaama,  202 
Burj  el-Trab,  37 
Byram,  61 
Byzantine  General,  33 

Cactus,  84 

Caramanli  mosque,  158 

Pashas,  163 

princes,  36 

tomb,  163,  164 


209 


INDEX 


Caravans,  134,  135,  138,  139 
Carthage,  15,  16,  73,  206 
Cashabiya,  123 
Catania,  15 
Cavasse,  55,  147,  iS4 
Caves,  74,  78,  79 
Cemetery,  Arab,  164 

Catholic,  34 

English,  164 
Ceyrari  Barka,  32 
Challum,  185 
Charles  V,  2,  35 
City  gate,  28 
Cloudburst  in  1904,  71 
Coats  of  arms,  56 
Colugli,  47 

Constantinople,  36,  163 
Consulate-General,   56,   63,   119, 

123,  205 
Consulates,  31 
Consul,  French,  79 
Consul-General  of  Great  Britain, 

3,  147 
Corona,   n,   121-3,   i25-7>   *?6, 

177,  187,  190-3 
Corsairs,  35,  39,  42 
Corugli,  47 
Cowper,  H.  S.,  70 
Cretans,  64 
Cromwell,  35 
Cus-cus,  98,  130,  172 
Cyrenaica,  53 

Decatur,  40,  41 
Dervish,  30 
Desert,  195 

musicians,  134 

sands,  70,  77 

wildflowers,  77 
Dish  covers,  130 
Djerba,  14 
Djurjura,  205 
Dragut  the  Terrible,  35 


Earth  Fort  (Burj  el-Trab),  37 
Eastern  Telegraph  Co.,  121 
Eclipse, 

described,  187 

fear  of,  10 

future  in  Tripoli,  182 

instruments,  176 

made  by  Allah,  10 

of  1000,  119 

of  1905,  182 

preparation  for,  174 

Tripolitan,  8 

trip  to  Tripoli,  8 
Egypt,  14,  32 
Embroideries,  90 
Esashi,  Japan,  124,  125 
Esparto  grass,  48,  49,  72,  129, 151 
Etim  Bey,  149 
Exiles,  146,  148 

Faldetta,  50 
"Father  of  Night,"  34 
Feathers,  ostrich,  134,  151 
Ferdinand  V,  34 
Fezzan,  14,  135 
Fezzani,  47,  50, 132, 184 
Fort,  Turkish,  76 
Fountain,  Turkish,  26 
Franciscans,  30,  122,  183 
French  astronomer,  79 

Consul,  79 

school  for  boys,  51 

steamers,  15 
Fum  el-Bab,  158 
Funduks,  49 
Funeral,  162,  165 

Gabes,  16,  52 
Gardens,  80,  82-3 
Garia  el-Garbia,  72 

el-Sergia,  72 
Genoese,  34 
Georgia,  cablegram  from,  120,  121 


2IO 


INDEX 


Ghadames,  14,  135-6 
Gharian  mountains,  135 
Ghat,  oasis  of,  14,  136 
Ghirgaresh,  74,  76 


Jonson,  Arthur,  58 

Journal  at  Consulate,  59,  60,  61, 

62 

Joy  cry,  92 

Gibleh,  63, 119, 167, 181, 183, 185,   Jussuf  (Caramanli  Pasha),  36,  37 
186,  188 

Kaba,  black  stone,  161 
Kafir,  eclipse  made  by,  10 
Kars  el-Gharian,  54 


Gibraltar,  121  ; 
Gimbei,  144 
Goats,  130 
Gold  dust,  134 


Kars  el-  Jebel,  54 


Gorringe,  Lieut.  Com.,  U.  S.  N.,   Kerakish,  77 


73 


Governor  of  Tripoli,  43 

Granada,  30 

Greek  sponge-divers,  48 

Greek  warship  Crete,  150,  205 

Gurgeh  minaret,  188 

Gurgeh,  El-haj  Mustafa,  mosque,   Lakbe,  75,  197 


Keys,  30,  31 

King  of  Morocco  (Abu  Ainan)  34 

Kipling,  20 

Knights  of  Rhodes,  35 

Koran,  21,  47,  155 


159 

Halley,  124 

Harems,  9,  87,  88 

Hearn,  Lafcadiio,  12 

Hejira,  9,  33 

Henna,  97,  105,  106,  134 

Hesperia,  53 

"Hill  of  the  Graces,  "70 

Horns,  72 

Ibn  Tumart,  37 
Imam,  159 

Inscription,  Roman  arch,  69 
Italians,  2,  5,  48,  51,  121 
Ivory,  134 
carvers,  27 

Jamah  Hamed  Pasha,  158 
Janoupoulus,  Lieut.,  183,  190 
Jebel  Gharian,  54 
Jewish  costume,  169 

Rabbis,  2,  149 

Union,  51 
Jews,  5,  48,  115 


Lake  Tchad,  136 

Lanes  and  roads,  74,  84,  195 

Languages,  3,  31 

Leather  decoration,  25,  134 

Lebda  (Leptis  Magna)  33,  72-3 

Leo  Africanus,  76 

Leper,  154 

Leptis  Magna  (Lebda),  32,  35,  72 

Libert,  M.,  79 

Library  at  Consulate,  57 

Lighthouse,  37 

Lion  to  follow,  bird  to  speak,  37 

Louis  XIV,  73 

Malta,  15,  35,  121 
Maltese,  5,  47,  48,  64 
Manchester  prints,  134,  137 
Marabouts,  30,  48,  75,  84,  196 
Marianiste  Brothers,  51 
Marina,  30,  92,  93 
Market,  30 

bread,  37,  134,  137-8 

Tuesday,  129 
Marseilles,  15 
Mecca,  34,  93 


211 


INDEX 


Medina,  34 

Mehdia,  16 

Men  of  war,  149 

Messina,  15 

Metal  workers,  24,  25 

Meteorological   apparatus,  1905, 

5i 

Midrash  of  Talmud,  160 
Minarets,  65 
Misda,  134 
Misrata,  52 
Mohammed,  160,  161 
Mohammed  (cavasse),  205 
Montagu,  Lady  Mary  W.,  57 
Moon's  shadow,  122,  127 
Moorish  decoration,  163 
Moors,  30 
Morocco,  14,  30 
Moslems,  2,  156 
Mosque  (17  domed),  64 
Mosques,  153 
Mosques,  Algeria,  154,  156 
M'  Salata,  72 

Muezzin  call,  65, 124, 159, 188, 203 
Mufta,  155,  1 60,  205 
Music,  141 

Musical  instruments,  141, 142, 143 
Muwah  Hadi  Council,  37 

Naples,  15 
Narghiles,  17 
Nelson,  Admiral,  41 

Oasis,  196 
Oea,  9,  32 
Ostriches,  133 
Ottoman  rule,  7 
Oven,  85 

Palazzo,  Professor,  51 
Pasha,  Castle,  16,  164 

orders,  183 

of  Tripoli,  44,  53,  157,  159,  205 


Pashas,  2 
Patios,  87,  90 
Pender,  Denison,  121 
Philadelphia,  U.  S.  frigate,  40-1 
Phoenician  founding,  9,  32 

navigators,  2 
Pianura  market,  45,  129 
Pillars,  Roman,  68 
Pirates,  35,  39 
Playfair,  Sir  Lambert,  32 
Post  offices,  48 
Potters,  22 
Preble,  40-1 
Punic  language,  33 

Queen's  birthday,  146,  155 

Ramadan,  61,  174 
Redjed  Pasha,  146,  147,  148 
Regio  Tripoli  tana,  71 
Revolution,  American,  39 
Road  of  Whirlwinds,  32 
Roadstead,  149 
Roman  Amphorae,  22 

arch,  154 

inscriptions,  44,  84 
Rome,  2,  7 

"Royal  observatory,"  n,  204 
Rugs,  26 
Ruins  and  relics,  12,  67,  68,  72-3 

Sabrata,  32 
Saddle,  Tuareg,  140 
Sahara,  5,  195,  198 

gateway  to,  38 

transported  to,  145 

winds  of,  132 
S.  Germain-des-Pr£s,  73 
Salisbury  Plain,  71 
Saracenic  wars,  14 
Sardinia,  36 
Savoy,  36 


212 


INDEX 


Sea  Gate  (Bab  el-Bahr),  17 

Senams,  70,  71 

Severus,  Lucius  Septimius,  33 

Sfax,  16 

Shadow  bands,  188,  189 

Shara  Erbat  Saat,  68 

Shara  Shat,  164 

Shirakawa,  Japan,  125 

Sicilians,  48 

SicUy,  15 

Sidi  Dragut  mosque,  159 

Salem,  159 
Sidonians,  72 
Silos,  83 
Sinan,  35 

Singing,  Turkish,  115 
Sisters  of  S.  Vincent,  51 
Skirmish  in  1911,  76 
Smyth,  Admiral,  73 
Soil,  fertility  of,  81 
Sousse,  1 6 
Spanish  fleet,  34 

fortress,  34 

supremacy,  34 
Sponge  boats,  Greek,  17,  30 

divers,  15 
Sponges,  130 
Street  cleaning,  21,  22 

cries,  21,  64 
Streets,  18,  44,  64 
Sudan,  136 
Sudanese,  47,  50,  94, 105, 168, 184 

musicians,  141 
Suez  Canal,  71 
Suk  el-Thalath,  129 
Suk  el-Yahud  el-Hararah,  68 
Sultan  of   Turkey,  36,  45,  141, 

148-9 

Sultana's  tomb,  162,  184 
Synagogue,  85 
Syracuse,  15 
Syrtica  Regio,  32 
Syrtis  Major,  32 


Tajura,  34 
Tarhuna,  72 

mountains,  192 
Technical  School,  51,  52 
Telegraph  and  moon's  shadow, 

121 

Terrace,  Consulate,  87,  119,  175, 

176,  184, 187 
Terraces,  63,  153 
Thoroughfares,  18 
Tirsa,  72,  136 
Tobrook,  14 
Todd,  Prof.  David,  121 
Totality,  1900,  124;  1905,  191 
Trablus  el-Gharb,  9 
Trade,  interior,  137 
Tripoli,  boundaries,  14 

climate,  71 

how  to  reach,  15 
Tripolis,  32 
Triumphal  Arch,  67-8 
Troglodytes,  54 
Tuaregs,  134-5,  138-9,  206 
Tully,  "Narrative,"  57 
Tunis,  14-15 
Tunisia,  rulers  of,  34 
Tunis  road,  74 
Turkey,  2,  36,  42 
Turkish  army,  6 

band,  45,  83,  141,  204 

College,  50,  51 

fortresses,  54 

Government,  38 

man-of-war,  150 

money,  48 

soldiers,  48,  122 

Uadai,  137 

United  States  in  Tripoli,  39 

Valetta,  15 
Vandal,  163 
Vandalism,  73 


2I3 


INDEX 


Vandals,  33 
prey  of,  2 
Vehicles,  58 
Vilayet,  9 

Wadi,  71 
Walls,  28 
Weaving,  24 

nigs,  53 

Wedding,  92,  95 
Wedding,  Jewish- Arab,  113 
Well,  in  desert,  197 


Wells,  75,  80,  81,  197 
Wells  and  antiquities,  21 
Whirling  dervishes,  48 
Windsor,  Royal  Gardens,  73 
Winnowing,  84 
Women,  Jewish,  114 

Maltese,  50 

Mohammedan,  113 

Turkish,  109 

Zellah,  72,  136 
Zoroastrianism  160 


214 


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